New (to me) Dominator

Vernon240 · Apr 19, 2021

More progress at the weekend, plus a delivery of gaskets and a front sprocket from Theil Motorsport. Funny how we can get parts from outside the UK where lock down is more severe..but can't get anything out of Norton 'beceuse Covid' here in the UK.

Noticed these..can't have rusty bolts on my clamps!

Luckily have these. I had a box for another project. Cheaper to buy a box vs the quantity I needed, I believe all stainless, so these will be going on

and of course, these need cleaning

So this area is now as clean as I can get it

So etch primed and ready for a nice black top coat

and this area cleaned of minor pitting as well

but overall, still heading backwards as far as assembly is concerned!!

Claudio · Apr 19, 2021

I have eliminated the front clamps for the exhaust pipes, there is more freedom of expansion and less tension on the central connection

Vernon240 · Apr 19, 2021

Claudio said:
I have eliminated the front clamps for the exhaust pipes, there is more freedom of expansion and less tension on the central connection

ok, interesting. Any issues with exhaust gasses leaking etc? I have a system on a car where all four headers feed to a collector and they are just held together with tabs which are locked together to stop the joint comming apart, but nothing clamping around the edge. You can see the joints here. No issues at all:

Claudio · Apr 19, 2021

No exhaust leaks and no problems from 3,000 miles

Vernon240 · Apr 19, 2021

Well, we have a sprocket! well, two actually!

and a call from the vapor blasters saw me whip around there on my speed triple to pick these up!

Time to get some etch primer on these..but I'm going to take those sharp edges off the engine mounting plates.

Now just awaiting a chain and chain riveting tool.

Voodooo · Apr 19, 2021

Vernon240 said:
Well, we have a sprocket! well, two actually!

and a call from the vapor blasters saw me whip around there on my speed triple to pick these up!

Time to get some etch primer on these..but I'm going to take those sharp edges off the engine mounting plates.

Now just awaiting a chain and chain riveting tool.

What chain tool did you go with? I just bought the motion pro PBR. probably the best one I ever used.

TonyA · Apr 19, 2021

Vernon240 said:
Well, we have a sprocket! well, two actually!

and a call from the vapor blasters saw me whip around there on my speed triple to pick these up!

Time to get some etch primer on these..but I'm going to take those sharp edges off the engine mounting plates.

Now just awaiting a chain and chain riveting tool.

Nice work !

Vernon240 · Apr 20, 2021

Voodooo said:
What chain tool did you go with? I just bought the motion pro PBR. probably the best one I ever used.

I've gone with a Tsubaki sigma chain that has solid master link pins, so I've just received the Whale riveting and pin removal tool to do the 4 way stake on these pins. I think this tool may well remove hollow pins, but I'm not so sure about riveting on hollow pins..I could be wrong though.

cliffa · Apr 20, 2021

Vernon240 said:
I've gone with a Tsubaki sigma chain that has solid master link pins, so I've just received the Whale riveting and pin removal tool to do the 4 way stake on these pins. I think this tool may well remove hollow pins, but I'm not so sure about riveting on hollow pins..I could be wrong though.

I'm pretty sure the Whale will only do solid pins as it peens over the edge in two spots at a time as opposed to the hollow pins needing a flare. (and don't need as much welly).

Vernon240 · Apr 20, 2021

cliffa said:
I'm pretty sure the Whale will only do solid pins as it peens over the edge in two spots at a time as opposed to the hollow pins needing a flare. (and don't need as much welly).

Yep, that was my understanding. I'll try the pin extraction part of it later....you need a hammer for that as well!

cliffa · Apr 20, 2021

Vernon240 said:
Yep, that was my understanding. I'll try the pin extraction part of it later....you need a hammer for that as well!

Don't forget to grind the heads off the pins first though, otherwise they damage the roller on the way out (don't ask me how I know)

Vernon240 · Apr 21, 2021

Well, the weather has been brilliant in old Blighty, so a good opportunity to paint parts outside, so progress is ongoing!

Maybe controversially, I'm using this textured paint. It's very hard wearing and given where it will be on the bike, I've decided some impact resistance is usefull, so engine mounting plates done

Battery and coil cradle also done, so letting the pain cure on these before refitting

Fitted my new sprocket onto the carrier, new cush drive rubbers with the recommended grease and fitted the carrier and sprocket onto the wheel. Well, it didn't just fall on for sure! I found the easiest way was lay the sprocket face down on my work ship stool and push the wheel down onto it from above. Seemed to be relatively easy, but some firm pressure required.

This Whale brand chain separator arrived. Looks a solid bit of kit. Decided to at least drive a pin out and at least break my chain.

So while the breaking tool works well...you effectively clamp the link/river in question and drive out using a driving pin and hammer, it requires a fair hit or two to start the progress. I also learnt hitting my finger with the hammer hurts. A lot!

But after some faff, got the rear wheel on. I'm very new to working on bikes, so I'm sure I made a meal of this, but I'm sure I'll get better!

We have the first coat of paint on the front of the engine! This is Satin engine enamel. I've used on a few projects now and it comes out well.

and some titanium exhaust nuts for added bling

All three studs came off with their nuts seized on. I'll take that any day over broken studs, so using the two nut trick, removed the old nuts on the studs, re installed the studs, followed by my new locking nuts. I've only done one side, but fully expect the other side to be exactly the same. One of those little jobs you think won't take a min ends up taking way longer!

Fast Eddie · Apr 21, 2021

Are they nyloc nuts?

Nyloc aren’t good in that application as the nylon will melt.

Vernon240 · Apr 21, 2021

Fast Eddie said:
Are they nyloc nuts?

Nyloc aren’t good in that application as the nylon will melt.

Have no fear, these are the ones I'm using. I noticed the ones on the front engine mounts were lock nuts, but not nylocs, as they are close to the exhaust/engine heat..then saw this size are used in a few places on the bike and were all looking quite badly coroded...so these will be going on the rear exhaust mounts as well. Same issue, no good for nylocs.

TonyA · Apr 21, 2021

Vernon240 said:
Have no fear, these are the ones I'm using. I noticed the ones on the front engine mounts were lock nuts, but not nylocs, as they are close to the exhaust/engine heat..then saw this size are used in a few places on the bike and were all looking quite badly coroded...so these will be going on the rear exhaust mounts as well. Same issue, no good for nylocs.

Nice Work !

Vernon240 · Apr 21, 2021

Compared to my originals. They were letting the side down I felt:

TonyA · Apr 21, 2021

Vernon240 said:
Compared to my originals. They were letting the side down I felt:

Its going to look sweet when you're done.

Stephen_Spencer · Apr 21, 2021

Yes indeed, I like the textured paint appearance - looks resilient also.

You got skills!

MAK · Apr 22, 2021

Stephen_Spencer said:
Exhaust centre rubber bush mount failed in the first year. Exhaust is perfectly rigid without it !

View attachment 79167

MAK · Apr 22, 2021

BLIGHTYBRIT/SF said:
Few more of mine , under the tank is where u blank of the 02 lamda sensors , u can see the resistors with black cover caps on , battery box broke on the tank support section , & then of course the decat pipe , btw linking out the lamda sensors was the best thing I’ve done on bike , no stalling/hunting/over revving /splutter , just runs great View attachment 78970 View attachment 78971 View attachment 78972 View attachment 78973 View attachment 78974

Regarding the cracked exhaust.
The road racing types never use clamps because they are too rigid.
One pipe fits into the other pipe and is held in place by probably two springs.
As it was explained to me by a guy who made exhausts,
You hit a bump and the pipes parts a little then you hit another bump and it slides back in the the original position,
Clamped solidly the pipe would fracture.

New (to me) Dominator

Vernon240

Claudio

Vernon240

Claudio

Vernon240

Voodooo

Guest

TonyA

Vernon240

cliffa

Vernon240

cliffa

Vernon240

Fast Eddie

Vernon240

TonyA

Vernon240

TonyA

Stephen_Spencer

MAK

MAK

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