72 Interstate 750

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It needs a sufficient gap to drop the wheel off the drum sprocket paddles. That's if the problem, whatever it is, will allow the wheel and drum sprocket assemblies to separate.
OK. I don't see what other option I have at this point. I also don't understand the clunking sound when rotating approximately once every revolution.
 
OK. I don't see what other option I have at this point. I also don't understand the clunking sound when rotating approximately once every revolution.
Try tightening it. If it won't tighten, then it's clear that it's broken or stripped. If stripped, keeping tightening, preferably with an air wrench until it spins freely (wear out the remaining threads). If you cut it, you may have trouble getting it out of the hub and it will be more expensive to sort out. If it's stripped and stuck in the dummy axel, you may not be able to separate the hub and drum.

If you have a welder, you can weld a piece of rebar to it and another piece to that to form a "T" handle. Then feet on the swingarm and wheel while twisting and pulling.
 
Yes , this is a total teardown after all those years.
All new rubber.
New metal tank.
New drive train.
New layshaft bearing.
New this that and the other.
BIG credit card.
Good luck and proceed.
 
Try tightening it. If it won't tighten, then it's clear that it's broken or stripped. If stripped, keeping tightening, preferably with an air wrench until it spins freely (wear out the remaining threads). If you cut it, you may have trouble getting it out of the hub and it will be more expensive to sort out. If it's stripped and stuck in the dummy axel, you may not be able to separate the hub and drum.

If you have a welder, you can weld a piece of rebar to it and another piece to that to form a "T" handle. Then feet on the swingarm and wheel while twisting and pulling.
We used your advice somewhat and a knowledgeable Norton neighbor built a giant slide hammer that we bolted to the axle head. Unfortunately it still would not budge so we cut the axle approx. 1/4" from the speedo gearbox and were able to remove the whole assembly for rebuilding.
 
that'll learn it !

if youve a tame aerospace engineer , a custom set up would improve it . Suppose a NASCAR engineer'd do .
Std thread looks like a coach bolt to me . TRIUMPHS had fine threads . Co Incidently the TRIUMPH CONICAL
rear whell , is a Norton MANX Rip Off . The 75 with the Cup - Fema;le thread Brg Retainers best . As is the early
one piece axle . But its for a open ended swing arm axle slot . Std. on it is similar Q.D. set up . Why Not ! .
 
Now that the rear wheel is back on I am having clearance issues with the chain with this fat rear tire. I'm guessing I have the standard 530 chain. Would a 520 O-ring or non O-ring chain be narrower?
 
Now that the rear wheel is back on I am having clearance issues with the chain with this fat rear tire. I'm guessing I have the standard 530 chain. Would a 520 O-ring or non O-ring chain be narrower?
The rollers are 1/4" rather than 3/8" but the overall width of an O- or X-Ring chain is only slightly smaller than a standard 530 chain. A plain 520 might give you 1/16".
 
Thanks Greg! The tire installed is a 130/90-16. I think I am going to have a narrower tire put on. These sprockets don't have too many miles left either so I will upgrade the chain at that time.
 
I have decided to go with a 19" rear rim at end of season but all I see is WM2/19. Can someone point me in the right direction to find a WM3? I will have it restrung locally vs sending out to Buchanan.
 
You can get the rim and spokes from Buchanan and have it strung locally

BTW, here's my journey. Some lessons learned (and still learning :rolleyes:). I went with WM4 18" rear and WM3 19" front rims. They seem well suited for 110 and 120 tires. I do not recomending stringing them yourself or putting the tires on.

 
You can get the rim and spokes from Buchanan and have it strung locally

BTW, here's my journey. Some lessons learned (and still learning :rolleyes:). I went with WM4 18" rear and WM3 19" front rims. They seem well suited for 110 and 120 tires. I do not recomending stringing them yourself or putting the tires on.

Did you get the WM4 18" from Buchanan?
 
Cuppy, wheel builds are expensive. My advice is to research what tyres, and in what sizes, you wish to run. Then purchase rims accordingly. Most tyre companies will tell you what rim widths their tyres are designed for and what the min / max allowance is. You don’t have to guess.
 
Cuppy, wheel builds are expensive. My advice is to research what tyres, and in what sizes, you wish to run. Then purchase rims accordingly. Most tyre companies will tell you what rim widths their tyres are designed for and what the min / max allowance is. You don’t have to guess.
FE,
Earlier in this thread it was suggested lacing an 18" WM3 rim as it will provide a wider selection of tire choices. That's likely the route I will take. I really don't know what a good tyre size is for the rear. Front has the original Dunlop 4.10 H19.
 
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Buchanan's has several choices in WM3/19,
Sun, Excel and Borrani..

You can buy from them without having them lace it if you wish.
 
Can anyone explain or comment on where the stock mirror would have been mounted? Here are a few pics of how mine is now mounted on LH and I see no way for RH mounting. There is an approx. 8mm hole through clutch handle but can't find a suitable mirror to fit.
What do most do?
72 Interstate 750
72 Interstate 750
 
OK. With a caliper I measure the hole at .30". I have 3 or 4 new mirrors that measure .38" which I am thinking is a standard size (3/8").

The normal stem thread was 3/8" UNF so you could tap the hole 3/8" UNF.
"Tapping Drill Size 8.5 mm, 0.3346 inch"

For the right-hand side, you'd have to find a later master cylinder with the threaded mount...
...or fit a bar-mounted mirror as you have on the left-hand side.
 
The normal stem thread was 3/8" UNF so you could tap the hole 3/8" UNF
"Tapping Drill Size 8.5 mm, 0.3346 inch"

For the right-hand side, you'd have to find a later master cylinder with the threaded mount...
...or fit a bar-mounted mirror as you have on the left-hand side.
Thank you! Very helpful.
 
Thank you! Very helpful.
Les, you mention the normal stem thread was 3/8" UNF (24 tpi) but I am measuring a stem thread of 3/8" 20 tpi on the 4 new mirrors I have which seems to be an unusual thread count.
 
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