The P11 thread

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Hi BillT
It was great to talk to you at Barber. I hope you solved your transmission problems. As I was leaving the INOA tent where I parted with you retracing the gearbox you were working on with your P11, I was looking into the gearbox cover with the LED flashlight... I saw something about the spring that was not quite right. I was pressed for time and had to go to the meeting place at CNW trailer for the Access Norton picture shoot. :idea: Thinking about it afterwards but not conveying the message to you I was wondering if you put the dogleg crank bend to the top instead of the bottom run. Did you check that?
That could be the reason the leg of the top run sliding off the notch. My guess anyway to the gears not meshing. I hope you got it.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
Hi
Thanks Thomas. Yes, I saw that the last time I put the cover on and reversed the hairpin spring. Everything worked fine from that point. I got almost nothing done I wanted to do on Saturday, but did get both bikes working again.
Among the several things that went wrong was my camera breaking, so I was only able to take pics on Sunday, mostly in the museum. Did get one yesterday afternoon after getting the bikes off the truck that came out pretty good:
The P11 thread


Next year will be better.
 
Great photograph Bill, You should also take one with your Commando included as well. A Grand Trio.
Regards,
Paul.
 
Hi Gents,
Can anyone tell me what tires are on the N15CS thats on the first page of this thread? Scroll down 14 from the top (one of the Adverts).
Does anyone use this type of tire on the P11?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
What is the proper width for the P-11 A handlebar? 32" or 34” I am trying to decipher this before I call one of the parts dealers. Is the cross brace flush with the top or 1” or so down?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
CNN
 
The original tires for the G15/N15 were Avon, but the patterns have been discontinued. The closest tire for road use would be the AM6/AM7 combination. I think Pirelli makes a knobby classic tire. The original specs for the P11 series tires were Dunlop K70, 3.25-19 front and 4.00-18 rear.

I used the AM6 3.50-19 front and AM7 4.00-18 rear on both the Ranger and G15CS.

The handlebar for a '68 would have the cross brace about 1" down, and the overall width would be 31-32"

Here's a scan of a couple of brochures showing the P11, Ranger, N15 and Atlas with specs:

http://archives.jampot.dk/Promotional/Sales_Brochures/B_Post-war/1968_=M=_G15CS_P11_Brochures.pdf
 
Since I bought my 67 P11 completely disassembled, I am looking for a little info on mounting my front wheel. Looks like the brake lever goes on the left. On the right side then, I think I am missing some type of washer that would act as a spacer between the front fork and the wheel hub.
I will include a picture.
The P11 thread
 
There is a chromed steel (tin) dust cover.
Perhaps someone can quote the part number - Commando ones will be different ?
 
This is an AMC hub.
There is no dust cover on this bike like a Norton hub would have. Instead, there are three pieces that fit between the bearing and that nut - an oil seal, a felt seal, and an oil seal cup (washer with a recess for the seal). There is no spacer between the nut and the fork, the fork has the cap that clamps on to the spindle.

There are no pictures of this, but you can find a picture of the earlier front hub at jampot.dk - look in the manual section and open the 1955-1965 twins manual by F.W. Neill. He also describes the procedure for hub tear down and assembly for the hub you have.

AMC changed the front hub in 1963 from a tapered roller bearing setup to journal roller bearings. This became known as the 'interim' hub. The manual I referenced doesn't show this hub, but the outer parts look similar to the earlier hub which is pictured, except the tapered bearings also get a flat washer between the seal and the bearing race.

The rear hub is the same as in this manual, but there's a better reference piece in jampot's technical section under wheels and brakes.

I'm surprised to see the dust cover on that hub - P11s came with no cover, though P11As and Rangers did. Then again, I think the cover looks better.

Someone else may have a picture of the assembly. I looked through my build file, but didn't take any of the front hub - I guess it looked pretty straightforward so I didn't bother.

And yes, the brake goes on the left (primary) side of the bike, as opposed to the right side on a drum brake Norton
 
Thanks Bill. What is confusing to me is that the nut in the picture is about flush with the hub so that when I bolt it into the fork, the hub is brushing up against the fork. Something has to keep the fork from touching the hub.
 
Time Warp said:
What do the P11 owners think of this bike that has come up for auction on AU eBay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1967-Norton- ... 1e838ffde1
Click to expand...

Definitely looks the real deal. They photoshopped the last two digits off the picture of the engine case, but that number is from the last batch of P11s, built around March of '67. No P11 came with a magneto, but the advertiser's claim that many replaced the distributor with a magneto is true, especially if the machine was raced - distributors were still pretty new at the time, and the reliability an unknown quantity. Very little on this bike looks incorrect.

The number on the frame should match the serial on the engine - 1227xx. The number on the trans will have a different number, likely a letter or two followed by 5 numbers, like N 10200, or MA 10200
 
BillT said:
The number on the trans will have a different number, likely a letter or two followed by 5 numbers, like N 10200, or MA 10200
Click to expand...

The number on the bike in question has P11 xxxxxx.

An AMC box with N10200 is a different shape to an AMC box with MA10200, so one of those possibilities sure isn't right...
So did the P11 take a Norton type box, or the Matchless type box.
Its a Matchless frame, so it would be the MA type box ??
 
Rohan said:
BillT said:
The number on the trans will have a different number, likely a letter or two followed by 5 numbers, like N 10200, or MA 10200
Click to expand...

The number on the bike in question has P11 xxxxxx.

An AMC box with N10200 is a different shape to an AMC box with MA10200, so one of those possibilities sure isn't right...
So did the P11 take a Norton type box, or the Matchless type box.
Its a Matchless frame, so it would be the MA type box ??
Click to expand...

Yes, Rohan. 67 and 68 P11s were all stamped P11/12xxxx on the crank case and 12xxxx on the frame, left front of the headstock. Gearboxes had different serial numbers, and I thought they were all labeled with one or two letters, followed by five numbers, and occasionally a letter at the end. I just looked at a P11 database, and saw that most P11 gearboxes were apparently stamped P111xxxx. The gearbox is an AMC-shape, with the mounting bosses set at about 4-o'clock instead of the 6-o'clock of a Norton box. The box on my G15 (also AMC-shaped) is stamped NA19019G (yes, NA, not MA). The box on my Ranger has no prefix, and is stamped with the same serial as the engine and frame, with the suffix 'S' on the end, hence 1289xxS. The G15 has the number stamped on the top of the case, oriented front to back. the Ranger has the number stamped on the inner cover, starting just above the flange for the two exposed case studs and ending before the boss on the outer cover where the cable enters the box.
 
I have these few days off for our Thanksgiving holiday, so I spent yesterday tweaking the stable and riding them around. Went over to a local park yesterday and snapped these photos:
The P11 thread

The P11 thread

The P11 thread


Rode the Ranger around for about an hour and a half - what a pleasure this thing is!

Also rode the G15 around for a while to continue the shakedown. I'm posting pics on that thread, too. :)
 
I am currently restoring a "68" P-11 Ranger and am in need of lower end Main bearings and am having some difficulty locating any. Does anyone know of a reliable source for them as the crank is 'stuck' and I'm sure they will need replacing.

Thanks
Randy
 
Same as any but a Mk III Commando . Superblend barreled rollers . ' 1 or 2 ' threads on them on the Commando page .

Unless you want More Power , as ball races have lower drag . If you rev the snot out of it the crank flex kills the races .
So if itll only get 5.000 miles in youre lifetime , ball races might be o.k. CHEAP ones wouldnt .
 
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