New (to me) Dominator

Fast Eddie

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Regarding the cracked exhaust.
The road racing types never use clamps because they are too rigid.
One pipe fits into the other pipe and is held in place by probably two springs.
As it was explained to me by a guy who made exhausts,
You hit a bump and the pipes parts a little then you hit another bump and it slides back in the the original position,
Clamped solidly the pipe would fracture.

That plus the stresses caused by expansion and contraction as they heat and cool.
 

Vernon240

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Yes indeed, I like the textured paint appearance - looks resilient also.

You got skills!:)
Kind of you to say! Well, I have some skills, but the path to where I am is littered with the results of the many times my skills bucket was running on empty! The paint is meant for truck bed liners. I was making a bracket that had to match another component for work (I was the only person who actually worked with his hands in his spare time, so I got the gig when they needed a prototype made in a day or they lose the deal...I would like to think it was because I was good at this, but the reality was I was the only option! :D ) and this matched it almost exactly. Really tough stuff. A view which I'll maintain until it all falls off, first ride, then I'll be moaning about how bad it is!:D
 

Vernon240

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That plus the stresses caused by expansion and contraction as they heat and cool.
OK, so I'm working up to leaving one set of clamps out. Wonder how the MOT types would feel about this? Just thinking, my car system is secured at the heads...then on rubber mounts just before the axle..then rubber mounts by the tail pieces...so only mounted solidly at the engine itself. Clamps are use at each section....3 per side...but that's not such an issue as it's all suspended from rubber mounts.

Hmm so Norton is secured at heads, bottom of header pipes.....then to decat pipes via clamps, decat pipe suspended from chassis..err frame :D....and then clamps to tail pipes, which are also solidly mounted. I think there is some give in the decat to frame and tail pipes to frame mounts...but...but some though needed though!
 

Clive

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But remember to add to the list Engine solidly secured to frame so not a lot of movement there.....
 

Vernon240

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Well, nearly done here:



and I have a new bosch crank sensor:
k2BbMPul.jpg


Side by side with the original:

c50y1r4l.jpg

Bosch on the left:
6R3xme9l.jpg


New chain arrived!
uwZjdmdl.jpg

tUDlQewl.jpg


so both a new sprocket and chain on. The drive sprocket looked like new, but will check it more closely later on.

Used a laser to align it...seems to be pretty easy to use!

u97Lff4l.jpg


Mounting plates ready to go on, but delayed as I wanted to treat minor rust on the mounting bosses on the frame:

ocjH2r3l.jpg


For the mounting screw holding the sensor in place, conscious it was going to be stainless into alloy, so put some of this on the thread. Not sure if this will cause an issue....the sensor vibrating out would be bad, so a lock washer might be a good addition.
h9FVGyml.jpg


and this won't be going back on!
bdMWrSIl.jpg
 
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Well, nearly done here:



and I have a new bosch crank sensor:
k2BbMPul.jpg


Side by side with the original:

c50y1r4l.jpg

Bosch on the left:
6R3xme9l.jpg


New chain arrived!
uwZjdmdl.jpg

tUDlQewl.jpg


so both a new sprocket and chain on. The drive sprocket looked like new, but will check it more closely later on.

Used a laser to align it...seems to be pretty easy to use!

u97Lff4l.jpg


Mounting plates ready to go on, but delayed as I wanted to treat minor rust on the mounting bosses on the frame:

ocjH2r3l.jpg


For the mounting screw holding the sensor in place, conscious it was going to be stainless into alloy, so put some of this on the thread. Not sure if this will cause an issue....the sensor vibrating out would be bad, so a lock washer might be a good addition.
h9FVGyml.jpg


and this won't be going back on!
bdMWrSIl.jpg
You really had some corrosion going on there ! All the salt spray ! Your previous owner did drive it didn't they ?
 

Vernon240

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You really had some corrosion going on there ! All the salt spray ! Your previous owner did drive it didn't they ?
outrageously, I think they did! They are to be used for sure, just wish he'd used some protection, like some ACF 50 or the like!
 

Vernon240

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I’m sure the front sprocket will be ok , it’s made of tough steel compared to the alloy rear , changed my front at bout 18k approx I think
Yep, it looked good. Compared with a new one it really was a tough 'spot the difference'. Eventually worked out the main difference was the current one was attached to the bike!

And forgot the best picture! Bling!

JfVceSYl.jpg
 
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Vernon240

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OK, bit of an update..engine mounts finally fitted, having all mating bits doused with dinitrol rust fluid:




It looks better than this!


so now I turn my attention to making sure the head bolts are torqued and fiddly procedure of getting the valve cover off.

Mine has 'MM' written inside...either the engine builder or sub assembly builder I've been told. Most did this when they took pride in their work. I'm hoping that means they were good and took pride vs poor...but also took pride!



It was pretty rough around the bolt holes etc...so lets go polishing! There were lots of nicks in the sides and the fins had some gouges, so time to sort all that out.





You can see lots of imperfections/damage. Unsure if tis is just 'how they are' or subsequent damage. The bolt holes are as cast, but the remainder, not sure.

Here I'm cleaning up the damage at the front and around the bolt holes



and here correcting some damage to the side:




Looking better



and the shine is coming back as I change to finer sandpaper grit.



I know a lot of this won't be seen.....but I'm still going to paint the raw casting between the fins black and polish the fins after!
 
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Vernon240

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Might seem a bit drastic, but once all the imperfections were sorted, took the whole cover to this level:
WQRmrQhh.jpg


and a bigger version of before. The fins in particular were pretty badly beaten up

 
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Might seem a bit drastic, but once all the imperfections were sorted, took the whole cover to this level:
WQRmrQhh.jpg


and a bigger version of before. The fins in particular were pretty badly beaten up

When you are done it will be better than new !
 

Vernon240

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When you are done it will be better than new !
It's a pretty looking casting. I can see why Norton didn't take them to this level as it's hugely labour intensive. I don't think I have any fingerprints left! Now wearing gloves (stables and bolted horses spring to mind!)
 
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ntst8

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Nice work.
Mine was assembled by MM too, i am note sure if that is cause for optimism or not. :)
 

Vernon240

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Well, getting there..but more polishing will happen, but pretty happy with this. Looks better in the Aluminium in my view!
svYBYOAl.jpg


and considering a slightly different banjo arrangement:
m1rsPSml.jpg


a AN-6 fitting, so I can add venting at some point..I need to look at that, as I seem to have some sort of vent arrangement already..I'll post pictures.
 

Vernon240

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Well, a little update. getting the airbox back in was very fiddle, bit done., the ICM was a right pain..but wondering if removing it is an option. I noticed the ICM hose had zero clamping on the ICM end of the hose! It was not a tight fit, so tat would not be great for idle!

Valves all checked/adjusted according to Richards instructions! Even put check marks on the rockers!
XrYTxa3l.jpg


Using my home made gasket:

b1QpoNdl.jpg


you gotta love some shinyness!

iLQqiYsl.jpg
 
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Well, a little update. getting the airbox back in was very fiddle, bit done., the ICM was a right pain..but wondering if removing it is an option. I noticed the ICM hose had zero clamping on the ICM end of the hose! It was not a tight fit, so tat would not be great for idle!

Valves all checked/adjusted according to Richards instructions! Even put check marks on the rockers!
XrYTxa3l.jpg


Using my home made gasket:

b1QpoNdl.jpg


you gotta love some shinyness!

iLQqiYsl.jpg
Looks great , nice work .
 

Vernon240

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small update, made some new HT leads. I was looking for the retro long boots, but could not find them....but the original boots were easily removed and were in great condition, so problem solved.

Vv7JVgDl.jpg


If anyone is doing this, the silicone spray is pretty much essential to get your boots onto the HT wire. he leads were offcuts from anoter project...perfect for the Norton. They were made by Taylor, a US manufacturer.

Getting the leads to this point was probably the toughest part:

zOz07AZl.jpg


My crimping tools. the MSD crimp/stripper on the left was great for stripping the cable, but the crimp wasn't as tight as I would have liked, so the tool on the right was used to tighten the crimp.

gD4TPHkl.jpg


Pretty happy with this. The conducting core is tucked under the blue wire, opposite the crimping.
0iZmuhkl.jpg


I adjusted the position of the crimped end within the boot so that the top of the plug was nicely covered
cFQsxOrl.jpg


so ended up with these:

X0iWA57l.jpg


I was going to fine tune the lengths, but ended up going with the factory lengths, as there was little to be gained by going slightly shorter

e65qWAql.jpg


The other ends were far quicker and easier..and all done:
nLReKUgl.jpg

CYLpTWIl.jpg


and yep, battery/coil bracket in place..and yes, eagle eyed of you would notice no relays. Forgot them, as they were dangling by the side of the bike.
They are in place now!

TSUBY1Vl.jpg
 
Last edited:

Vernon240

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I looked at the rubber shielding that had been attached to the bottom of the battery box and had long given up.

I toyed with the idea of using the soft fuzzy part of some heavy duty velcro on the left, but once attached to the battery box, the grip, even from the 'hook' side of the velcro still well attached to the shield was just too aggressive. I ended up cleaning the original part that attached to the battery box and used 3M tape to re attach.
G3IjMLol.jpg


HcIVE3Zl.jpg


Seems to hold well, but still 'seperateable'. Time will tell if I have to use the more aggressive stuff!

CYLpTWIl.jpg


My battery strap has deteriorated quite badly, while the clips had gone rusty, so made some new ones. I had some stainless wire, so while I could make a U shape, folding the last two pieces was pretty much impossible without distorting the original shape...so I made up a quick former out of aluminium I had:
A570PwUl.jpg


and attached them to a longer strap.....only to find that due to my battery choice, it was too long! I've ordered a shorter strap.

F4JROn9l.jpg



Other things that need doing...need a little retaining strap for my ECU...I'll make that this week out of some formed sheet steel.

cMWHEmol.jpg


and thinking what I can do with the tail tidy. I new plate has been ordered as the one on the bike was tiny and is an open invitation to be pulled by the police. It's literally 1/4 the size of a standard plate. the one in the picture is a smaller pate off an old bike which is more like the size I'll need to fit. I'd like to tuck the plate further back under the rear light..but concerned about rear wheel contact. Pretty sure I can make something better, so I think I'll be replacing the whole tail tidy..and maybe even the lamp! I have a plan that works perfectly in my head. Reality? lets see.

jrkv4k2l.jpg


but we have new grips!
ssTzoOql.jpg


and most of an exhaust!
cOm5o81l.jpg


More as it happens!
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Messages
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Country flag
I looked at the rubber shielding that had been attached to the bottom of the battery box and had long given up.

I toyed with the idea of using the soft fuzzy part of some heavy duty velcro on the left, but once attached to the battery box, the grip, even from the 'hook' side of the velcro still well attached to the shield was just too aggressive. I ended up cleaning the original part that attached to the battery box and used 3M tape to re attach.
G3IjMLol.jpg


HcIVE3Zl.jpg


Seems to hold well, but still 'seperateable'. Time will tell if I have to use the more aggressive stuff!

CYLpTWIl.jpg


My battery strap has deteriorated quite badly, while the clips had gone rusty, so made some new ones. I had some stainless wire, so while I could make a U shape, folding the last two pieces was pretty much impossible without distorting the original shape...so I made up a quick former out of aluminium I had:
A570PwUl.jpg


and attached them to a longer strap.....only to find that due to my battery choice, it was too long! I've ordered a shorter strap.

F4JROn9l.jpg



Other things that need doing...need a little retaining strap for my ECU...I'll make that this week out of some formed sheet steel.

cMWHEmol.jpg


and thinking what I can do with the tail tidy. I new plate has been ordered as the one on the bike was tiny and is an open invitation to be pulled by the police. It's literally 1/4 the size of a standard plate. the one in the picture is a smaller pate off an old bike which is more like the size I'll need to fit. I'd like to tuck the plate further back under the rear light..but concerned about rear wheel contact. Pretty sure I can make something better, so I think I'll be replacing the whole tail tidy..and maybe even the lamp! I have a plan that works perfectly in my head. Reality? lets see.

jrkv4k2l.jpg


but we have new grips!
ssTzoOql.jpg


and most of an exhaust!
cOm5o81l.jpg


More as it happens!
Nice work ! I wish I was your neighbor !
 
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