The P11 thread

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BillT said:
That same drive is used on BSA Gold Stars and Super Rockets. If you know a BSA guy, he can probably hook you up.

I've got a couple drives that are missing the driven gear. Seems if they stick, that vertical pops the cover off the bottom of the drive and ends up on the road somewhere. I bought one for parts from a BSA guy that had been safety-wired just for that.

Regarding welding the slider...I had my original left slider welded by a local shop because it was split at the bottom (which was why it was abandoned at the dealer back in the '70s). No issues with heat distortion, but I did have bubbles in the weld that seeped on and off (he told me this was likely). Finally replaced it last year with an ebay slider. This same guy has welded ears on other sliders with no issues.

That looks like what happened to my drive. It is missing the driven and rear disk plate. Thanks for the info on the BSA's I do know a few people and will ask around. Mike P has new but "Big Dollars" :shock:
Mike Partridge told me that a lot of sliders got cracked because water got into them and got frozen over winter. :shock: I can’t see how that would happen if the seals are good? Who knows what 40 years of past will dish out. My one slider had lots of Porosity bubbles at the welds and a broken off lug. The tapped holes for the upper fender stay attachment were over/bore stud with a machined step (A two diameter stud) and tapped to bring it to the fender slot dimension. There was a lot wrong with it. I got to hand it to the PO for being frugal. :roll:
Cheers
Thomas
CNN
 
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Jerry Kaplan Hi all,

I finally finished adding the detail photos of the ongoing work on the Mike Patrick Championship P11 desert sled racer!

They are captioned, but of course I'll be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. Basically this is what it took to hang tough in the great desert races held in the Southwest.

See the album here: https://mymotolife.shutterfly.com/7162

C-ya, Jer
 
I'm torn about that one. A bike is only original once - it can be restored time and time again.

All three of mine were total basket cases that had not been in one piece - or even complete - in 30 to 40 years. A bike that is complete, can be made to run without too much effort, and has all kinds of 'patina', not a good candidate for restoration, IMO.

a 'sympathetic' restoration, where items like bearings, gaskets, cables and seals are renewed and the overall condition is preserved, that's my idea of the proper treatment for a bike with history.
 
Naked as a J Bird frame to see. I'd just clear coat it!
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3_9OY2saqI[/video]
 
"Not sure what year it is, early '70s maybe". I hope this guy is prepping the frame for somebody else to assemble.

That's a P11 frame. The hoop at the back of the frame carries the front of the fender, and the two pins just in front of the hoop (look like bent nails) are what the back of the seat slots into. Front of a '67 (fiberglass pan) seat has a tongue that slides under the fuel tank. P11As and Rangers had no hoop bridging the back of the frame, as both had longer seats. P11A seat (also fiberglass pan) had studs on the bottom back, which bolted to the flat hoop on the rear fender loop which slides into the back of the frame tubes with aluminum adaptors. The Ranger seat connects to the top bolts of the shocks via special 'L' brackets that bolt to the bottom of the steel seat pan. Front of the P11A and Ranger seats slot into a rear-facing pin that looks just like the 67 pins.

You can take the seat off a P11A or Ranger without taking the tank off. The tank has to come off a P11 to get the seat off.

The hoop and seat pin locations, and the tabs for the battery side cover are the only differences between a P11 and the later frames
 
The P11 thread


https://mymotolife.shutterfly.com/7165#7165

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8y81uUHmP-0

this one.
The P11 thread


The production P11 (with easily removable street gear) became the bike to race in 1967. Mike Patrick won the #1 plate in desert racing for two years in a row on a P11

maybe the prototype ?
The P11 thread
 
When did the P11 ignition switch move or was added to the battery cover area? I see a bracket brazed to the chassis (124997)for this switch, but not on early 67 models.
Thanks Craig
 

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124997 would be a P11A. This bike would not have the loop between the shock towers shown on the stripped P11 frame shown a few posts above. The ignition bracket is correct for P11As and Rangers. I don't know if or when the ignition bracket was mounted on a P11 - the only ones I've seen in person were raced and had no switch or lights.
 
p400 said:
When did the P11 ignition switch move or was added to the battery cover area? I see a bracket brazed to the chassis (124997)for this switch, but not on early 67 models.
Thanks Craig

This may well be true; bracket for switch was fitted closer to the battery to save miles if wiring :!:
 
I am hoping that a P11 owner will respond to the location of the ig switch on a 67 P11, cant be that big of a secret.
I did find a great reference somewhere on the web. No Lucas number for the dip/horn.
I am requesting more documentation on the Lucas horn. Anyone?
 

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Even tho this cat lists a horn number, I am not satisfied with the details I find on the horn numbers............not the same as earlier catalogs and details.

I will warn that a Lucas catalog issued in 1979, in very turbulent Brit bike times, may list the modern 1979 replacement, not the actual historical numbers.
 

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The P11 horn in the P11 Replacement Parts catalog (catalog date?) shows the following -

Anyone have details on this Lucas 6H 70159B number?
Thanks
 

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The Lucas 6H horn is the standard horn for most of the English bikes of this period, and also the 'high' note horn on many English cars of the same vintage. Emgo makes a decent copy for around $15, and originals show up all the time in the $15-80 range on ebay, dependent on condition.
 
Is the horn bracket a Norton or Lucas piece? 030044
Is there a dimensional drawing of this bracket, probably easily fabbed.
 

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Actual Norton service instruction dealing with P11 fork springs and misc. This is page 1 of 2
 

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hopefully page 2 of service instruction.
 

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I bought some Skimmed Hubs for My P11 yesterday. They should go nicely with my new-shouldered ally rims and s/s spokes. But I am in need for an axle for the front wheel. Who would be able to supply? :idea: I sketched and dimensioned from another P11 owner axle to manufacture if all else fails. This axle is for non-tapered bearing type. I would like to get something decent used rather than trying to manufacture one.
Thanks for helping in advance. Progress is slow but moving forward.
Thomas.
CNN
 
What does the original battery strap look like?
033184 battery strap and 028044 battery-strap pins....also the original cushion pads 026359 & 033185
here is the battery tray bottom
 

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Thomas,

My Ranger had a bent front spindle when I got it (which was part of the reason it sat in a parts warehouse for 30-odd years).

After looking around for about six months, I finally asked Steve at AMC Classic Spares. At the time, he had 2 on the shelf. One came to me at 51 GBP plus postage (around 92 USD total back in 2010)

AMC switched from their previous front spindle, 012825, in 1963 to the 'interim' spindle, 029261. This spindle was used on the Matchless G3, G80, G12 and the corresponding AJS 16, 18, and 31 models in most forms except the G80/18 CS. In 1964, most AMC models went to Roadholders with Norton spindle, 030055, except for the G80CS/18CS which went to the 029261. The 350 Competition machines of 1964 stayed with Teledraulics, too. I believe the G80CS kept this spindle until the end, along with the G85 and P11.

So, look for an 029261 spindle, available on any 63 (except G80CS) or 64-up AMC with Teledraulics
 
p400 said:
What does the original battery strap look like?
033184 battery strap and 028044 battery-strap pins....also the original cushion pads 026359 & 033185

The strap is rubberized, with a loop on each end. A pin fits in each loop and hooks onto the tabs under the battery tray. I used a strap from a MkIII Commando, which is adjustable. Instead of hooking the buckle on the battery tray like a Commando, I used it to make an adjustable loop and got an extra pin.

Strap - 064070
Buckle - 064064
Pin - 064065 - 2 needed for this application

If you look in front of the battery in this photo, you'll see that assembly
The P11 thread
 
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