easy wet sump solution ?

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All Commandos have the same sump side of oil pump returning oil to tanks while only the Cream of the Commando Crop has an even bigger better faster secondary return route via low rear case breather hose that gets both the crank sling windage backwards plus ring blow by pressure forcing a pencil thick jet back to tank as needed. Do not rev up a wet sumped Combat into cam break in range with oil cap off or expect to clean ceiling too unless in tool shed or under shade tree ya just move out from under the drips.
 
Cream of the Commando crop?

surely you are joking?

the one model that caused the most headaches, warranty claims, and retrofits of all?

emphasis on stock Combats in the early 70s, not nicely re engineered ones today of course!

but why the need to feel what the model one happens to own is somehow the "best"?

Phil Yates goes on and one how the Mark3 model that he owns is surely the best of all...

while the 850 guys can say that their models have many improvements including strengthened swing arms
and more securely thru bolted cylinders, etc

and the 1973 standard 750 owners can claim their particular builds were the best of the 750 line having a number of the 73 850 factory improvements

all the crowing about mine is best.....seems kinda juvenile doesn't it? We all love them all.
 
Yep not calling anyone names just praising the poison toad that essentially put Norton so far behind it hastened the end of them making bikes the public could afford. Any thing ya can say good about other Commandos, easy starts nice tame yet spunky low down behavior and ease of steering stem angle with decent brake plus lack of complexity of clutter of signals or after thought breather hose routing etc, its my pick of the 'runt' of the litter. Ya already know I have a rather low opinion of any isolastic Commando, Combats included as about most dangerous low performance poor handling fragile compared to about everything that came after, but the one brewing in my living room. Always fun to argue with Ford or Chevy or Mopar guys but nothing like a close family brand argument to get upset over.
 
Nigeldtr said:
My commando bottom end was ruined by the PO using a velocette type valve, may be great for roller big ends but totally deadly for a hot commando engine on tick over with plain bearings! Anyone using these is terminating his engine
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I tried a Velocette type inline valve. Fortunately, I was running an oil pressure gauge. Zero at idle with hot oil. Even cut a few turns out of the spring. Still zero at idle with hot oil. This was with a new oil pump. Never again will I put anything between the tank and pump intake, including those Gryo Gearloose gadgets that have gonna' fail switches in them. Send the timing cover and pump to AMR. No wet sump, no worries.

Gyro Gearloose

easy wet sump solution ?
 
I think the only safe way is a shut-off valve with an ignition interlock incorporated, (like what I've got!) :D

Dave.
 
daveparry said:
I think the only safe way is a shut-off valve with an ignition interlock incorporated, (like what I've got!) :D

Dave.
Click to expand...

Any time you put something in the oil line between the tank and pump input you run a risk of oil starvation and disastrous consequences. I'd consider that a far less than only safe way. The AMR mod is a small spring loaded ball closing the output when there is no oil pressure. This mod is already incorporated on the MKIII. If it were to somehow fail the worst case would be a wet sumped engine.

If you are running an oil intake inline valve of any sort and you do not have an oil pressure indicator, you are playing Russian Roulette with your engine.
 
I do have a car type oil pressure switch which would bring a light on at around 3-5 lbs. I can understand your concerns re spring loaded ball valves in the inlet but I can't see a shut-off valve ever failing, after all when open it's just a plain hole!

Dave.
 
yes - i had one stick in my commando and drove probably about 5 minutes with no oil flow - fortunately i caught it before the engine was ruined (was lucky i caught it as i was checking my battery after stopping for gas )

i actually had another one split (there was a recall of them for this problem) and pour oil all over the floor - fortunately i was in the garage when it let loose

i'll never use one and won't never recommend them in any bike

baz said:
has anyone on here had first hand experience of an anti wet sump valve go wrong? i have been using them on nortons and other british bikes for over 25 years never had a problem they were fitted as standard on velocettes i believe
Click to expand...
 
olChris said:
stu said:
Hi Lab

i just got the oil up onto the low level mark kicking over, plugs in, maybe 5 minutes tops ? Its pretty thick cold oil though. Just wondered if there are any issues to doing this as a quick fix for start up once in a while ?
Click to expand...

No real issues, but..............

easy wet sump solution ?
Click to expand...

All pre MkIII owners look like this Chris. And even some MkIII owners who know not what that green button is for.
Measure the left leg against the right leg.
 
hobot said:
All Commandos have the same sump side of oil pump returning oil to tanks while only the Cream of the Commando Crop has an even bigger better faster secondary return route via low rear case breather hose that gets both the crank sling windage backwards plus ring blow by pressure forcing a pencil thick jet back to tank as needed. Do not rev up a wet sumped Combat into cam break in range with oil cap off or expect to clean ceiling too unless in tool shed or under shade tree ya just move out from under the drips.
Click to expand...

Cream of the Commando Crop?
Spill the beans, you have just bought a MkIII, yes?
 
Drain the oil out of the oil tank into a container such as an old milk jug after each ride. Nothing in the oil tank to wet sump then. You can filter the oil through a coffee filter before every ride as an added bonus.
 
Issue with that cleaver suggestion implies you ain't changed oil in your Commando yet as rather more work to set up oil tank drain over just puling plug to drain into pan back into tank. Sucking oil out of tank seems better thinking lazy man's solution. Peels solution was a combo sight tube and drain tube so just a glance to see if enough oil to start ok and then just lower tube into a jug to cleanly empty tank unattended.
 
illf8ed said:
You can filter the oil through a coffee filter before every ride as an added bonus.
Click to expand...

Needles operation as drained oil from the oil tank just past a coffee filter namely the spin on oil filter :wink:
In case you don't have one fitted (early Commando): fit one as soon as possible :!:
 
I put 13K miles on my 750 with no filter and everything was still good. I put one on recently anyhow.

It wouldn't be hard to put a 'T' off the feed line to drain it if that was your solution. I'd spill it on the garage floor anyhow. I use my ball valve to drain the tank during changes. Does make it easier. I used to take off the block behind the timing cover, mind you I have the central oil tank so there's no good drain, but sucking it out is an option.
 
Nigeldtr said:
My commando bottom end was ruined by the PO using a velocette type valve, may be great for roller big ends but totally deadly for a hot commando engine on tick over with plain bearings! Anyone using these is terminating his engine
Click to expand...


So did you forget to prime the oil pump :?:
Did you not use clear oil proof plastic pipe so you could check by eye if there was any oil below the valve :?:
Did you ensure that there was no air leaks below the valve that allowed the oil to drain out on its own :?:


Any ex Velo owner will tell you all about these precautions :!: :shock:
 
nortonspeed said:
In case you don't have one fitted (early Commando): fit one as soon as possible :!:
Click to expand...

42 years of operation (72 Combat) without either a filter or a magnet would seem to argue that a filter is not required.
Changing the oil regularly is another matter. :mrgreen:
 
tomspro said:
nortonspeed said:
In case you don't have one fitted (early Commando): fit one as soon as possible :!:
Click to expand...

42 years of operation (72 Combat) without either a filter or a magnet would seem to argue that a filter is not required.
Changing the oil regularly is another matter. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Very true, it is also possible to ride 50k miles without changing your oil. Guess what is best for your engine :wink:
 
Very true. The trouble with, "I ran so many years without a failure" is you are talking go or no go. Unless you do a tear down you have no idea how close to failure you may be.
 
Studies show that off the shelf oil filters only filter stuff that can block oil passages not really filter friction size particles that form sludge in trap but only so much till flow path to rods is more stream lined. Would never need to change oil if just dumping wet sump and topping off with fresh oil a few oz at a time. Look up ByPass filers if really concerned about gritty friction wear reduction. On Peel could tap a small tube into cases and pressurize till oil pushed out then close tap and start up w/o as much kicker resistance.
 
JimC said:
Very true. The trouble with, "I ran so many years without a failure" is you are talking go or no go. Unless you do a tear down you have no idea how close to failure you may be.
Click to expand...

With no smoke coming out the pipes, compression of 150 in both cylinders, running strong and smooth, I am not going to lose sleep over a sudden 'failure' because I do not have an oil filter.
[sorry for the slight hijack - not intentional]
 
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