The P11 thread

[jimbo]

P11A in a barn

I found an original 1968 P11A, fairly local for sale. It has a title and matching numbers. Almost all there missing its pipes. Its a project , barn find, you know, sat for 20 yrs $3500 , What should I do? :?

 

[grandpaul]

If the engine turns over with compression, buy it. If not, haggle it down.

Repro pies are easy enough to find.

 

[BillT]

Re: P11A in a barn

I found an original 1968 P11A, fairly local for sale. It has a title and matching numbers. Almost all there missing its pipes. Its a project , barn find, you know, sat for 20 yrs $3500 , What should I do? :?

Ditto what GP said. These things are getting snapped up and shipped to Oz or back to the UK on a regular basis. All the original P11s were shipped to North America, though a few were then shipped on to other parts of the world.

Earlier in this thread, you'll find info on parts sources and a bit on the differences between the models

20 months of production, 3 model years, 3 or 4 models (depending whether or not you call a P11A with Ranger decals a P11A or P11A Ranger), 2500 bikes altogether

P11A is the easiest model to find.

Many P11s were raced, and not a lot of them survive today. Roughly 700 P11s built, most with off-road-only forks and high pipes.
P11A was a street scrambler, with a dual seat that could be easily converted to a full-on scrambler, but most stayed on the street, and about 1300 were built.
Ranger 750 was built as a street scrambler, too, but more changes from the P11A made it easier to ride 2-up. Just under 500 were built

All had the same powerplant, frame and wheels. fork internals changed from P11 to P11A, seats, oil tanks, gas tanks, hubs, fenders, handlebars, pipes changed, too between the models, usually to improve parts reliability or street comfort.

 

[jimbo]

frame # 124 888 with a P11 124 888 motor and a P11 200 59 trans makes it a 1968 P11A, steel oil tank ,steel fenders,dual seat with white piping, low pipes(missing) alloy tail light ,smooth drum hubs, road forks, is that correct?

 

[jimbo]

bought it, now I need to figure out what to do with it :wink:

 

[CanukNortonNut]

I have a really pooched slider (messed up, fubar, needs to be tossed in the bin) :? on my P11 project. I have been given a complete fork assembly for a Matchless but the Matchless has only one lug bolt point for the fender stays. How rare are the P11 sliders?
Kind Regards,
Thomas
CNN

 

[jimbo]

I thought I saw a set on Ebay

 

[BillT]

I have a really pooched slider (messed up, fubar, needs to be tossed in the bin) :? on my P11 project. I have been given a complete fork assembly for a Matchless but the Matchless has only one lug bolt point for the fender stays. How rare are the P11 sliders?
Kind Regards,
Thomas
CNN

The two-lug sliders only came on the bikes with the lightweight fenders, which would be the C, CS, or CSR models. The standard road bikes had those big mudguards that only needed the rear stay. I guess a G11, G12 or G80, or the AJS equivalent. I don't know how early you could go and still be sure of a match.

I found a replacement slider on ebay a couple years ago after looking for over a year. Another way to go would be to have a really good welder cut one of the ears off your buggered slider and weld it on your good single-ear piece.

 

[CanukNortonNut]

I have a really pooched slider (messed up, fubar, needs to be tossed in the bin) :? on my P11 project. I have been given a complete fork assembly for a Matchless but the Matchless has only one lug bolt point for the fender stays. How rare are the P11 sliders?
Kind Regards,
Thomas
CNN

The two-lug sliders only came on the bikes with the lightweight fenders, which would be the C, CS, or CSR models. The standard road bikes had those big mudguards that only needed the rear stay. I guess a G11, G12 or G80, or the AJS equivalent. I don't know how early you could go and still be sure of a match.

I found a replacement slider on ebay a couple years ago after looking for over a year. Another way to go would be to have a really good welder cut one of the ears off your buggered slider and weld it on your good single-ear piece.

BillT
You were reading my mind. That's probably the way I am going to have to go. Weld that piece on to the Matchless slider.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Thomas

 

[jimbo]

P11 side stand on ebay

Are these the side stand parts that fit on a P11A?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400685495458?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380553378969?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[CanukNortonNut]

Jimbo
I am looking at sending all my parts out to get Powdercoated and yes that clamp is part of the side stand. It clamps on the lower R/H tube and the flat sits up against the engine/gearbox plate.
I'll Race you to see who gets finished first. :mrgreen: Edit: That side stand looks alittle longer than mine but I am not an expert on the P11. I am doing a lot of learning on this fun rebuild.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

 

[jimbo]

so the two parts that are in the photos are assembled with the shouldered bolt that is also in the photo? And nothing else?

 

[jimbo]

will this N15 centerstand bolt up to a P11?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Norton-N15-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item233855ccec&vxp=mtr

 

[jimbo]

does a P11A have a headsteady? what does it look like?

 

[jimbo]

Jimbo
......
I'll Race you to see who gets finished first...... I am doing a lot of learning on this fun rebuild.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

I'm not really starting on my P11A, as I have two bikes waiting ahead of it, my 1959 wline is gonna take a while, I don't work very fast anymore. In fact the P11A might go on the market down the road.

 

[BillT]

does a P11A have a headsteady? what does it look like?

Side stand - what you have is right, except the clamp is assembled backwards. The backside with the angled chunk wedges up against the engine plate to keep the stand from spinning. You're missing a regular nut for the top stud. the bottom stud gets the shouldered nut to clear the sidestand arm.

Center stand - will not fit on a P11. The picture shown is for a G15. The CS models had extensions welded to the feet due to the higher ground clearance - look like 2" chunks of 1-1/2" round stock.

Head steady - is about 8" long, made from 1/4" aluminum bar stock with about a 30 deg bend at each end. one end bolts to the center hole on the head, the other end bolts to a boss on the frame between the wings for the fuel tank mount.

 

[jimbo]

found the headsteady it was right there in front of me on the table! still need a tach ,exhaust,+ side stand

 

[mdt-son]

BillT
You were reading my mind. That's probably the way I am going to have to go. Weld that piece on to the Matchless slider.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Thomas

Hi Thomas,
Forgert about the welding route. Heat will distort your slider beyond usability. I've tried this (admittedly, at the top end). Why do you consider welding when new 2-lug sliders can be bought at a reasonable price? Contact AMC-Classic-Spares (UK) for a quote.

Regards,

Knut

 

[CanukNortonNut]

Knut,
Yes that has bothered me as well about welding the bits to make it look right. :? I have been to Mike Partridge at Walridge Motors and he sold me a spare used unit that is good. I am over that barrier. Lots of other bits that are new came out of the meeting that was missing for the project. The price of the project just got larger but he taught me alot. It doesn’t take much to add up. I am now waiting for some rims, and when I get this and a front fender with stays...More $$$
Like I said before this is a fun and interesting build. I am on a journey in many ways tackling the problems as they arise. I am still looking for a good used tach drive... Smiths BG1608/05
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

 

[BillT]

Knut,
... I am still looking for a good used tach drive... Smiths BG1608/05
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

That same drive is used on BSA Gold Stars and Super Rockets. If you know a BSA guy, he can probably hook you up.

I've got a couple drives that are missing the driven gear. Seems if they stick, that vertical pops the cover off the bottom of the drive and ends up on the road somewhere. I bought one for parts from a BSA guy that had been safety-wired just for that.

Regarding welding the slider...I had my original left slider welded by a local shop because it was split at the bottom (which was why it was abandoned at the dealer back in the '70s). No issues with heat distortion, but I did have bubbles in the weld that seeped on and off (he told me this was likely). Finally replaced it last year with an ebay slider. This same guy has welded ears on other sliders with no issues.