1972 Roadster Rebuild - 750 Combat

o0norton0o said:
Re the spindle upgrade:

the late model spindle with the 2 flat spots is used with the late model engine cradle, which has to dual wedge bolt fixing mechanism, so you need the proper cradle to use that spindle.

If you use the engine cradle with the single bolt swingarm tube, you can do the kegler clamp modification to bring it up to late model performance specs. You can buy the clamps from NYC norton already to go. (I made my own some years ago and it cured my bike's snake like handling. I think it's a must-do for bikes with the early single bolt swingarm tube.
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I am considering the upgrade. Hence the dual wedge spindle.
o0norton0o said:
Re the spindle upgrade:

the late model spindle with the 2 flat spots is used with the late model engine cradle, which has to dual wedge bolt fixing mechanism, so you need the proper cradle to use that spindle.

If you use the engine cradle with the single bolt swingarm tube, you can do the kegler clamp modification to bring it up to late model performance specs. You can buy the clamps from NYC norton already to go. (I made my own some years ago and it cured my bike's snake like handling. I think it's a must-do for bikes with the early single bolt swingarm tube.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. Yes I was thinking I could use the dual wedge axle with the dual clamp upgrade. Now, I also want to do the oil filter upgrade. And the oil filter gets located somewhere down in that area. I want to be sure I leave room for the oil filter upgrade.
 
o0norton0o said:
Re the spindle upgrade:

the late model spindle with the 2 flat spots is used with the late model engine cradle, which has to dual wedge bolt fixing mechanism, so you need the proper cradle to use that spindle.

If you use the engine cradle with the single bolt swingarm tube, you can do the kegler clamp modification to bring it up to late model performance specs. You can buy the clamps from NYC norton already to go. (I made my own some years ago and it cured my bike's snake like handling. I think it's a must-do for bikes with the early single bolt swingarm tube.
Click to expand...
All the new spindles work in either model cradle I think. The have both the flat spots and the single bolt threaded hole.
 
you can use the spindle with flats just turn it around with the flats facing forward. that way you can do the clamp on collars and not worry about getting the clamps in the right spot. also the clamps do not interfere with the oil filter.
 
I have a before pic started of fork lowers prior to buffing. Sort of...

1972 Roadster Rebuild - 750 Combat


The following is twenty minutes on the cutting wheel.

1972 Roadster Rebuild - 750 Combat



I have not removed the deep scratches yet. I only removed what I think to be annodization from the factory.

Can anyone confirm that Norton annodized the fork lowers?

Back to the buffing process.
Notice the deep scratches in the p of the buffed fork lower. This area will need extensive sanding performed prior to cutting/buffing. Otherwise if I fail to sand and begin to polish. That deep scratches will be very noticable.

There is a fine line tho. So much alloy will need to be removed that it may become noticable. To compenstate I may have to settle for a wavy fork. Another words I may remove the sharp edges of the deep scratches.

After all it is a 1972.
 
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Ref anodising - Nothing was anodised from the factory. The fork sliders/lowers were just polished.
 
More updates with the head work being done. Cleaned the valves and discovered an exhaust valve needs to be replaced.

Below is the pic showing the valve.

1972 Roadster Rebuild - 750 Combat
 
I also took the connecting rods off and noticed the journals will need to be ground. Off to the machine shop it goes. 1000th out of specs. Bummer.

1972 Roadster Rebuild - 750 Combat


Notice he copper color. No good.


1972 Roadster Rebuild - 750 Combat
 
Dutch said:
You might want to hold off on the fender purchase ----
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@Dutch Seems with this Norton project I am having to constantly go back and evaluate my game of attack. In this sense the Norton has its own way of pushing back. Another reason I'm finding myself counting my pennies.

My goal is to ride this Norton next Spring. I can ride it without a front fender (again).
 
I do NOT paint engines, ever. Neither inside nor out. EXCEPT cast iron cylinders, then I use Rust-O-Leum gloss black.

I do a 50/50 boiling water and Simple Green degreaser bath with a stiff brush on the cases and head. If the head gets a valve job, the machine shop usually boils it nice and clean.

I typically have the engine covers highly polished, then apply turtle wax; I advise my clients to keep them waxed and polished regularly, rather than "let them go" and have a huge amount of work to re-polish later.
 
believe the dual set pin spindle is also shorter, as the MKIII swingarm is narrower by a little bit, and uses shorter bushings.
 
grandpaul said:
I do NOT paint engines, ever. Neither inside nor out. EXCEPT cast iron cylinders, then I use Rust-O-Leum gloss black.

I do a 50/50 boiling water and Simple Green degreaser bath with a stiff brush on the cases and head. If the head gets a valve job, the machine shop usually boils it nice and clean.

I typically have the engine covers highly polished, then apply turtle wax; I advise my clients to keep them waxed and polished regularly, rather than "let them go" and have a huge amount of work to re-polish later.
Click to expand...
I paint engines.Cases as well as covers.With the right paint & application, theres no need for problems.
 

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joel1 said:
@Dutch Seems with this Norton project I am having to constantly go back and evaluate my game of attack. In this sense the Norton has its own way of pushing back. Another reason I'm finding myself counting my pennies.

My goal is to ride this Norton next Spring. I can ride it without a front fender (again).
Click to expand...
Way ahead of you Joel - many new things in my shop are covered in dust, never to be used
 
Make sure your crank grinder knows what he is doing. There are not many places that can or are willing to do it right. There is a drawing in the Norton shop manual and it shows a radius which needs to be made after the journals are ground. I think it requires a different setup and/or cutting tool that is not commonly used.
I haven't had to do this to mine yet so interested to see how it turns out. Be sure to get a number of opinions before diving into anything.
Russ
 
Ive reached out to Matt at CNW. I inquired about the finish that CNW uses on the engines. He was kind enough to share that CNW puts no finish on the heads or cases. Only on the jug. Rather CNW uses the vibratory tumbler for the cases and heads

And so it is that I went to YouTube to research. Low and behold for pennies I can make one and purchase the medium to tumble.

So that will be this week's project.
As with Grandpaul probably only going to paint the jug with Rust-Oleum high gloss.

Thank you batrider for the heads up about the crankshaft. I'll research it in the manual. Famous movie line.(Manual we don't need no stinkin manual). Yah right..yes I do....
 
the radius is put on the wheel before the grind is done and it is part of the grinding. most shops don't like to make a radius change as it shortens the life of a VERY expensive wheel when they have to keep changing the radius on the wheel.

batrider said:
There is a drawing in the Norton shop manual and it shows a radius which needs to be made after the journals are ground. I think it requires a different setup and/or cutting tool that is not commonly used.

Russ
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