72 Interstate 750

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Looking at the pictures I would be suspicious of the 5000 miles claim.

Without knowing its history there are a few potential failures that most, if not all, Combats suffer.

1 The main bearings. Mine failed at 4000 miles but others lasted a bit longer. They don't fail dramatically. You hear a rumble develop.

2 The tops come off the slotted pistons. These will almost certainly fail at some stage and can fail dramatically.

3 The layshaft bearing fails. Some will do a high mileage without failing but can be a dramatic fail when they do. You sometimes have a warning when the kickstart swings down as you pull away.

Sorry to be so pessimistic but it's better to know what may happen unless you satisfy yourself of its condition.
"Looking at the pictures I would be suspicious of the 5000 miles claim."
I thought it was unusual for a 50 year old bike.

"1 The main bearings. Mine failed at 4000 miles but others lasted a bit longer. They don't fail dramatically. You hear a rumble develop."
I'm hoping the bearings were changed under factory warranty but point taken they should be checked.

"2 The tops come off the slotted pistons. These will almost certainly fail at some stage and can fail dramatically."e
I had not heard this. I assume that would mean new pistons and rings?

"3 The layshaft bearing fails. Some will do a high mileage without failing but can be a dramatic fail when they do. You sometimes have a warning when the kickstart swings down as you pull away."
I am aware of this and may attempt replacement on bike as L.A.B. successfully accomplished.

I am appreciative for all the input and need as much as I can get.
 
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Strip the rim from the hub and send the hub to http://www.buchananspokes.com/ They know Commandos and will do it right.

Get them to lace a 18" WM3. As LAB says, it offers you a wider choice in rear tires and the slightly wider (from WM2) rim fits modern tire profiles better.
Thanks for the input and I will take your advice. My hope is to ride with the 16" this season and perform recommended restoration steps over the winter.
 
I am always the one who says 'tear it down'. The reason is you can find issues you never ever considered. And if you strip the whole thing and find nothing wrong you now KNOW you are in good shape. Ignorance is not bliss.
If you are not really up to the learning curve you may be able to find someone on the list who is willing to come by and sort you out.
 
I am always the one who says 'tear it down'. The reason is you can find issues you never ever considered. And if you strip the whole thing and find nothing wrong you now KNOW you are in good shape. Ignorance is not bliss.
If you are not really up to the learning curve you may be able to find someone on the list who is willing to come by and sort you out.
I do not disagree. Summers are short here so a teardown is in the near future. I am up for the learning curve and am unaware of anyone in this state familiar with Nortons.
 
Congrats on finding what looks like a fairly unmolested bike. As others mentioned, there was an era of engines that had bearing failures that almost killed Norton before they actually did croak in 75/76 depending on what you read and where. There is a lot if info out there on that but essentially as the pistons go up and down at the same time it creates crank whip and the roller bearings ate into the race. They fixed it by using a barrel shaped roller that was more forgiving to the whip. Not a great selling point for them. There's quite a bit of information on-line about it but disassembling the engine and replacing the bearing(s) is not a job for the not mechanically inclined. There are a lot of Norton's out there with broken fins on the head because people didn't know there was a hidden bolt between the exhaust rocker cages. Thereupon the prybar came out and the rest is history. That's just one of the many things that defy your ability to understand British engineering. I've seen somewhere, probably on this site but it might have been a vendor, where they have a description of what engine numbers were affected. There is help out there and wisdom and also some stuff on YouTube. Resist the urge to force anything.

That being said I'm no authority on anything but I suspect you will hate your fiberglass tank before long. I've had two small Hi-Rider/S tanks on my latest bike, both meticulously cleaned and sealed with two of the major tank sealers recommended on this site and others only to have the ethanol leach out resins in the fiberglass and foul the carbs, valves, and pistons. The Amal pilot jets are notorious for fouling from that, causing afterfire and poor or non-existant idling. There is no "ethanol free" fuel anywhere within 100 miles of where I live although you can Google it for your state. I've purchased two metal tanks from India, the last being what they describe as an "American Seller" only to be gobsmacked at how poorly these are made despite looking good aesthetically. I recently found a factory tank on EBay and will be working that back to an acceptable condition as time allows. So anyhow, there will be times when you might question your sanity and might wonder if you're in over your head but those of us that love Norton understand the allure despite all that.

One final comment, I got my last Norton (this is my third) about five years ago. The guy I bought it from got it from his buddy and he didn't know much but he was adamant that all that was ever used in it was RedLine oil. I kind of thought well whatever but when I pulled the head and barrel on mine to remove the leached out resin that fouled everything, the pistons were stock and the barrel true and it made a believer out of me.
 
Congrats on finding what looks like a fairly unmolested bike. As others mentioned, there was an era of engines that had bearing failures that almost killed Norton before they actually did croak in 75/76 depending on what you read and where. There is a lot if info out there on that but essentially as the pistons go up and down at the same time it creates crank whip and the roller bearings ate into the race. They fixed it by using a barrel shaped roller that was more forgiving to the whip. Not a great selling point for them. There's quite a bit of information on-line about it but disassembling the engine and replacing the bearing(s) is not a job for the not mechanically inclined. There are a lot of Norton's out there with broken fins on the head because people didn't know there was a hidden bolt between the exhaust rocker cages. Thereupon the prybar came out and the rest is history. That's just one of the many things that defy your ability to understand British engineering. I've seen somewhere, probably on this site but it might have been a vendor, where they have a description of what engine numbers were affected. There is help out there and wisdom and also some stuff on YouTube. Resist the urge to force anything.

That being said I'm no authority on anything but I suspect you will hate your fiberglass tank before long. I've had two small Hi-Rider/S tanks on my latest bike, both meticulously cleaned and sealed with two of the major tank sealers recommended on this site and others only to have the ethanol leach out resins in the fiberglass and foul the carbs, valves, and pistons. The Amal pilot jets are notorious for fouling from that, causing afterfire and poor or non-existant idling. There is no "ethanol free" fuel anywhere within 100 miles of where I live although you can Google it for your state. I've purchased two metal tanks from India, the last being what they describe as an "American Seller" only to be gobsmacked at how poorly these are made despite looking good aesthetically. I recently found a factory tank on EBay and will be working that back to an acceptable condition as time allows. So anyhow, there will be times when you might question your sanity and might wonder if you're in over your head but those of us that love Norton understand the allure despite all that.

One final comment, I got my last Norton (this is my third) about five years ago. The guy I bought it from got it from his buddy and he didn't know much but he was adamant that all that was ever used in it was RedLine oil. I kind of thought well whatever but when I pulled the head and barrel on mine to remove the leached out resin that fouled everything, the pistons were stock and the barrel true and it made a believer out of me.
Thank you for your input and I kind of figured I may be in for major work. I admit that I am not very familiar with British engineering but I like to do meticulous research before attempting anything new. I do consider myself quite mechanically inclined regarding engines I just need to take it slow as you suggest.
 
There's quite a bit of information on-line about it but disassembling the engine and replacing the bearing(s) is not a job for the not mechanically inclined...

...I've seen somewhere, probably on this site but it might have been a vendor, where they have a description of what engine numbers were affected.

The original R&M/RHP 6/MRJA30 known as 'Superblend' main bearings (the rollers are not actually "barrel-shaped") were fitted from serial number 211891 (Combat production having ended at 211110) replacing the previous MRJA30 roller bearings.

Much info. here:


The 6/MRJA30 bearing was superseded by the FAG NJ306E which continues to be the standard replacement.
 
I am up for the learning curve and am unaware of anyone in this state familiar with Nortons.

There are quite a few Norton owners up here (I'm in New Hampshire), joining the New England Norton Owners club (NENO) will go a long way towards networking parts and labor suppliers.
 
Update on current mileage. It presently has 12,000 + miles not 5000. I must have taken the seller's word and never verified.

That being said, is it likely the main bearings have been replaced?
 
There are quite a few Norton owners up here (I'm in New Hampshire), joining the New England Norton Owners club (NENO) will go a long way towards networking parts and labor suppliers.
Thanks Mike G. I certainly will.
 
Excellent article L.A.B. Thanks!!

Credit, however, must go to Andy Heathwood, Jim Comstock and others. :)

It presently has 12,000 + miles not 5000.

That being said, is it likely the main bearings have been replaced?


A fair chance but no more than that.
With the drive side oil seal removed (or crankshaft worm gear, pinion, plate and dished washer removed from the timing side) then it might be possible to identify the bearing type.
 
If I may add my two cents: Change oils flush oil tank clean or replace carbs Get it running ,enjoy it, fix what needs fixing as they appear. Your not going to rev it to 9000. Parts are available every day!
 
If I may add my two cents: Change oils flush oil tank clean or replace carbs Get it running ,enjoy it, fix what needs fixing as they appear. Your not going to rev it to 9000. Parts are available every day!
Thanks mean gene. That is exactly my plan. I do want the bike to be reliable enough to not have to be nervous going for a ride.
 
If there is doubt about the pistons and main bearings, it is worth re-building the motor and inspecting everything inside it as you go. Do not end up with a completely disassembled group of parts. Treat the crank, rods and pistons as one sub assembly, and the head and barrels as another.
It does not take long to go through a motor, but you probably need a Clymer maintenance manual if you have never had an engine apart previously. I have one somewhere and I think I read it once. It is worth reading before you start, then the job will be more straight forward. If you get stuck, you can always ask for help, but do not rush or force anything
 
I would not use a motor with those slotted pistons inside it. If they let go, you cannot easily just go and buy another motor. I would at least look and see if they are there. The main bearings are worth replacing anyway.
My motor is a Mk2A 850 but if it was a Combat 750, I would be much more careful about running it without checking it. I have a 2S Combat cam which I have not used It has much more lift and more radical timings. If I ever put it in my motor, I will be checking valve clearances and pushrod angles very carefully. The Combat had reliability problems, but if it is done right, it is probably OK.
 
If there is doubt about the pistons and main bearings, it is worth re-building the motor and inspecting everything inside it as you go. Do not end up with a completely disassembled group of parts. Treat the crank, rods and pistons as one sub assembly, and the head and barrels as another.
It does not take long to go through a motor, but you probably need a Clymer maintenance manual if you have never had an engine apart previously. I have one somewhere and I think I read it once. It is worth reading before you start, then the job will be more straight forward. If you get stuck, you can always ask for help, but do not rush or force anything
I have on order the Roy Bacon book on restoration as recommended by a member here. I do know my way around an engine just not a Norton engine.
 
I would not use a motor with those slotted pistons inside it. If they let go, you cannot easily just go and buy another motor. I would at least look and see if they are there. The main bearings are worth replacing anyway.
My motor is a Mk2A 850 but if it was a Combat 750, I would be much more careful about running it without checking it. I have a 2S Combat cam which I have not used It has much more lift and more radical timings. If I ever put it in my motor, I will be checking valve clearances and pushrod angles very carefully. The Combat had reliability problems, but if it is done right, it is probably OK.
I do plan on checking the pistons. Can the slotted pstons be identified by simply pulling the head? I'm guessing not if they were behind the oil control rings.

Also, this comment by L.A.B. earlier in this thread...
"206709" should at least have the stronger pistons (without the slots behind the oil control rings introduced from 204166).
 
Can the slotted pstons be identified by simply pulling the head?

Check for markings/numbers on the piston crowns.
If marked 063348 (LH) and 063349 (RH) if 'standard' bore size (in which case there can be an 'A' or 'B' bore grade stamp) then they should be the later pistons. Probably also a Hepolite 'ID??' mark.
 
This is the good piston, still got a slot but not completely from one side to the other.

72 Interstate 750


Out of an engine in the 206XXX range but at 20 over its not factory fit.
 
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