70 Roadster rebuild

Not sure if its made for the Intersate tank. I'm putting a Norvil petrol tank on it, so will have to shorten the seat by about 3 inches.

It's also wider than I'm used to, as I have a Corbin GF seat on my roadster, so will narrow it also.

Otherwise, quality and workmanship is good.

If you want measurements, happy to get the tape measure out and send you the details.

More progress:

Wheels on. New IWIS chain from AndyChain. Timing cover back on. Very happy with the polish job on the shiny bits.
Norvil tank - going to have some minor clearance issues with the yokes. It's LOOOONG - 620mm. Had to cut the seat length. It's currently at the upholsterer for recovering.


Shiny bits after a good polish. Norvil rear sets and Triumph style straight kick start lever.


Harley Dyna coil should do the job.


Stole an idea off here for indicators located just behind the seat knobs. These indicators are from the front of my 2011 Fatboy that I removed some time ago.


Primary back together with Norvil belt drive in place.


Exhaust headers and pipes still to install.


View from the top. I used the instruments from my Roadster and installed the RGM GPS speedo and tacho on that bike. They are NICE.


Clearance issues are not obvious or serious but there is a slight interference with the tank and yoke toward max turn on right and left. Tank design could be better thought through.


Still f*&king around fitting the centre stand spring. Funny how simple jobs can take up a lot of time.

All in all, getting there. Just waiting on a few bits and pieces eg light / horn switch before fitting the wiring harness. Some one else will do that. I'm not good with electrics.

Also waiting on rear fender mounts and Dzus brackets. Then paint.

I made a double 5" diameter loop of nickle plated wire and run it through a 3" section of 1/2" electrical conduit and twist the ends real well, then use that to pull the free end of the spring into position on the centerstand (or sidestand). I typically lay on a sheet of cardboard on the ground on the timing side, with the bike set on it's sidestand to pull that spring into place. Leverage with one foot on the front axle or somewhere...

I use GP's method except make loops of a couple heavy duty zip ties. Lay under the bike and pull the spring back into position. Then when the zip ties are trapped under the spring, you can cut them at the spring and pull the ends free.

Just checking out side panel fitment with the gas tank:









Not the clean lines I was hoping for. The angle between the bottom of the tank and the top of the side panel is not parallel. Not much I can do about this apart from reshaping the tank which would be a very costly exercise. Maybe a tank paint scheme that makes the tank appear parallel to the side cover will be the way to go.

The later side panels are shorter along the top line and have less angularity. They might look better due to the top line being more parallel to the bottom line of the tank.

Danno said:

The later side panels are shorter along the top line and have less angularity. They might look better due to the top line being more parallel to the bottom line of the tank.

Click to expand...

+1, I was thinking the same thing. I believe that fellow forum member swoosh dave has the same tank, with the new style side panels I'll look for his avatar to check it out.

p.s. search for the thread labeled "3D printed relay holder" it is one of Swoosh's threads and you can see a good shot of that same tank with the later side panl.

Called RGM to investigate. Later side panels won't fit as the RHS attaches to the later oil tank (I have the square central one) and the left has a tab at the bottom which will be problematic for this frame also.

I will try to paint the tank in a way that it gives a parallel appearance between the bottom of the tank and side panel.

freefly103 said:

Called RGM to investigate. Later side panels won't fit as the RHS attaches to the later oil tank (I have the square central one) and the left has a tab at the bottom which will be problematic for this frame also.

I will try to paint the tank in a way that it gives a parallel appearance between the bottom of the tank and side panel.

Click to expand...

I thought about that after I posted. Seems like there was a RH panel on some model that attached similarly to the older LH panel with a flat upper bracket and dzus fastener through the frame web. I know the flat brackets are available for the LH panel because dumbass me bought two, so I have a spare. I made the two-peg rear bracket on mine, which (incidentally) also mounts the hydraulic rear brake light switch that normally bolts to the back of the right Z-plate. Or, you could go with a single hole/rear peg bracket and an l-bracket and rubber bumper at the bottom to fit between THAT frame web and the top of the RH Z-plate.

I think it could be done with a little ingenuity.

I think I would try and make some custom panels out of sheet alloy or even plastic and use the stock frame brackets.
The panels are cosmetic only, they do not support anything else. And with flat panels you could get them closer in to the frame so that the tank is the widest part between the knees, not the side panels.

Just a thought. Some bikes that use that style central oil tank don't use any panels at all.

I think it might be possible to reshape the front top corners to give the side panels the look you want. The ignition switch hole might be an issue. I you trace out the panel on a piece of cardboard and tweet it to the shape you want I might show you if it is do-able.

The seat was too long for the Norvil tank. Had it shortened and re-covered in black. Looks good on the bike:















Side panels just don't work despite putting a fair amount of effort and expense into Dzus mounts etc. Had to sand back the panels to fix a crack with fibre glass repair kit. Colours underneath were bronze and green with the last colour orange. I think they've seen the inside of a few paint shops or at least the working end of a few rattle cans.

Thinking about fitting flat panels like the NYC Norton Schoolbus Bike.

Took the cutter to the side panel, then repaired the cut with a fibreglass kit. The fit is much better:







Matches the other side panel angle and gaps:


Cut the rear fend short to match the length of the rear hoop and installed a cafe style rear stop light:










Just about time to send it to paint.

Much better.

Bingo!
Well done sir.
A lot of effort that most folk will never notice.
But its worth it. You now know its right!

Thanks Fast Eddie.

Now just to find a spot to mount the ignition switch.

Nice job on the side panels, Joe. That's what I had to do to the Indian-made metal ones I bought, only a vertical cut and a wedge removed from each one. The kid who tig-welded them back together did a great job with zero heat warpage of the metal.

freefly103 said:

Thanks Fast Eddie.

Now just to find a spot to mount the ignition switch.

Click to expand...

Something like this might work hanging where the coil bracket was or off the frame tube somewhere else.

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/joke ... -2000-2015

One small bit of scrap aluminum (or mild steel) is all it takes. Drill two holes, bore the keyswitch hole, all set.

I did the same thing using the original bracket that had busted off the old ham can.

But he has those twin horns mounted there.