pazon timing and Madass (Don Pender) Carb Linkage Kit with choke - ???

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Tornado said:
Make the roses RFT and re tighten when hot. Check early, check often. Book called for something like 70 ft-lbs but most recommend pounding the wrench with small sledge hammer.
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I've found that a little Permatex Nickel anti-seize on the treads lets them be tightened quite a bit more. I retighten once when hot but generally don't have to tighten again. I use the wrench from AN and no cheater and tighten as tight as I can.

I experimented and found that I got between 1/4 and 3/4 turn tighter with the anti-seize. Permatex Nickel anti-seize is high temp (2400 degrees F) - I don't know if copper or others are as I only use Nickel on my bikes.
 
do you folks use those locking tab washers to lock the finned exhaust nuts? when I bought my 74 Mk2, the finned nuts were lock wired, and not a very good job. basically, they ran a twisted wire from the right nut to the left nut, and technically incorrect for the locking feature. I've installed the tab washers, but haven't used the bend tab feature to lock - will do that, after a hot retorque.
 
joe czech said:
do you folks use those locking tab washers to lock the finned exhaust nuts? when I bought my 74 Mk2, the finned nuts were lock wired, and not a very good job. basically, they ran a twisted wire from the right nut to the left nut, and technically incorrect for the locking feature. I've installed the tab washers, but haven't used the bend tab feature to lock - will do that, after a hot retorque.
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Nope. "Rattle rings" suck. And the safety wire can HIDE a loose nut.
 
I used Permatex Ultra Copper on the exhaust threads with bronze nuts. Went thru the tightening routine and they haven't moved in 7 years. I check them in the spring and periodically during the riding season with the AN tool. As far as the starting problem, I replaced my Boyer with a Pazon Surefire without issues. Either the timing is out or unit defective. It should fire if there is gas in the cylinder. The Trispark test should prove it out
 
lazyeye6 said:
"Make the roses RFT and re tighten when hot. Check early, check often. Book called for something like 70 ft-lbs but most recommend pounding the wrench with small sledge hammer.
Click to expand...

Yikes! I use a length of 1 1/4" steel pipe slipped over my rose tightening tool as a cheater for more leverage.[/QUOTE]
That will work. I use the 5 lb. sledge to the special tool with copper silicone on the threads and around the crush rings. A good run then out comes the sledge hammer and rose nut tool again for a couple of hits.
 
Ex nuts should be tightened whilst hot and the head has expanded.

I think it might have been Ludwig who also advised to tighten with a running engine, the vibrations act like a mild impact wrench.

I’ve never used locking tabs or lockwire and have had no problems.
 
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joe czech said:
do you folks use those locking tab washers to lock the finned exhaust nuts? when I bought my 74 Mk2, the finned nuts were lock wired, and not a very good job. basically, they ran a twisted wire from the right nut to the left nut, and technically incorrect for the locking feature. I've installed the tab washers, but haven't used the bend tab feature to lock - will do that, after a hot retorque.
Click to expand...

Those rattle rings caused the exhaust port threads to get buggered on my bike long ago. I had to get sleeves welded in.
I'm in the habit of wiggling my mufflers every time I get off the bike, checking for looseness at the head and muffler joints. I also carry the spanner with me, always. RFT.
 
So, you have observed spark.
Even if all the other details are off, (timing, valve clearances) you should get a fart from exhaust, or a pop back through the intake... IF it’s getting fuel into the combustion chamber.


Make the plugs wet....:p

Merry Christmas Joe!:D
 
concours said:
So, you have observed spark.
Even if all the other details are off, (timing, valve clearances) you should get a fart from exhaust, or a pop back through the intake... IF it’s getting fuel into the combustion chamber.


Make the plugs wet....:p

Merry Christmas Joe!:D
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I did get a fart or pop last time I tried to start the thing, but decided to go back to square one and start over - check everything. had to order a new degree wheel. mine's MIA - i'm thinking the last guy to borrow it may have forgotten to return it. anyway, everything's in place - should get back into things within a couple days. ditto on the Merry Christmas....
 
concours said:
So, you have observed spark.
Even if all the other details are off, (timing, valve clearances) you should get a fart from exhaust, or a pop back through the intake... IF it’s getting fuel into the combustion chamber.
Click to expand...
In general, I agree 100%, but read posts #135 and #162 in this thread.

I was fighting an almost identical problem and it turned out to be the Pazon.

Yesterday, I found what probably caused the Pazon to fail. The red wires to the head steady were in a crimp connector and were loose and corroded. I think that's why it was sparking too often and too weakly. After fixing that, pulled the Tri-Spark and stuck the Pazon back in - wouldn't fire - starts and runs perfectly on the Tri-Spark.
 
Agreed.
There is some unusual stuff occasionally.

It’s why I say: “TEST, don’t guess”
 
So was the starting problem ever resolved? I have Boyer ignition on my 1974 and 1973 Commandos. Kept points on the 1973. Can't tell the difference, but the points will fire down to 6 Volts if you have a flat battery so I like that. In any case, I am curious as I have dealt with most of the issues described here during the course of 3 restorations and almost 20 years of Norton ownership. Always got them resolved, and learned a lot in the process. Good health to all as we work our way through this COVID-19 crisis.
 
I almost forgot - I also have A Lucas RITA, on the 1972 BSA. Quit on me twice after exactly 25 minutes of riding. I suspected a bad transistor but it turned out that the nut on the connection post was not tight enough, and the terminals oxidized. I cleaned them up with steel wool, reassembled and tightened the nut correctly, and 6 months, 30 rides and and over 100 starts later it has not caused a problem.
 
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