Anti-wet sump device

The only non return anti wet sump valve I have had an issue with was one in a C15 AFTER the oil pump on the feedside, in the exact spot that should not cause problems. Well it got stuck, I only noticed as when starting the bike first time, I used clear tubing for the oil lines, the oil went in and then after 2 mins it started reversing and then air came back out along the feed line. I took the engine apart 3 times to find the problem, new pump, new ball and spring etc until I eliminated the valve completely and it finally worked.

The non return in the Commando was fitted 25 years ago, the valve is bespoke with the lightest of springs holding a steel ball against a rubber seat, first start of the day the return is checked for long enough to confirm freshly fed oil is being returned. There is still a risk it will fail during the day but it is a slight risk. One of these days once the queue of work for the Bridgeport is low I will modify the timing cover, but even then I will do the first start of the day check.

acadian said:

nortonspeed said:

the HNW oil tank valve has a larger soft spring and ball pressing against a rubber seating instead of an alloy seating of the former two valves. I have used the HNW oil tank valve now for over 30.000 mls (I also have fitted a pressure gauge)."

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I've looked at the Holland Works oil-tank valve, and believe it's actually a Mick Hemmings product... correct me if I'm wrong.

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Sorry to disappoint you Acadian but the only Hemmings product Holland Norton Works represents are Quaife 5-speed gearbox clusters.

Constant Trossèl
http://www.hollandnortonworks.eu

I seized my bottom end after a Hemmings anti drain valve lost it's prime. They need a solid slug of oil between the pump and the valve, when this tiddles away the pump can't re-prime itself. You will get a return when you fire it up but that is the scavenge side of the pump clearing the crankcases. That might take a few minutes. You think everything is ok and 10 miles later kiss goodbye to £600 of conrod, shells, regrind, gaskets and knuckle skin. Bollocks, drain the crankcases and tip it back into the tank or use your bike more often.

jug said:

I installed a ball valve in my oil feed line. Only forgot to turn it on once "ONCE" destroyed the engine.
JUG

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I think I can safely say there will not be a twice. I do have to ask why you ever put anything between the oil tank and pump?

JimC said:

The best mod for wet sumping is the check ball and timing case mod at the pump OUTPUT, along with "O" rings in the pump. ANYTHING in the pump input is only inviting trouble, like you experienced. If you live in the U.S., AMR does a great job at a very reasonable price.

No need to tell me about all the Gyro Gearloose claptrap I've seen posted here.

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This, +1000. Having done it to my Norton, I can't imagine why ANYONE is fooling around with putting valves and restrictions and safeguards and interlocks in the oil line inputs to the pump.

Lannis

For sure the AMR mod and pump recondition is a good place to start. As to why ANYONE would consider other options, it's probably because this is the result quite often-

As reported above-

"I've had my pump reconditioned and the AMR mod done, bike still sumps. "

Glen