yes, pretty sure timing is in the ballpark. on the subject of plugs - new NGK's - BPR7ES. as stated, the spark seems a bit weak. pulled the plugs and just have then grounded to the engine while kicking the thing over. don't think it will make much difference, but switching to copper core plugs might be worth a try. also, I'm running moroso plug wires - they were new with the bike. they are 8mm spiral core, emi suppression, 800 ohm. I know old school copper plugs and copper wires have the max energy transfer, and as I recall, they are the preferred, along with a 5K ohm cap, per the pazon instructions. could that be an area of concern?Only 2 times that I can recall when my 74 refused to start. Once, after replacing an ignition system and having lined up the wrong mark on the rotor. Pop pop pop. You've already corrected that. And second time I simply replaced the plugs and all was well. They looked OK and sparked off the engine but wouldn't fire under compression with fuel.
Only 2 times that I can recall when my 74 refused to start. Once, after replacing an ignition system and having lined up the wrong mark on the rotor. Pop pop pop. You've already corrected that. And second time I simply replaced the plugs and all was well. They looked OK and sparked off the engine but wouldn't fire under compression with fuel.
plugs are NGK's BPR7ES gap at .025 inch. plug wires were new with the bike - moroso blue max, 8mm spiral core, EMI suppression, 800 ohm. they seem a bit long, but they are not touching any mounting hardware, I was careful on the routing.Pilot jets or pilot circuit probably clogged with carbs that were sitting around. Still should fire. I noticed the air cleaner off. Squirt a little gas in each carb and try. Have a fire extinguisher near by if you do that or if you use starting fluid. Are you sure there are no air leaks. You should have head, insulator, manifold, O-ring in carb groove, then carb. Carbs NOT over tightened. Make sure there's no hole/split in the manifold balance tube. What spark plugs are you using and what gap?
as I recall, the pazon instructions spec'd old school copper core plugs and copper wires with a 5K ohm cap. could the NGK's and moroso wires be the issue? like I said, my spark seems a bit weak. my gear head neighbor also noted that
i'm tickling the carbs until the gas is flowing. pretty sure the slides are low enough - they seem to be just slightly off the full seated position.If the slides are not low enough then the draw on the pilot circuit is not enough, even with the tickling, to get a rich mixture into the engine. And how much tickling are you doing, to get mine to start on first or second kick the fuel needs to be flowing out of the tickler before I stop tickling, not just holding the tickler down for a few secs.
not using a 5K cap - as I recall, the NGK's are resistor plugs with a 5K ohm rating.If you are using a 5K resistor cap then switch to solid core plugs. Champion N7YC or equiv.
kind of hard to tell - actual spark is fairly small, and appears to be whitish.Tell us about “weak spark”
Yellow?
Blue?
no, haven't tried that, but I will.Have you tried removing the plug caps to see what spark you are getting off the end of the HT leads?
Should be a very good blue spark
Your bike pic shows can type coils.
Doesn’t Pazon come with its own coils in the kit?
no, the pazon system didn't come with coils. when I got the bike, there were two, new, 6v lucas STYLE coils that I installed. they ohm'd out at around 1.7 each.Your bike pic shows can type coils.
Doesn’t Pazon come with its own coils in the kit?
Graeme
Not heard of that type of HT lead but sounds finemy HT leads and plugs - does anyone see any issues here when using the pazon system?
NGK's BPR7ES with moroso blue max spiral core, EMI suppression, 8mm, 800 ohm plug wires. any alternative recommendations?
just found out that I live about 5 miles from the flagler beach nortona event that's held in march. i understand some of you forum folks here attend that event - looking forward to it - hopefully i won't have to push the bike there -