Feked anti-wet sump valve and switch

gforce said:

I thought of using a relay, as mentioned by @Peter R but decided against it, as I didn't like the idea of relying on a minature relay coil being energised to power my ignition circuit - just seemed like another point of failure and needless complexity to me.

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The Feked valve is available for mag and coil ignition.
The switch for the mag type is open when the vale is in open position, and the ignition is powered via the contact of the relay when in rest.
When the valve is closed the micro switch on the valve closes, and relay is energized, and the power to the ignition circuit is interrupted.

@Peter R the two units they sell are the same - the CNC machined switch holder is simply indexed on the hex part of the valve to put the switch in a different place.

The only reason you can order against two different part numbers is because they do this for you when it is sent out.

Just ride the bike more and it won't wet sump and if you let the bike sit for sometime between rides then having the bike wet sump keeps everything lube down below, better than any anti sump valve.

gforce said:

@Peter R the two units they sell are the same - the CNC machined switch holder is simply indexed on the hex part of the valve to put the switch in a different place.

The only reason you can order against two different part numbers is because they do this for you when it is sent out.

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Mechanically identical indeed, but the switch in the coil ignition type is normal closed ( with valve in open position)
The switch on the mag type is normal open ( with valve in open position)

Peter R said:

Mechanically identical indeed, but the switch in the coil ignition type is normal closed ( with valve in open position)
The switch on the mag type is normal open ( with valve in open position)

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So the mag version is what is required, if you wish to wire it to trigger the horn?

If you want real belt and braces use a switch over (n/c n/o) micro switch, then you can have an audible warning and an ignition cutout.

@Peter R the switches are the same - push-to-break (or normally closed).
I asked Feked, and they told me just to index the switch carrier by one flat.

If you know better than they do, you need to hurry up and put them in the picture, as what they are telling people is clearly wrong.


The Magneto version

• switch is pressed in when the tap is open (oil can flow) - the magneto is not earthed, and the engine can run.
• switch is not pressed in when the tap is closed (oil can not flow) - earthing the mag, and cutting the engine.

The Coil version

• switch is not pressed in when the tap is open (oil can flow) - completing the negative connection to the electronic ignition allowing engine to run.
• switch is pressed when the tap is closed (oil can not flow) - breaking the negative connection to the electronic ignition stopping the engine from running.

so how many engines have we now lost because of these valves? it takes 5 mins to drain the sump and refill the oil tank. way safer than an anti valve, as long as you put the drain plug back in...

@850commando not what was being asked in this thread, and it's been discussed to death elsewhere.

In my opinion, a valve like this with an ignition circuit interlock (or horn, as I am moving to) is in my view by far the safest option for those (like me) that don't want to drain the crankcase prior to every ride.

I cannot physically kick over a wetsumped bike and I don't want to be crawling around on my hands and knees before I go for a ride.

For those that don't like the idea, don't fit one - it's simple!

850commando said:

so how many engines have we now lost because of these valves? it takes 5 mins to drain the sump and refill the oil tank. way safer than an anti valve, as long as you put the drain plug back in...

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Please either cite a proven instance of an ignition interlock oil valve failure ruining an engine or stop crying wolf.

me skeered o them

lazyeye6 said:

Please either cite a proven instance of an ignition interlock oil valve failure ruining an engine or stop crying wolf.

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start here, then search the site some more,

850commando said:

so how many engines have we now lost because of these valves? it takes 5 mins to drain the sump and refill the oil tank. way safer than an anti valve, as long as you put the drain plug back in...

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Zero engines lost on this type valve.
You might be thinking of a different item, the spring loaded auto valve.

Glen

850commando said:

start here, then search the site some more,

Blown engine (19/8/2018 update)

The valve will be going in the bin, and if it does get rebuilt i will be fitting an oil pressure indicator of some sort. You say "if it does get rebuilt". I say get a large bottle of Blue Heron Vodka, a large jar of Queen Olives stuffed with either blue cheese or garlic, and then sit back and...

www.accessnorton.com

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And the last page of that thread
"
The actual issue, I will probably never find out, so I've stopped guessing.
I felt it important to update the thread as so many are left with missing endings."

worntorn said:

Zero engines lost on this type valve.
You might be thinking of a different item, the spring loaded auto valve.

Glen

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I'm sure that's right. It's why I removed my automatic sprung ball valve version. An earlier thread had a quite shocking video showing how the auto valves take some time to open and impede flow. Significantly inferior to the manual / Feked version. But, when I came to fit the Feked valve, what struck me was how much smaller it makes the feed line. I've no idea whether that impacts at all upon the efficiency of the oiling system, especially as it is possibly no narrower than the bore of the tank outlet and case inlet the feed pipe clamps over. But, there is a length between the valve and the oil pump that could drain down. Anyway, I figured, I will give the oil pump every chance, by introducing no opportunity for a restriction. Instead, i'll learn more about the rate of sumping with my bike and how best to cope with sumping instead.

I know many will have ridden for years with no problem, so I'm being cautious, quite probably overly so.. I may fit the Feked valve in future, if I find the sumping a pain. I like the horn idea, so I don't introduce a new failure point into the ignition. Judging by the number of times I set off without turning my fuel tap on, I'd be testing my horn regularly!

lazyeye6 said:

Please either cite a proven instance of an ignition interlock oil valve failure ruining an engine or stop crying wolf.

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Ok you win.

Good luck!

Triton Thrasher said:

Ok you win.

Good luck!

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not trying to be an as$, but basic fluid flow principles apply and any restriction even a slight reduction of line size will imped the flow to the oil pump. we could go a step further and and improve the flow if we could get nice smooth teflon lined hose

850commando said:

not trying to be an as$, but basic fluid flow principles apply and any restriction even a slight reduction of line size will imped the flow to the oil pump.

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And what about the oilway drillings in the crankcase?

There are 3/8" thru interlock valves available if concerned about a short bit at 5/16".
I made my interlock valve 3/8" right thru.


Glen

L.A.B. said:

And what about the oilway drillings in the crankcase?

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Take the point, but after the pump, any step down would serve to increase pressure on the pump outputs and slow down drain rates on the returns? Restrictions before the pump would reduce pressure/flow into the system. There were occasions (with a sprung ball valve) when I needed to wait 15 mins to take an oil tank level reading, due to the air in my oil (froth). Noticeably absent since removing the valve. I think the tank side restriction might have introduced something like cavitation at the pump. 'Might'.

As I said, the Feked valve looks much superior to the sprung ball version and it may not affect supply to the pump at all, as it may not be any more restrictive than the tank outlet or case inlet points anyway. I was [over-]thinking out loud, dangerous around motor oil topics!