easy wet sump solution ?

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I just put a ball valve on my oil line and what I have done is drill a hole in the handle of the valve, put a key ring through it then connect a clip with a red cord on it, I have a folding kickstart so with the cord around the kickstart I can't fold it out to kick it with the clip and cord trick, I can also carry this in my pocket when I park, I won't be turning my oil off when parked but good idea to put the clip on if some smart arse turns it off on me, but that won't happen as I never park anywhere without eye sight, I don't run a battery on my Norton so a warning alam no good to me.

Ashley
 
toppy said:
I have a valve in feed line from John Epp it has a built in switch which is wired up such that there will be no sparks if I forget to turn it on. So no worries of forgetting or wet sumping an no messi about just turn valve as you reach for kickstart lever.
Toppy, I've done a search of the forum posts but somehow not been able to locate John Epp.

Could you direct me to his contact info. Thank you in advance.

Regards, Alan Coles
 
AlanColes said:
toppy said:
I have a valve in feed line from John Epp it has a built in switch which is wired up such that there will be no sparks if I forget to turn it on. So no worries of forgetting or wet sumping an no messi about just turn valve as you reach for kickstart lever.
Toppy, I've done a search of the forum posts but somehow not been able to locate John Epp.

Could you direct me to his contact info. Thank you in advance.

Regards, Alan Coles


Try emailing him on...
ironjohnmetal@gmail. com
thats how i got hold of him but that was 2 years ago so may have changed email address. If i remember i just put his name in Google an followed a few links that came back.
 
Maybe I'm ignorant, but what is the problem with wet sumping? Both my Norton and Rickman Honda wet sump - just a nice easy idle and warmup when first starting - which everyone should do - and the oil just pumps back to the tank. No Problem. The solution of a valve seems more of a problem than what really exists.
 
Here's an interesting solution I'm considering for my bike. It's an electrically operated solenoid valve you could put inline from the oil tank, and wire the solenoid into switched power, so that the valve would open automatically every time you turn on the key. No way to forget to turn it on. I got the idea when thinking about the electric solenoid petcock on my Moto Guzzi, and found this on eBay for $11. I've ordered 2 to have a spare, and I DO have an auxiliary oil pressure gauge to monitor against valve failure:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-4-DC1..._Merchandise&var=&hash=item35de387853&vxp=mtr

easy wet sump solution ?


I've seen this same or similar valve for sale in other locations, including one Canadian eBay listing asking $37 for the same valve. Oh, and presumably it is MUCH smaller than the picture shown above, at 1/4" inlet/outlet
 
petejohno said:
Maybe I'm ignorant, but what is the problem with wet sumping? Both my Norton and Rickman Honda wet sump - just a nice easy idle and warmup when first starting - which everyone should do - and the oil just pumps back to the tank. No Problem. The solution of a valve seems more of a problem than what really exists.
.
Others here know much better than I, and I stand ready willing and able to be corrected, but from my basic understanding of things, the issue for me with wet-sumping mostly revolves around oil delivery time.

Start-up of any engine contributes to a significant portion of that engines wear (in relation to the time involved). This is due to several factors, but the two that I am most aware of are:
1 - Length of time until a flow of oil is delivered to rotating parts creates wear due to increased friction.
2 - Time to achieve normal operating temperature. The increased tolerances generate additional wear until they disappear once up to temp. (nothing to due with wet-sumping)

If I understand things correctly:

A) an engine that is designed to operate in a dry-sump configuration such as the Norton and most race engines, delivers the oil from the oil tank (dry sump) to the oil pump which delivers it to the engine with the most critical start-up areas receiving the oil first.

B) a wet-sump engine is designed to deliver oil from the oil-pan (sump) to the oil-pump.

Therefore, if a dry-sump design ends up wet-sumping (just during down-time), than the oil has a much longer path to travel before it gets to the oil pump where it can be distributed to the rockets etc., as needed.

It is this delay that will significantly increase the wear and load on parts.

I have seen the results of studies on measuring the time lag from start-up until oil delivery to the vital parts in the head and reducing that time in a properly working oil delivery system is important, and is a major reason for multi-grade oil. One of the big benefits of multi-grade oil is that a 20w-50 flows as fast as a 20w at startup rather than like a 50w so that the lubrication gets to vital areas as quickly as possible.
 
AlanColes said:
Start-up of any engine contributes to a significant portion of that engines wear (in relation to the time involved). This is due to several factors, but the two that I am most aware of are:
1 - Length of time until a flow of oil is delivered to rotating parts creates wear due to increased friction.
2 - Time to achieve normal operating temperature. The increased tolerances generate additional wear until they disappear once up to temp. (nothing to due with wet-sumping)

If I understand things correctly:

A) an engine that is designed to operate in a dry-sump configuration such as the Norton and most race engines, delivers the oil from the oil tank (dry sump) to the oil pump which delivers it to the engine with the most critical start-up areas receiving the oil first.

B) a wet-sump engine is designed to deliver oil from the oil-pan (sump) to the oil-pump.

Therefore, if a dry-sump design ends up wet-sumping (just during down-time), than the oil has a much longer path to travel before it gets to the oil pump where it can be distributed to the rockets etc., as needed.

It is this delay that will significantly increase the wear and load on parts.

I have seen the results of studies on measuring the time lag from start-up until oil delivery to the vital parts in the head and reducing that time in a properly working oil delivery system is important, and is a major reason for multi-grade oil. One of the big benefits of multi-grade oil is that a 20w-50 flows as fast as a 20w at startup rather than like a 50w so that the lubrication gets to vital areas as quickly as possible.

This argument will confuse the anti-wet-sump-valve hater :twisted:
 
Duh * its mainly the cam/lifters that scuff at start up and low speeds so my reasoning is a cerntain amount of wet sump to instantly splash lobes before the ZADP nano layer gets wiped off is desirable. I don't know but think if all the oil ends up in cases there's still enough oil in crank to sling out for the big ends protection til a few seconds later oil from tank being fed full force as rest of wet sump empties. If a factory Combat or a comnoz style low down sump vents the first piston disent will send a slug of oil back to the tank rather faster than can be pumped out or of tank or pumped back out of cases. Yoose guys with pressure guages, How long does it take for the needle to move after kick off? On this subject how long before its best to hit cam surfing rpm? Before or after wet sump cleared? This can take a couple dozen seconds or more below 2grand. Its the function of ZADP to protect on start ups and shut downs and idle times below cam surfing and of course low oil pressure from turns that uncover the tank drain, not much a Commando issue. Most thoughtful solution I've seen was a tap in TS cover that set wet sump level by over flow into catch can then drain closed and can added back, if significant. Not likely to forget to close the obvious leak at hand but can imagine forgetingaboutit til trying to lean a fast corner.
 
AlanColes said:
Therefore, if a dry-sump design ends up wet-sumping (just during down-time), than the oil has a much longer path to travel before it gets to the oil pump where it can be distributed to the rockets etc., as needed.

Yes, it will take quite a few minutes longer before the oil is drained into a suitable container and put into the oil tank again. :mrgreen:

Honestly: If wet-sumping is an matter of days the pump needs a rebuild. If the pump is rebuild and wet-sumping is still an issue then the intervals between two rides are too big. In this case I would recommend to convert to common race engine practise: Empty the oil tank after each ride and refill it. That takes a few minutes before and after and with a little bit of common sense - okay, too much of this might hinder enjoying Nortons in the first place.... :wink: - it can be turned into a normal routine. None of our mechanics is complaining about this job, it's just part of the start-up and finishing schemes.

Any anti-drain device is nothing more than symptom fighting plus it gives a long lever for Murphy to work on.



Tim
 
Right.
Except Norton recognized that it was an annoying problem to leave owners with and fitted an anti-drain device to their last Commando, MK3. It even works, to some degree.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
Except Norton recognized that it was an annoying problem to leave owners with and fitted an anti-drain device to their last Commando, MK3.

Take a closer look on which side of the pump the MkIII valve is situated. :roll:

It even works, to some degree.

It doesn't close the path through the gears.



Tim
 
nortonspeed said:
This argument will confuse the anti-wet-sump-valve hater :twisted:
I don't think it should, unless they just want to hate.

I'm not suggesting that a valve is or isn't the answer, just that oil delivery is important, especially avoiding delays in delivery time at start-up.

I've not made any suggestions in my post above, but don't mind wading into the fray with my very limited knowledge - certainly hasn't stopped many, many others in the past. :lol:

My original '73 Commando never had a problem with wet-sumping so fortunately, I never had to deal with it back in 73-76. So, why do we have this issue now? I don't know, but the opinion that a worn oil pump is the cause would seem to make some sense and, if that is the case, it would be pretty short-sighted to install a valve rather than fix the problem. After-all, one would think a worn oil pump would have a reduced ability to circulate it's designed volume. I don't know how much of a reduction would occur, nor do I know how much of a safety margin was built into the design for a properly working pump, but those are concerns that I would have.

Whenever one treats the symptom rather than the cause (outside of a triage situation) they run the risk of finding that they have stuck their head in the sand and when they pull it out - there are often bigger problems than when they put it in.

To me a valve might be a reasonable answer, but only if I felt comfortable that the worn pump (if that were the culprit) was circulating sufficient oil.

However, there are a few things that would be absolute musts for me, as it doesn't make sense to make things less reliable and go backwards.

1) Whatever is used, it's "fail mode" must not result in - no delivery of oil - it's fail mode should be wet-sumping (far less dangerous than no oil delivery at all)
2) The system must be simple to use (or it might not always be used)
3) It has to be automatic or virtually automatic and have real safe-guards built-in (everyone gets distracted)

hobot said:
Duh * its mainly the cam/lifters that scuff at start up and low speeds so my reasoning is a cerntain amount of wet sump to instantly splash lobes before the ZADP nano layer gets wiped off is desirable. I don't know but think if all the oil ends up in cases there's still enough oil in crank to sling out for the big ends protection til a few seconds later oil from tank being fed full force as rest of wet sump empties. If a factory Combat or a comnoz style low down sump vents the first piston disent will send a slug of oil back to the tank rather faster than can be pumped out or of tank or pumped back out of cases. Yoose guys with pressure guages, How long does it take for the needle to move after kick off? On this subject how long before its best to hit cam surfing rpm? Before or after wet sump cleared? This can take a couple dozen seconds or more below 2grand. Its the function of ZADP to protect on start ups and shut downs and idle times below cam surfing and of course low oil pressure from turns that uncover the tank drain, not much a Commando issue. Most thoughtful solution I've seen was a tap in TS cover that set wet sump level by over flow into catch can then drain closed and can added back, if significant. Not likely to forget to close the obvious leak at hand but can imagine forgetingaboutit til trying to lean a fast corner.
I agree hobot, ZDDP gives great protection and the very low revs help significantly, however:
- First, one has to be using a ZDDP high oil to really benefit and
- Second, and most important, I am at all not sure that it is anywhere near an "instantly splash lobes" situation.
My feeling/concern is that there is way too long a gap in delivery time to be healthy.

Remember that the system is designed to deliver oil to the valve-train first specifically because it is important and vulnerable. A "wet-sumped" dry-sump system virtually reverses this and delivers oil to the valve-train last. Not only that, I also have a concern that the cavitation that occurs from the wet-sumping only exacerbates the situation as that means, not only is the valve-train the last to get oiled but it is then receiving the greatest concentration of cavitated oil. Not good at all. Remember, there would be virtually no oil btween the return area up to the tank and down to the pump. That means that entire volume of air will be pumped until there is oil. I don't think there is anywhere prior to the valve-train for the air to escape from the oil system. So for me, the delay in delivery time of any oil compounded by the additional delay until non-cavitated oil is delivered is of concern.

+1, +1 Tim - the fact that it was a Norton design doesn't make it right or beneficial, just makes it OE.

lwmcd1 said:
Would resurfacing the oil pump help? Isn't a worn pump the main cause of sumping?
That is my question/concern. It would certainly appear to be the culprit and therefore I would only avoid rectifying that situation if I felt comfortable that the compromised pump was a) originally over-designed sufficiently to still deliver enough oil to be safe, and b) had a way of verifying and monitoring.

Isn't it less expensive and simpler to rebuild an oil pump than install the valve and oil-flow rate monitoring and then have to constantly monitor it? Installing the valve does not increase a reduced oil flow from the pump, it only eliminates the lag-time caused by a worn pump. That could, perhaps, be equally or even more dangerous.

Identify and fix the cause, not the symptom.
 
Tintin said:
worntorn said:
Except Norton recognized that it was an annoying problem to leave owners with and fitted an anti-drain device to their last Commando, MK3.

Take a closer look on which side of the pump the MkIII valve is situated. :roll:

It even works, to some degree.

It doesn't close the path through the gears.



Tim

I understand this, however my point is to your comments and comments by others that in essence say that anitsumping is a silly non issue. If it were a non issue, then why did the manufacturers attempt to deal with it?

Alan asked why wet sumping seems to occur now more so than in the seventies. I think it is because many of us have more than one bike plus other 4 wheeled transport vs back in the day when for many the bike was the only vehicle.
The bikes just sit too much now.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
If it were a non issue, then why did the manufacturers attempt to deal with it?

Let me put it this way: It is an issue that has to be dealt with in general. Im my work life it means that the engines I work on are usually not left alone with a full oil tank. Actually this is a subject which has to be considered as soon as "parc fermé" conditions play a role.

One way to deal with this is to empty the oil tank. In some formulae this is allowed, in others it's not. I recently worked on an engine which runs in a category where the cars are left in PF overnight and must be able to start under their own power with minimum attendance from mechs and engs (in F1 you need two mechs and three engs to even fire that thing up and putting the oil in was part of the routine when I worked on F1 engines) . The oil feed and pump design would lead to a huge amount of wet-sumping. Guess what, an anti-drain valve was included.

The thing is - it was included on the pressure side of the pump. Exactly where the factory put it on the MkIII and where the AMR mod puts it.

So, to be more precise: In my experience wet-sumping was a non-issue when the bike was regularly used and kicked into TDC. If wet-sumping is an issue any kind of any-drain valve should go on the pressure side. Any kind of obstruction on the feed is an engineering no-go.


Tim
 
I am not sure of much but I am sure that I will never start my 650 without full oil supply to the pump. There is no way around it, the ignition key needed to start the bike is stuck in the valve.
Doesn't matter whether someone else approves of it or declares it a "no go", it works for me. Most importantly I enjoy the bike more because I can hop on it and go without draining/refilling oil etc plus it isn't pissing out oil on my shop floor when parked for a month or so. That's all it's really about for most of us, just getting some fun out of these old machines and aging bodies.


Glen
 
worntorn said:
I am not sure of much but I am sure that I will never start my 650 without full oil supply to the pump. There is no way around it, the ignition key needed to start the bike is stuck in the valve.
Doesn't matter whether someone else approves of it or declares it a "no go", it works for me. Most importantly I enjoy the bike more because I can hop on it and go without draining/refilling oil etc plus it isn't pissing out oil on my shop floor when parked for a month or so. That's all it's really about for most of us, just getting some fun out of these old machines and aging bodies.


Glen

If you have an inline shutoff valve you don't always have a full oil supply to the pump. Depending on how fast the pump wet sumps and how long the bike has not been running, there may be a complete lack of oil in the line from the shutoff valve to the pump intake. Whereas, a valve on the output side of the pump insures the pump will be primed, regardless how fast it wet sumps or how long the bike sits without running. I would not be very comfortable parking my bike in public with the ignition key available to anyone.
 
JimC said:
worntorn said:
I am not sure of much but I am sure that I will never start my 650 without full oil supply to the pump. There is no way around it, the ignition key needed to start the bike is stuck in the valve.
Doesn't matter whether someone else approves of it or declares it a "no go", it works for me. Most importantly I enjoy the bike more because I can hop on it and go without draining/refilling oil etc plus it isn't pissing out oil on my shop floor when parked for a month or so. That's all it's really about for most of us, just getting some fun out of these old machines and aging bodies.


Glen

If you have an inline shutoff valve you don't always have a full oil supply to the pump. Depending on how fast the pump wet sumps and how long the bike has not been running, there may be a complete lack of oil in the line from the shutoff valve to the pump intake. Whereas, a valve on the output side of the pump insures the pump will be primed, regardless how fast it wet sumps or how long the bike sits without running. I would not be very comfortable parking my bike in public with the ignition key available to anyone.


The key isn't available to anyone when the bike is parked, it is in my pocket, same as before.
I have always checked for oil flow when cold starting and there is no difference in lag time until return flow shows up with the valve fitted. It's almost instant, same as before.

Glen
 
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