72 Interstate 750

cash said:

The petrol tank is probably fibreglass and if you're going to keep it perhaps you should get it treated first. To get the bike running the remote can and tube will do the trick.

Click to expand...

I have found that metal tanks and side covers are readily available and plan on going that route eventually. The present tank has never seen ethanol fuel and I have access to non-ethanol within 25 miles so I should be able to get by for now.

Cuppy said:

I have found that metal tanks and side covers are readily available

Click to expand...

Note that the 850 Mk2A and Mk3 Interstate (and Roadster) LH/battery access side covers have different attachment points and fasteners to the 750 also 850 Mk1 and Mk2 Interstate, although they can be modified to fit.
The Mk2A and Mk3 LH covers also do not have the tool tray attached to the inside of the cover.

Im thinking it looks like its been a long term owner , ' sorted ' machine ?

In one persons hands & doing ' Some ' regular milage , theyre normally ' dialed in ' to a degree , according to use .

So checking it wont kill you before you take a few easy miles on it , and get to know it ,

IF IT HAS NO OBVIOUS MECHANICAL FAULTS , might be the best place to start ( Aving only looked at the picture & not read sfa of the thread .
time

Owner Tunersimpressed less with appearance may well be mechanically virtuoso's , so if its running right , DONT MUCK IT UP .

asin if the last owners done over 5.000 miles on it , it cant be a dog , & dont make it one . tinsel is decoration . Looks pretty COOL as it is .

Decorationshould be last on the list , if its onit atall . In my book . Spend time with it & learn from it . Dont hack away at it . show Respect ! ! .

Matt Spencer said:

Im thinking it looks like its been a long term owner , ' sorted ' machine ?

In one persons hands & doing ' Some ' regular milage , theyre normally ' dialed in ' to a degree , according to use .

So checking it wont kill you before you take a few easy miles on it , and get to know it ,

IF IT HAS NO OBVIOUS MECHANICAL FAULTS , might be the best place to start ( Aving only looked at the picture & not read sfa of the thread .
time

Owner Tunersimpressed less with appearance may well be mechanically virtuoso's , so if its running right , DONT MUCK IT UP .

asin if the last owners done over 5.000 miles on it , it cant be a dog , & dont make it one . tinsel is decoration . Looks pretty COOL as it is .

Decorationshould be last on the list , if its onit atall . In my book . Spend time with it & learn from it . Dont hack away at it . show Respect ! ! .

Click to expand...

Thanks for that input Matt. I am hoping much has been previously sorted but somewhat concerned regarding pistons, main bearings and layshaft bearing.

Cuppy said:

I have found that metal tanks and side covers are readily available and plan on going that route eventually. The present tank has never seen ethanol fuel and I have access to non-ethanol within 25 miles so I should be able to get by for now.

Click to expand...

Good plan. I tried to make my ‘72 fiberglass roadster tank ethanol proof using Caswell, POR and Ken Arman’s purple super carcinogenic stuff. All failed over time and I finally gave in buying a steel tank and matching side covers. The fiberglass parts are sitting in the attic storage.

I am now in need of more guidance... While trying to loosen the rear axle to attempt to fit a chain, found axle will rotate but will not loosen in order to shift the rear wheel. There is a clunking noise when turning. Will I need to somehow cut the axle and try to dismantle with brake hub removed?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Cuppy said:

While trying to loosen the rear axle to attempt to fit a chain, found axle will rotate but will not loosen in order to shift the rear wheel. There is a clunking noise when turning.

Click to expand...

Your previous picture shows there's no nut on the LH (dummy axle) side.

Without the nut being there and tightened then the whole assembly is probably rotating in which case the axle won't unscrew and the clunking noise is likely to be the flats of the dummy axle jumping in and out of the swingarm slot as it rotates.

Cuppy said:

I have since installed the LH nut. Can you recommend the next step? It has also been tightened snuggly.

Click to expand...

If the dummy axle is locked to the swingarm then there shouldn't be anything preventing the axle unscrewing from the dummy axle.

It may be an optical illusion, but it looks like the axle is bent. Could be broken and stuck in the bearing. Like L.A.B. said, as long as the dummy axel is not turning the axel should come out - it screws into the dummy axel. You could possibly cut it next to the swingarm and next to the speedo drive and get enough clearance to get it out, but that should be a
LAST ditch effort.

I do not disagree and had a fairly knowledgeable Norton guy here today and wasn't sure what to do other than cutting the axle on RH side.

marshg246 said:

It may be an optical illusion, but it looks like the axle is bent. Could be broken and stuck in the bearing. Like L.A.B. said, as long as the dummy axel is not turning the axel should come out - it screws into the dummy axel. You could possibly cut it next to the swingarm and next to the speedo drive and get enough clearance to get it out, but that should be a
LAST ditch effort.

Click to expand...

I may be at the "last ditch effort. The dummy axle is not turning. Maybe the threads are stripped internally. Axle did not seem bent to us today.

Cuppy said:

Maybe the threads are stripped internally.

Click to expand...

Have you tried attaching grips and then pulling the axle as you turn it?

Have not. I will give that a try.

I have experience with the axle binding inside the speedometer drive. As above grip the axle and pull while unscrewing.

Salubriously . plus

Equals ,

And an old towel . on standby . Justincase .

One of those jobs you need two pairs of eyes , to observe both ends . DO YOU HAVE A MANUAL . ?

A bleedy great 5 or 10 Lb copper or nylon hammer sometimes dosnt hurt . Along with old bolts or alloy bars for DRIFT s .

but a few ' heat cycles ' , wiped first - inflamables . CRC / WD 40 while its sub flash point temp , & it wicks in .

THINGS like the header clamps , and all big bolts on old cars , benifit from this . Saves bandages & sticking plasters too .
The olde ' look where your fist will go , when it slips , helps here too . ( Hence the big mallet - S H O C K - like a impact driver.
or air gun / ratchet . )

Well aligned ring spanner - and a fair swing . Can Snap cheap wrenches ! .The disembursing the thoughts of negative perceptions helps to .
Plan & AIM .

Like that 16 in rear , good touring set up , & traction ! not to mention improoved ground clearance leaned over .

P. S.

you can really lean on those nuts , with decent spanners & sockets . Firm Fit & or six point .
Contiual use on disassembling old stuff stretches them .
So a reserved ' engine shop ' set for final assembly isnt a bad idea .

Put the BOOT IN .


On a axle nut , a spanner tapped on , and a free shot with your heel , is often the best approah . Like on tight car wheel nuts .
as long as nothing slips . dont put your shin into anything it disagrees with .

i.e. Tapping that nut firm , with a large clout hammer , mallet , a feeww feet of 4 x 3 , or a dead frozen cat by the tail -
Then same process reversed on the other end - axle shaft . One of the least impressive Norton Componets , to my eye .

But getting ' penetrating lube ' into the threads , eases things along no end . Wouldnt be without it . ( after several 3/8 N.F.
bolt - nut combos rusted growling howing and snapping - causing trouble - Were never without hitting fastners a few days or weeks
prior to approaching the spanners . Halves dissasembly time & usually eliminates cork ups requireing hours where threads & fastners
got argumentative .

The quick blast of heat - to 100 deg. - where a wet hand flicked at it the drops spit and hiss , helps . but FIRE PREVENTION MEASURES
are MANDATORY . even with a disc grinder . FUMES on a warm day can ignite and TRAVEL to source . The next thing the gas tank blows .

So a degree of order , observation & common sense is reqd . Lots of old paper or carpet under to toss out , or your concrette or lawn is marred .



Sort of the Kung Fo approach . Clear the mind & use unimpaired force !

Matt Spencer said:

you can really lean on those nuts , with decent spanners & sockets . Firm Fit & or six point .


Put the BOOT IN .

Click to expand...

However, Cuppy said: "...found axle will rotate but will not loosen..." so it is already turning.
If it isn't the dummy axle rotating then logically, the thread is either stripped but not letting go or the axle could be broken.

L.A.B. said:

However, Cuppy said: "...found axle will rotate but will not loosen..." so it is already turning.
If it isn't the dummy axle rotating then logically, the thread is either stripped but not letting go or the axle could be broken.

Click to expand...

I have tried everything I can think of shy of cutting the shaft. I pray if I cut it as close to the speedo gear as I can I will have enough room to remove the wheel. If that is successful, should I be able to sort it from there?

Cuppy said:

I pray if I cut it as close to the speedo gear as I can I will have enough room to remove the wheel. If that is successful, should I be able to sort it from there?

Click to expand...

It needs a sufficient gap to drop the wheel off the drum sprocket paddles. That's if the problem, whatever it is, will allow the wheel and drum sprocket assemblies to separate.