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swooshdave said:
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'72 Interstate Restoration
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Let's go easy on the lying bit eh Swoosh, at worst it might be considered a sin of omission, and even that not deliberate. At least don't tell mum - ok?
Matt, you can file the flat and then drill and tap the collars yourself. You only need a file, drill press and drill bit and the appropriate tap. Heck I assumed all Norton owners would at least have access to these things.
If you don't want to do it now Matt, at least drill the holes as DogT says.
Matt, you can file the flat and then drill and tap the collars yourself. You only need a file, drill press and drill bit and the appropriate tap. Heck I assumed all Norton owners would at least have access to these things.
If you don't want to do it now Matt, at least drill the holes as DogT says.
DogT
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Here's the procedure post146569.html
My local Ace hardware has the split collars, but I don't know if they're the right size. I know McMaster has them, don't have the number.
It's not that big a deal, not even sure you need a drill press, but it would be nice. It will solve the loose spindle forever.
Dave
69S
My local Ace hardware has the split collars, but I don't know if they're the right size. I know McMaster has them, don't have the number.
It's not that big a deal, not even sure you need a drill press, but it would be nice. It will solve the loose spindle forever.
Dave
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Thanks guys,
Looks like "WIndy" makes them too. Does this mean he taps the holes in the clamps for the locking screws? Also, what is the file/milling for, is it the cradle that is milled to create a recess for the clamps to rest in? I was under the impression that two holes were drilled in the cradle tube and the clamps were installed and the locking screws were tightened down. I had no idea there was milling involved
Looks like "WIndy" makes them too. Does this mean he taps the holes in the clamps for the locking screws? Also, what is the file/milling for, is it the cradle that is milled to create a recess for the clamps to rest in? I was under the impression that two holes were drilled in the cradle tube and the clamps were installed and the locking screws were tightened down. I had no idea there was milling involved
swooshdave said:
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Matt,
There is no milling required with these clamps.If you can get them from Windy,I think all you will have to do is drill 2
holes in the swing-arm.He will probably will send you instructions as to location.If he does not sell these,McMasters-Carr
has them,but you will have to drill and tap 1/4-28 the collar for the locking screw.It still makes this process a breeze
with the swing-arm off the bike.If you go to the INOA site,click on tech tips.there are the instructions to look at.
YING
There is no milling required with these clamps.If you can get them from Windy,I think all you will have to do is drill 2
holes in the swing-arm.He will probably will send you instructions as to location.If he does not sell these,McMasters-Carr
has them,but you will have to drill and tap 1/4-28 the collar for the locking screw.It still makes this process a breeze
with the swing-arm off the bike.If you go to the INOA site,click on tech tips.there are the instructions to look at.
YING
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rvich
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The installation of the clamps requires that you remove the rear wheel, remove the spindle/swingarm, drill some holes, and assemble.
Windy would probably email you the directions if you want to read them. I bought my clamps from Windy for two reasons. One is that I spend enough time making things instead of getting the bike on the road already. Second is that my philosophy includes that I should spend money to support the lifestyle I want, which in this case includes supporting enthusiast-builder-manufacturers. As I am really glad there is a community of support products. (My little effort to change the world).
This is a simple enough process that you could easily save it for next winter if you are trying to be ready for spring. It would not be a bad idea to get the bike back on the lift next winter and do a thorough inspection anyway. I would urge you to do the rear wheel wiggle and see what your chain does. You will know when you watch your chain stretch whether it will freak you out to ride it like that!
Russ
Windy would probably email you the directions if you want to read them. I bought my clamps from Windy for two reasons. One is that I spend enough time making things instead of getting the bike on the road already. Second is that my philosophy includes that I should spend money to support the lifestyle I want, which in this case includes supporting enthusiast-builder-manufacturers. As I am really glad there is a community of support products. (My little effort to change the world).
This is a simple enough process that you could easily save it for next winter if you are trying to be ready for spring. It would not be a bad idea to get the bike back on the lift next winter and do a thorough inspection anyway. I would urge you to do the rear wheel wiggle and see what your chain does. You will know when you watch your chain stretch whether it will freak you out to ride it like that!
Russ
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Well, looks like the most likely, and the easiest place to get these collars is from your local transmission supply shop, same place you might buy bearings etc. I will stop by the nearest one to me tomorrow and grab a pair of 1 1/8'' collars if they have them, which their website says they should. Drill some holes and maybe have the thing mounted before too long...keeping my fingers crossed. They shouldnt be too expensive.
As for tapping the holes for the locking bolt. Ive never tapped a hole before I must admit, however I have some taps and if I dont have the right size, I should be able to get some fairly easily. A question for you guys though, what size hole should I drill for the lock bolt if I use the suggested 1/4 - 28 locking bolt? What about the hole in the cradle is that 17/64'' if i have remembered correctly?
And Swoosh, I read your spindle thread. The installation at 7 oclock doesnt make sense to me either. In the end is it really just for clearance of the swing arm? My spindle has flats milled at 90 degrees to the locating bolt on top so it doesnt make sense to drill at 7, but rather at 9. Can anyone tell me why?
Matt
As for tapping the holes for the locking bolt. Ive never tapped a hole before I must admit, however I have some taps and if I dont have the right size, I should be able to get some fairly easily. A question for you guys though, what size hole should I drill for the lock bolt if I use the suggested 1/4 - 28 locking bolt? What about the hole in the cradle is that 17/64'' if i have remembered correctly?
swooshdave said:
And Swoosh, I read your spindle thread. The installation at 7 oclock doesnt make sense to me either. In the end is it really just for clearance of the swing arm? My spindle has flats milled at 90 degrees to the locating bolt on top so it doesnt make sense to drill at 7, but rather at 9. Can anyone tell me why?
Matt
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mattthomas4444 said:
Tell you why what? It's all there in the thread.
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swooshdave said:
It looks like you drilled yours at 9 oclock, correct? But no one did explain why 7 oclock is suggested in the instructions. Seems like 9 oclock would be best to get a flush fit against the flats, unless, is the top centre locating screw even used? If it is not, then it would make sense that the spindle turns as the locking bolts tighten and it becomes flush to the 7 oclock position. Is that what you did? Sorry, but for some reason it wasnt clear to me in the other thread.
Thanks,
Matt
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mattthomas4444 said:
I believe the original reason for the 7 o'clock position was to clear the swingerm, note that I used button head screws to insure clearance.
Also I believe that when the clamp concept was originated the "combo" spindles (tapped top hole and flats to fit the pre-MkIIIs and the MkIIIs) didn't exist so the theory was to place the clamps to clear the swing arm.
With the flats it was clear to me to take advantage of them and place the screws there. Thus at 9 o'clock.
Just make sure you clear the swing arm and you'll be fine.
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Hey, thanks a lot Dave. That cleared it all up for me.
I'll keep you guys posted tomorrow on how much gets done.
Matt
I'll keep you guys posted tomorrow on how much gets done.
Matt
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No progress today unfortunately. I searched all over town for some split collar clamps, but of course every transmission shop would stock 1'' and 1 1/4'' but no 1 1/8''. So I have ordered some that will arrive at 9:30 monday morning.
I did buy a drill press today though. A small 10'' bench top model normally $200 on sale for $80 brand new. Ill put it to use in a couple days to drill the clamps and swing arm. Tomorrow, I am going to try and get the spindle to fit into the tight bushing by honing or reaming the bushing out. Would like to try a reamer, but I dont have one that is the right size, so I will probably end up using a hone on it. Just take off a little bit at a time then check for a correct fit.
Matt
I did buy a drill press today though. A small 10'' bench top model normally $200 on sale for $80 brand new. Ill put it to use in a couple days to drill the clamps and swing arm. Tomorrow, I am going to try and get the spindle to fit into the tight bushing by honing or reaming the bushing out. Would like to try a reamer, but I dont have one that is the right size, so I will probably end up using a hone on it. Just take off a little bit at a time then check for a correct fit.
Matt
when I make up the collars the flat is milled to give the jam nut a flat surface to set on. on the 7 o clock you can have clearance issues with the swingarm unless you use a bolt JUST long enough to lock the pin. as to the pin most new ones are a universal pin to fit ALL models. the flats are for the MK3 cotters that Norton did to finally fix this issue. you can simply turn the pin around so the flats face forward and put the jack bolts at the 7 o clock position.
mattthomas4444 said:
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bill said:
So i can put the lock bolts on the other side of the tube, away from the swing arm and just line up the flats in the spindle to it. This would mean that I would go without the top center bolt/screw that the early models used, because it would no longer line up to its hole?
Matt
that is not the way I stated it. put the pin in with the flats facing forward and the small bolt to the top. the pin is also threaded on one end that NORMALY is on the timing side it will now face the primary side. the clamps will still go at the 7 o clock position.
mattthomas4444 said:
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Sorry I misunderstood. Thanks for the help, that seems like the option Ill take. Arent the flats milled at 90 degrees to the top hole, so if the top hole lines up with the hole in the cradle, then the flats are at 9 oclock, or am I wrong and they are milled to line up at 7 when the top holes line up?
Sorry for so many stupid questions.
Matt
Sorry for so many stupid questions.
Matt
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bill said:
I've proven that you can use the flats to lock the bolts against. It's illogical to try to flip the flats around that push the bolts against the round area. I don't know why Bill keeps insisting on not using the flats.
All it takes is using the right size bolts.
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I was under the impression that you were supposed to use the flats all the time. It seems like using the flats would make everything much tighter and just a better option in general. Maybe not though. I do intend to use the flats though, you havent had any problems with yours eh Swoosh?
Matt
Matt
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