My 1970 Roadster Rebuild

Try these guys for a cover

http://www.britcycle.com/Products/norton_seat.htm

ChrisT,

The left rear iso 1/2" locknut would be rubbed by the exhaust and wear it down. I have seen this on several S models.

Dave

Chris, I can't recall the name of the vendor, but there was more than one available which leads me to believe they are a "in the business' It was not listed under S-type but 'Norton Commando Roadster Ribbed seat cover' or something similar. Having just checked there is still one on there now. As soon as I receive the parts I can post details of the seller. The chrome trim on the bottom of the seat is I believe a rubber U-strip with a chrome-look plastic insert.

I got an S style seat cover from Mike at Walridge with the clips and the silver band. You may have to email him about it.

Dave

Absolutely stunning Chris - ride with pride my friend... I hope mine turns out nearly as nice some day.

Chris, I have just received my seat cover from the UK, it is not exactly right for the earlier model, the pleats are larger then standard and the gap between them is also wider, it also doesn't come with a centre strap and the trim is all black. There is nothing wrong with the cover and I will probably put it on a Roadster seat that is a bit scuffed, but I will not be using it on my S-Type as it is not absolutely accurate and I am trying to do an authentic restoration.

I got a seatcover from Mike at Walridge that was pretty close. The pleats are a bit smaller but close. It has the silver banding, the strap, and a silver Norton on the back. Mike told me the silver Norton was not original, but that is the way mine came, so I got it like that. I seemed that he could get one with gold Norton or no Norton. It is the correct height in the rear too.



Dave
69S

dave M said:

I am trying to do an authentic restoration.

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Have you tried R K Leighton: http://www.rk-leighton.co.uk/ as they are considered to be the best in the business for authentic seat restorations?




This type of black plastic edge trim with the 'chrome' strip is commonly available from UK motorcycle seat upholsterers or replacement seat cover suppliers.

Chris Here's some photos of my 69S seat with a measuring tape held up to it. The logo on mine is faded but I'm sure it was gold at one time. As you can see my silver band is different than the one that was just posted. I think mine is original. I admire your project and sympathize with your errors; I make the same sort of bonehead mistakes and end up going back two steps for every three steps forward.
I am in complete awe of Grandpaul and the projects he undertakes. The one I just saw was his mono shock project. When he pulled that junk out of his sludge trap I started thinking about cleaning mine, but I've never been inside an engine and I'm worried that I would never get it back together- that and electrical is a total mystery to me.
Even tho I think my bike is 90% original, there have been some things I've found that worry me. Most recently one of the 3 bolts that holds my primary case to the crankcase came off and went thru my primary chain- there were no tabwashers to lock the bolts. I ordered new chain, bolts and tabwashers and only after they got here did I realize that whoever had worked on it before had obviously stripped out the original bolts and drilled and tapped the holes for bigger bolts so the tab washers wouldn't work. I spoke to one of the mechanics at Baxter and he told me "use locktite". I did but I know that's not the proper fix and now I'm worried that one of new bolts will work out again and I'll have the same problem or worse down the road. At least this time it didn't lock up the engine at 70mph altho the primary chain jumped a track on the clutch basket so it was running on two gear tooth tracks vs. three.
While it had been down I took the timimg case cover off to see if my timimg chain was loose because the bike seemed to make a lot of whirring noise from that side when it was running. I couldn't tell if it was loose but I tightened it up ot the max adjustment because anything less would give me about 3/8 in slack at the loose point altho at the tight point it doesn't have 1/8 in slack like the manual says. I guess I'll see if the noise has abated before I decide to take it apart again. The good news is I did discover that one of the leads for my Boyer had broken completely in two right at the base plate so I fixed that. I don't know how it ran but I had just been out testing it after fixing the primary and it would run right up tp 80-90mph altho above 90 it seemed to cut out. Maybe the spark was jumping across the gap.
Anyway here's the seat photos.
Bruce
Well Chris I'm sorry I can't see any way to add photos. I went to the admin panel and they said some forums won't let you add attachments. Send me a PM and I'll send them to you. I have about as much luck doing stuff on this forum as I do working on my bike.

69750S said:

I can't see any way to add photos. I went to the admin panel and they said some forums won't let you add attachments. Send me a PM and I'll send them to you. I have about as much luck doing stuff on this forum as I do working on my bike.

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Technical Information Section & How To Post Photos: technical-information-section-how-post-photos-t2357.html

grandpaul said:

Well done!

Can you "backfill" a bunch of progress shots of your work as it went along?

I'll be gritting my teeth until you loosen off the speedo nuts and rotate it in the meter cup to align better...

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Chris What's a compulsory two year stand down period?
My bike is red and the logos on the side panels are black with gold edging. Mine say Commando 750S not roadster.

The "compulsory two year stand down period" is the period during which you seek to avoid having to give away another house to another woman who hasn't liked your conduct....

AHA So that's a two year stand down. I thought you had to wait two years under NZ law after you bought the bike to register it.
I think I've figured out the photo posting. I'll have to sign up for Photobucket again. I had it for a couple years but could never figure out how to use it and it cost $40/yr. Actually I think it was $40 to have the service with a faster upload speed, but I still never used it. I'll try the free one.
Did you get my post about the decals? Mine are black with a gold border and the side panels read Commando and 750'S' below but mine is a 69 so it may be different on a 70 or 71.
I'm just curious why you didn't put the Scrambler high pipes on your bike since with the halo headlight and the silver barrel, it was evidently an "S" before the previous owner started chopping it. I looked long to find an "S" just because I like the high pipes.
WhenI was in Nam in 69-70 I saw the 1970 750S in yellow and I always wanted a yellow one, but my year was either blue or red. Personally I don't really like the red, but your blue one looks good.

69750S said:

I'm just curious why you didn't put the Scrambler high pipes on your bike since with the halo headlight and the silver barrel, it was evidently an "S" before the previous owner started chopping it.

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The headlight halo and silver barrels (and central oil tank etc.) would not automatically identify it as being an 'S' model originally, as the early Roadsters were basically nothing more than a 'low pipe' version of the 'S'. http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Broch ... Norton.pdf

I suspect that my bike is one of the one's that L.A.B. has identified as an early roadster. Although the exhausts have been replaced with a two in one the last owner kindly sent me the original pipes and mufflers - at least the ones that were on when he had them. They are roadster pipes, and the original brackets to which the mufflers are fixed are on the bike. Given that the rest of the bike was reasonably original I suspect that this was actually a roadster rather than an S; I do agree that the S looks terrific. My original pipes fairly rough, but I now have a chrome plater who owes me money and I might see if I can twist his arm into replating them (I understand that a lot of platers are reluctant to put exhausts into their acid baths).

As it happens I have just returned from the registration certifiers, with a number plate and warrant of fitness. The process has taken about 3 weeks from start to finish; the bike originally failed because it didn't have indicators, and was first registered in NZ in 1986 - it is a 1970 model that was imported from North America. Under NZ law all bikes that were first registered after 1976 have to have indicators unless they are exempted by certain paperwork. Ironically, the paperwork is a certificate from the Vintage Car Club of NZ, which I obtained by filling out their forms certifying to the Vintage Car Club that this is a 1970 bike, and sending photos. Upon the basis of my certification to the club, the club issues a certificate that the bike is a 1970 model and is exempt from the requirement to have indicators, and that is acceptable to the government appointed registration certifier. Of course the original certificate has been lost in the Christmas post, so the club emailed me a duplicate of one but not all forms today; and the certifier registered it against my promise to get him the other forms as soon as they arrive. High stress all round.

As I pointed out to the certifier, we could see the id plate on the steering head with "June 1970" stamped on it; but he correctly pointed out that the regulations required the process that we went through; another $100, and a very stressful delay given that I am taking the bike on a trip to the Coromandel peninsula tomorrow; I would have liked a bit more time to ensure that all of the kinks are ironed out before I go.

Chris - One other clue about your bike's former identity may come from the large nut that secures the left end of the rear iso shaft. I'm given to understand that S's tended to wear an angular facet on the side of that nut at maybe 45 degress to the center line. This on the left hand nut only. My 69 had this feature and a friend (with and original 69 S type) told me. I elected to rebuild it as a Roadster for now for reasons of practicality as I plan to put some serious miles on it.

Another way of determining whether "S" or Roadster is the serial number. It's generally accepted that the transition is at s/n 135088. Some "S" models had the high pipes removed by the dealer and so would not have the tell tale worn nut. Just my $.02, R Model Tony

Great Posting.... more pix please.....

As the proud father of a 71, I welcome you to the 'not sure what the hell I'm doing ' club, although I did manage to rebuild a couple of VW engines back in the day and was in a mechanical job in the Navy.......still, pulling apart and sorting out the Norton motor was a first for me too!

AND I understand completely about being a bit intimidated by traffic. Here on Cape Cod, the tourist traffic is scary at best in the dead of summer.... I actually waited to do any riding of consequence until after September just because I was almost dispatched about 3 times on a single 30 mile ride one lovely August day.....

Karl.

Chris T said:

My original pipes fairly rough, but I now have a chrome plater who owes me money and I might see if I can twist his arm into replating them (I understand that a lot of platers are reluctant to put exhausts into their acid baths).

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I've seen a plumbing gadget used to get around this. A rubber cylinder sandwiched between to steel discs with a bolt running through them. The thing slides in the pipe then the nut is tightened expanding the doughnut to get a seal. Some platers will go along with it, I know at least one who still won't do it

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/ ... 0138-1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/ ... C_0135.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/ ... C_0136.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/ ... C_0137.jpg

Chris Here's the pix of my seat with dimensions. Hope that helps.
Bruce
Merry Christmas