pazon timing and Madass (Don Pender) Carb Linkage Kit with choke - ???

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If you just built the engine, you may want to recheck:

Compression
Valve timing

That's about all that's left if your getting fuel and spark at the right time.
no rebuilt engine. didn't open or get into the engine at all. when I bought the bike, the previous owner told me the last time he rode it, I ran strong (single mikuni). the engine turned over and seems to have good compression, so I saw no reason to get into the engine - other than motor mounts and routine maintenance. the main thing i did was throwing a new wiring harness at the bike. everything seems to be working OK. during installation, I checked and tested every wire, connector, and circuit.
 
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I can tell you that if you installed a Surefire using the static timing instructions then you are going to be very retarded. Likely too retarded to start. Jim
i'll try advancing the timing a bit, until I can get a degree wheel on the thing. all along, I was going with the assumption that I was too advanced. right now, i'm at 28° BTDC. I try again with bumping the timing up 3-5°. thanks!
 
update - reset the timing to 33° BTDC, a couple squirts of gas in each cylinder and nothing. reset the timing to 30-31° and tried again - nothing. beginning to think I have other issues. anyway, the foot and knee are killing me today - need to knock it off for a while.

pazon timing and Madass (Don Pender) Carb Linkage Kit with choke - ???
 
Pretty bike...

Checked valve clearances?
I checked the valves when I first got the bike - they seemed to be on spec. I might go through the whole procedure from scratch just to make sure i'm dead nuts on the money.
 
That's a lovely bike, Joe. I'm sure you'll get it sorted. If your experience is like most of mine, it will turn out to be something frustratingly simple:D.

Ken
 
no rebuilt engine. didn't open or get into the engine at all. when I bought the bike, the previous owner told me the last time he rode it, I ran strong (single mikuni). the engine turned over and seems to have good compression, so I saw no reason to get into the engine - other than motor mounts and routine maintenance. the main thing i did was throwing a new wiring harness at the bike. everything seems to be working OK. during installation, I checked and tested every wire, connector, and circuit.
Just realized that it came with a single carb and now you have two Amal carbs. Are they new? If so, what PACK number or ACK number or carb numbers? If not, what jets do you have? How long does it take for them to tickle?
 
Just realized that it came with a single carb and now you have two Amal carbs. Are they new? If so, what PACK number or ACK number or carb numbers? If not, what jets do you have? How long does it take for them to tickle?
original carbs - i'm thinking the main jets are 220, needle position - middle, throttle valve 3-1/2, not sure on the needle jet and needle. they tickle in a couple seconds
 
Do the carb slides fully close onto the throttle stop screw? Cable adjuster on top of carbs might be shortening the inner cable length too much.
 
Did you get the plugs to go WET?
Yes, that’s too far, but, I’ve seen it...
Just wanted more fuel.
You have (tested) spark, properly rough timed, and compression...
When you spritzed it with gas, plugs right in quickly? Any pop at all?
 
Do the carb slides fully close onto the throttle stop screw? Cable adjuster on top of carbs might be shortening the inner cable length too much.
not sure I fully understand your question. per the instructions the came with the madass linkage, I backed the throttle stop screws off about 1 turn. I took out the slack and adjusted the slides so they are just off the fully closed position then took the slack out the the inner cable. I adjusted the short slide cables so the slides move together in perfect unison with the twist grip. pilot air screws set at 1-1/2 turn from the seated position.
 
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Did you get the plugs to go WET?
Yes, that’s too far, but, I’ve seen it...
Just wanted more fuel.
You have (tested) spark, properly rough timed, and compression...
When you spritzed it with gas, plugs right in quickly? Any pop at all?
no, plugs did no to wet. tested the spark again today - got spark. it seems a bit weak to me, but I do have spark - both cylinders. spritz the gas, and plugs immediately, with timing set at 30-31° - no pop that I could detect. I seem to have spark, i'm thinking timing is on the money, and of course, I have compression, so i'm a bit stumped

I've run out of ideas, so keep them coming....
 
If the slides are not low enough then the draw on the pilot circuit is not enough, even with the tickling, to get a rich mixture into the engine. And how much tickling are you doing, to get mine to start on first or second kick the fuel needs to be flowing out of the tickler before I stop tickling, not just holding the tickler down for a few secs.
 
Only 2 times that I can recall when my 74 refused to start. Once, after replacing an ignition system and having lined up the wrong mark on the rotor. Pop pop pop. You've already corrected that. And second time I simply replaced the plugs and all was well. They looked OK and sparked off the engine but wouldn't fire under compression with fuel.
 
original carbs - i'm thinking the main jets are 220, needle position - middle, throttle valve 3-1/2, not sure on the needle jet and needle. they tickle in a couple seconds
Pilot jets or pilot circuit probably clogged with carbs that were sitting around. Still should fire. I noticed the air cleaner off. Squirt a little gas in each carb and try. Have a fire extinguisher near by if you do that or if you use starting fluid. Are you sure there are no air leaks. You should have head, insulator, manifold, O-ring in carb groove, then carb. Carbs NOT over tightened. Make sure there's no hole/split in the manifold balance tube. What spark plugs are you using and what gap?
 
Your plug wires are longer than normal. Are they touching the top nuts on the exhaust covers or the rocker crossover oil line?
 
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