‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA

gortnipper said:
When I did mine, I just used a small fine machinists file to chamfer the inside edge a bit down the hole, and then some wet/dry in the tube. Came up sweet.
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You guys are smarter. I fashioned a number of sanding blocks/tubes to debur. Either I did what was necessary or that spindle is made of krypton.
 
o0norton0o said:
They do leak, so anything you can do to make them leak less might be a good thing. Certain people have used silicone sealant when they mount their kegler clamps to help stop leakage there. You could do the same thing with the end caps, except that if you make the whole system sealed then you can't pump the grease fitting (with oil btw, NOT grease) without popping the seal you've created with that silicone sealant.

Maybe this summer I'll look at sealing up that oiling system a little closer. My bike has been trouble free for a while. My ride to wrench ratio has been incredibly high, and I've been enjoying that rather than do the other modifications that are still on my list...
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Thanks.
Nice, new O-rings ‘should’ do the job if everything mates, you’d think.

Maybe loosening the center spindle screw might solve the pressure problem if ends are siliconed shut?

This is how my swingarm was when purchased. The cap was cocked a bit sideways, but no problem with a completely dry spindle housing.
‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA
 
BusDriver330 said:
Maybe loosening the center spindle screw might solve the pressure problem if ends are siliconed shut?
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I remember someone here suggesting removing the center bolt and fitting a hollow stud in it's place to mount a clear tube as a gravity fed filler tube for spindle lube. That would allow you to seal both ends of the spindle with solid caps and let air burp upward and out the filler tube via gravity and vibration, and be displaced by lube. The clear tube could be long enough to pull outward to fill when, and if, it empties. It would also allow you to easily check to see if the lubricant level was low...

... Or you could just ride around and pump some lube in there every now and then...:cool:
 
o0norton0o said:
I remember someone here suggesting removing the center bolt and fitting a hollow stud in it's place to mount a clear tube as a gravity fed filler tube for spindle lube. That would allow you to seal both ends of the spindle with solid caps and let air burp upward and out the filler tube via gravity and vibration, and be displaced by lube. The clear tube could be long enough to pull outward to fill when, and if, it empties. It would also allow you to easily check to see if the lubricant level was low...

... Or you could just ride around and pump some lube in there every now and then...:cool:
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That’s pretty ingenious. Hope it worked out ok for the original guy.

I can imagine the Norton engineers discussing this lube design that puts an oil source in line with the meat of the rear tire. Or a race tech guy looking at a little tube of oil in the middle of the swingarm, “Hmmm... can you safety wire that thing?”

I guess you could argue the Norton engine is a significant oil source to lightly coat the rear tire in oil:)
 
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The engine sure was a significant oil source to lightly coat almost my entire bike! 50 years, no rust.

Again, Frank's advice is probably best. Ride it and give it a squirt of oil now and then.
 
Swingarm buttoned up, no 140w leaks for now. Thanks for the wisdom.

Got a few more things fit like head steady, head bearings, yoke. edit- Deleted the previous caged roller bearings(which replaced the loose ball bearings), with tapered caged. Hopefully this will improve steering performance and maintenance. I will have some decent caged rollers if anyone needs ‘em.

‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


Took a look at some of the restomod, race bike threads and thought about deleting my thread. So not worthy with these geniuses here.
 
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I’m noticing a hierarchy defined by the tools most used.

Some are spending time on lathes, drill presses, using micrometers, digital rulers.

My main tools are degreaser, 320grit, steel wool, rust inhibitors, touchup paint. And I’d be lost without the AndoverN site:)

Looking forward to on track pics/vids, F’Eddie
 
BusDriver330 said:
I’m noticing a hierarchy defined by the tools most used.

Some are spending time on lathes, drill presses, using micrometers, digital rulers.

My main tools are degreaser, 320grit, steel wool, rust inhibitors, touchup paint. And I’d be lost without the AndoverN site:)

Looking forward to on track pics/vids, F’Eddie
Click to expand...

Those fellas with those tools are most likely involved in that line of work for a living (not ALL but I'd imagine a good amount) don't be intimidated. You're doing your bike justice with the tools you've got and the skill level you're at! Ain't that the heart of motorcycling?

P.S. most of us are in it for the pics, you don't need to be building a rocket ship to satisfy.
 
NPeteN said:
Those fellas with those tools are most likely involved in that line of work for a living (not ALL but I'd imagine a good amount) don't be intimidated. You're doing your bike justice with the tools you've got and the skill level you're at! Ain't that the heart of motorcycling?

P.S. most of us are in it for the pics, you don't need to be building a rocket ship to satisfy.
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Them’s some cool ‘rocket ships’, though.
 
Be careful with engine degreaser, it can remove beneficial grease around nuts and bolts, allowing water and other bad crap to seep in. Get a good fastener lubricant when you start bolting things back up.
 
Update for my ‘70.

I’ve officially been indoctrinated into the ‘Felt Washer Haters’ club. You would think in this day and age of safety, a warning label or California state ban at the least.

“Men over 60 and pregnant women should stay clear of inner primary felt washer installation”.

The ‘70 750 build will continue after fingers have healed.

Cheers
 
Fork fail!

In the process of refurbishing forks, I’ve experienced ‘circlip failure’ trying to slide hammer the bushing out.

Anyone have a correct method for bushing extraction from lower(slider)?

Thanks
 
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Time Warp said:
Once the threaded collar and lower damper bolt is removed there is only the seal,paper gasket and top bush all with a push fit.

Or the bottom bolt can be left in place and the damper released from the top fork cap, either way it should not take excessive force for the removal of the top bush and sundries unless there is a half a tube of WellSeal in there.

https://www.classicbikespares.com.au/norton/1975-commando-mk3-front-forks-steering-head-bearings/
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Thanks for that, Time Warp. But:

Everything went well with right fork. Lower bearing drives brass upper and seal out with no problem.

The left stanchion lost the circlip and lower bearing ‘inside’ slider. So now I need an inside bearing puller or similar to get the brass and seal out. If that doesn’t make sense, the lower bearing and circlip are rattling around in the slider with no fork tube attached.

I’ll try to get my hands on a large bearing puller I guess, or try to destroy the brass without destroying anything else.
 
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On a better note. I was able to drive the new lower yoke pinch bolts into the new AN lower yoke after ‘cutting and cleaning’ threads for about 20minutes.

I hope the original Norton factory workers didn’t have to clean out every thread to get bolts into parts.;)
 
I forgot to add for the person who removes the bushes next time stock or long RGM, it doesn't hurt to put some anti seize on the OD of the upper bush before installing it....

If you have the lower casting off you might be able to use a drift through the lower bolt hole to tap the bush upward but there is always the risk of damaging the bore surface.
Maybe a slide hammer with an end to get under the bush or maybe even heating the lot in the oven might help.
 
Time Warp said:
I forgot to add for the person who removes the bushes next time stock or long RGM, it doesn't hurt to put some anti seize on the OD of the upper bush before installing it....

If you have the lower casting off you might be able to use a drift through the lower bolt hole to tap the bush upward but there is always the risk of damaging the bore surface.
Maybe a slide hammer with an end to get under the bush or maybe even heating the lot in the oven might help.
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Thanks for the help. I’ll post the results if I’m able to extract successfully.

Otherwise, I hope no one notices a shiny new left slider on my 50year old Norton.

Good tip on the anti seize. Had to clean out black paint-like spots where the old brass was resting.
 
BusDriver330 said:
The left stanchion lost the circlip and lower bearing ‘inside’ slider. So now I need an inside bearing puller or similar to get the brass and seal out. If that doesn’t make sense, the lower bearing and circlip are rattling around in the slider with no fork tube attached.

I’ll try to get my hands on a large bearing puller I guess, or try to destroy the brass without destroying anything else.
Click to expand...



Cut slots in the bush with a hacksaw blade (in a holder or end wrapped with tape) until it either loosens or can be broken into pieces.

‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA



BusDriver330 said:
brass
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Sintered bronze ('Oilite').
 
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