The Magneto Guys Anti-Wet Sumping Valve

We had a customer who fitted a popular version, wired so that it would break the circuit if it moved from the open position, problem was it didn't it only to cook his engine. Thankfully, his engine survived so it could be recovered without any great expenditure. It only broke the circuit when half way to the shut position.
Any person doing such work should have TESTED the operation, FIRST THING at installation.
The above story defines either a layman attempting to play mechanic, OR a "parts changer" , also masqerading as a mechanic.
 
Any person doing such work should have TESTED the operation, FIRST THING at installation.
The above story defines either a layman attempting to play mechanic, OR a "parts changer" , also masqerading as a mechanic.
So someone fitted an ignition cut out as an interlock and didn’t check that the plug didn’t spark at valve closed position. That is stupid.

Putting your trust in a switch to save the engine is not best practice, but not testing it at all really is stupid.
 
Switches do fail, I had one fail on my 03 F350 diesel last week. It's the solenoid that controls the Fuel injection Control Module.
Due to the age and high mileage of the truck ( and high cost of a new truck) I recently replaced several important sensors and one engine switch, but did not get into the solenoid cluster, which is large, maybe 20 or so in total.
Of course the solenoids are just a remotely operated electro magnetic switch with some plain old breaker points doing the switching.
The item that failed has somewhere around 30,000 cycles on it.
The good news for Norton owners using an anti sump valve with switch is that 30,000 cycles means that at you current rate of usage your Norton engine will be safely protected until the year 4312.
The bad news is that parts will be difficult to obtain in 4312 and Jim Comstock will be extremely old and grumpy.

Glen
 
Thanks Britstuff for the picture of your installation--attached is mine that is done the same. The only problem that I had was with the electrical connectors. They were merely tiny screws with very small flat spots on the points that just pressed directly against the wire when tightened--there were no additional clamps to squeeze the wire like I usually see with this type of connector. I had used 18 gauge stranded wire and they would not tighten against that--I had to splice on a short piece of solid wire and then bend it at a slight angle at the end and try to wedge it around the screw while tightening in hopes of making a good solid connection. I finally got this done and tugged real good on the wires, but I'm not real comfortable that they will withstand the vibrations. How did you address this?

View attachment 117955
Nice installation !! It sounds like you need some "Tube" terminals, such as pictured below...


The Magneto Guys Anti-Wet Sumping Valve


Select the correct size and the cable strands pass into the tube, then you can either use some crimping pliers or the terminal screw itself to secure the cable.
 
For engine to be at risk requires two points of failure....tap closed and switch failed in closed circuit position.

I can honestly state I have never forgotten to open the tap in past 6 yrs of riding the Commando, so the ign defeat switch has not performed its failsafe role....but Im sure glad it is thre for when I do forget opening the tap.
 
Let’s not kid ourselves .

We do not put obstructions in a gravity feed or a suction feed. If you disagree you are wrong.

Anyone who has to turn on an oil tap before a ride is a hostage to fortune.
And anyone riding a 50+ year old bike at highway speeds is also such a hostage...disagree and you are wrong...
 
And anyone riding a 50+ year old bike at highway speeds is also such a hostage...disagree and you are wrong...
So use bad engineering to make your bike destroy itself? Not sure I follow that logic.

Highway speeds are getting to be too slow for me these days.
 
Let’s not kid ourselves .

We do not put obstructions in a gravity feed or a suction feed. If you disagree you are wrong.
I'll just have to be wrong along with Phil Irving who put obstructions in the gravity feed lines on every Vincent and also Velocettes.
Actually I believe the Velos may have already had them when he arrived. He just continued on with the practice.


Glen
 
I don't know ride my Norton all year round and regularly I never have a wet sump problem, but laying up your bike for a long winter wouldn't it be wise to do a complete service (oil change and all) after a winter lay up, last year I didn't get much ride time in with the wife eye ops and all but after 5 months the Norton did drop oil into the crank, not all the oil but enough to make it hard to start till I drained the crank, then it fired up on second kick, a few minutes out of my life to drop the oil, so now back to normal regular outings on the Norton and no chance for it to wet sump, the good thing we don't get very cold winters here and our winters are the best time for riding my Norton.
In 49 years of ownership mine has only wet sump 3x still running the original oil pump and has never been rebuilt.

Ashley
 
With my bikes, if left sit all winter, the wetsumpers fill their sumps after a month or so and then they leak all over the floor. They don't leak when the sump is at its normal operational oil level.
For the last few years I've drained them in the fall and pulled the plug wires, plus put a big note on the speedo " No oil"
That works.
I only have one with a valve and it's nice, no leaks, no extra draining required, just like a modern bike.
Any which way is fine with me, put a valve with interlock on, or don't put one one and drain the sump after it fills, or drain it for winter, or ride the bike often and keep it pumped out that way.
It always surprises me that the folks who have never installed or used a valve with interlock get so annoyed with those of us who do use them without problem.

Glen
 
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