pazon timing and Madass (Don Pender) Carb Linkage Kit with choke - ???

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baz said:
Have you tried removing the plug caps to see what spark you are getting off the end of the HT leads?
Should be a very good blue spark
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just did that - good strong spark mostly bluish white - probably jumped about a quarter inch. now i'm thinking the spark is not the issue.
 
baz said:
Not heard of that type of HT lead but sounds fine
But with a bpr plug as others have said and I'm sure you know
You need unsuppreesed spark plug caps
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spark plug caps are part of the HT lead, and pretty sure they are unsuppressed.
 
i'm thinking i might look into putting the single mikuni carb back on the engine. I've run out of ideas with the current setup.
 
joe czech said:
spark plug caps are part of the HT lead, and pretty sure they are unsuppressed.
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If that's the case I'd try changing the leads or change to unsuppressed spark plugs to be sure
 
joe czech said:
i'm thinking i might look into putting the single mikuni carb back on the engine. I've run out of ideas with the current setup.
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have you taken a control that you have joined right the white/black and yellow/white wires from Pazon black box to the trigger plate and that this wires are not in a reverse sides?
The coil that you use for red wires from Pazon goes then to ground (better on the harness than frame)?.
Ciao
Piero
 
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joe czech said:
plugs are NGK's BPR7ES gap at .025 inch. plug wires were new with the bike - moroso blue max, 8mm spiral core, EMI suppression, 800 ohm. they seem a bit long, but they are not touching any mounting hardware, I was careful on the routing.

carb mounting - fairly sure I have no air leaks, and I didn't over-tightened anything - head insulator or gasket and an o-ring on the carb. balance tube is new, so i'm assuming there are no holes or leaks.

as I recall, the pazon instructions spec'd old school copper core plugs and copper wires with a 5K ohm cap. could the NGK's and moroso wires be the issue? like I said, my spark seems a bit weak. my gear head neighbor also noted that
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You have resistor plugs and resistor wires - shouldn't have both. Still, I doubt that would cause it not to fire.
 
joe czech said:
no, the pazon system didn't come with coils. when I got the bike, there were two, new, 6v lucas STYLE coils that I installed. they ohm'd out at around 1.7 each.
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You said new harness - hopefully, you left out the ballast resistor.
 
joe czech said:
i'm thinking i might look into putting the single mikuni carb back on the engine. I've run out of ideas with the current setup.
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The single mikuni would be a good tuning tool
But remember full choke and don't touch the throttle
As a footnote my commando always starts better on twin Amals than it did on a single mikuni
 
One more thing. A Commando needs an engine ground, not a chassis ground like the Pazon installation instructions show. Chassis ground is OK, but there must be a good engine ground to the red wires.
 
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joe czech said:
update - reset the timing to 33° BTDC, a couple squirts of gas in each cylinder and nothing. reset the timing to 30-31° and tried again - nothing. beginning to think I have other issues. anyway, the foot and knee are killing me today - need to knock it off for a while.

pazon timing and Madass (Don Pender) Carb Linkage Kit with choke - ???
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That's a very nice looking ride.
Good luck with your endeaver.
I'm sure you'll get it.
 
joe czech said:
original carbs - i'm thinking the main jets are 220, needle position - middle, throttle valve 3-1/2, not sure on the needle jet and needle. they tickle in a couple seconds
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The main jets on a 74 Commando should be 260 not 220, if you been kicking so many times and it hasn't fired your plugs should be very wet, if they aren't wet from all the kicking then you have a fuel problem, if that's the case I be pulling the carbies off and going through them even putting a carbie kit with new jets, needles and float needles and if the carbies have been sitting its easy for all pilot holes to be blocked and if the timing is close it still should make some sort of noise trying to fire.
Static timing should be close enough for it to fire on one or two kicks and I say its more a fuel problem the carbies will still tickle but still don't mean the fuel is getting to the cylinders and by having dry plugs is a good sign you aren't getting fuel.
I am not a fan of NGK plugs and 43 years my Norton has always ran better with Champion N7YC plugs and I have tried other brands but always went back to the Champions.
Its not a hard job going through the Amal carbs they are a simple carb.

Ashley
 
never had a problem with NGK plugs. the only reason i changed out the last set with 40,000 plus miles was they was getting rusty
 
OK guys, lots to reply. with the new harness, and because of the EI no ballast resistor, no condensers, etc. I did add an additional and seperate engine ground wire (14AWG). pretty sure I don't have a grounding issue, but I will double check tomorrow. per marshg246, i'll zip down to the parts store, and see it they have a couple copper core, unsuppressed plugs - hopefully I can find champions. on the EI wiring -- yes, careful on the yellow/black, white/black wiring thing. confident that the pazon is wired correctly because I can run the self test (shorting the yellow/black and white/black wires together) and firing the plugs. right now, i'm thinking the ignition circuit is good, and I've exhausted any issues with the timing, so, the only thing left is looking into the carbs. the originals were in the parts boxes, and I just assumed needles and jets are correctly spec'd. I was careful on the rebuild, and even a little on the anal side. the ashman brought up some good points. might as well throw in some new and correct needles and jets. I prefer to keep the twin amals, so i'll exhaust all carb issues before going back to the mikuni.
 
bill said:
never had a problem with NGK plugs. the only reason i changed out the last set with 40,000 plus miles was they was getting rusty
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bill - enjoyed the phone call today - hopefully we can hook up at nortona in march. anyway, looking forward to the event.
 
ashman said:
The main jets on a 74 Commando should be 260 not 220, if you been kicking so many times and it hasn't fired your plugs should be very wet, if they aren't wet from all the kicking then you have a fuel problem, if that's the case I be pulling the carbies off and going through them even putting a carbie kit with new jets, needles and float needles and if the carbies have been sitting its easy for all pilot holes to be blocked and if the timing is close it still should make some sort of noise trying to fire.
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Basically agree with you, but a 74 Commando could have 220, 230, or 260 main jets depending on subtype and when built. At any rate, the main jet has very little to do with starting the bike. Actually, none of the jets have much to do with it - the pilot circuit is very important to idling but tickling provides the fuel for starting and he's mostly not getting the cylinders to fire.
 
Joe, if the red ignition kill switch is still mounted in the handle bar cluster , you can use this as a test function for your spark at the plugs with the Pazon Surefire. Darkened room/garage, plugs out and grounded to head, tab the kill switch and you should see spark every time you release the kill button.Just a thought.
 
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