‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA

No, the three plugs are just white. Not sure if that was original either.

They were grey originally, so have probably faded.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17274


- should I have rpleced it? The hub?

The pre-71 Commandos had no drive shock absorber or rear wheel cush drive in the 'bolt-up' hub.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/272/rear-wheel

The 71-74 hub has a basic cush drive between the hub and drum sprocket but the hub assembly and drum sprocket has to be replaced.
Edit: Link corrected;
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/246/rear-wheel-drum-bearings
 
No, the three plugs are just white. Not sure if that was original either.

- should I have replaced it? The hub?

I went through a whole period of time wanting to improve the tire dimensions to a more modern profile. Part of that was improving the entire wheel since the early hub has no cush drive mechanism. The sprocket is just bolted to the hub. I couldn't see only doing half the job right and leaving any of the rear wheel "low tech".

So,... The improved later model norton hub has a tiny cush rubber drive to it, but in comparison to a modern cush drive hub, it's still a joke. The stock rim widths on all norton commandos reduce the effective shape of modern tires. Lastly, the 2 piece norton axle is a marginal design. My advise is to either keep the rear "bolt up" hub with it's rim/axle/tire, OR change the whole thing at a later date when your rear tire is worn out and you have to buy a new tire anyway...

...And here's the logic there. You buy the Madass cush drive hub, one piece axl kit, wide alloy rims, and new spokes. Then you buy a modern tire to go on it and you've covered ALL the bases, not just one or two.

Other than doing the entire rear wheel upgrade, I would just keep the current "bolt up" hub and rear wheel because the late model norton cush drive is not much of an improvement. If you lighten the wheel significantly, get a real cush drive assembly, install wider, lighter aluminum rims, and mount modern tires then you've made a huge improvement. Just adding a late model norton cush drive hub alone is a waste of money...

*I know the total upgrade is expensive. I did my upgrade by adapting yamaha cast wheels with a cush drive hub to my commando, thinking it would be much cheaper to do than the madass route. It turned out to cost about the same and took a lot of time...
 
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They were grey originally, so have probably faded.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17274




The pre-71 Commandos had no drive shock absorber or rear wheel cush drive in the 'bolt-up' hub.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/272/rear-wheel

The 71-74 hub has a basic cush drive between the hub and drum sprocket but the hub assembly and drum sprocket has to be replaced.
Edit: Link corrected;
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/246/rear-wheel-drum-bearings


Must’ve cleaned all the grey off.

Yep, I’ve completely disassembled the ‘70 hub numerous times so far. Would hate to part with that dummy axle after all we’ve been thru so far.

I’ll maybe get some track action with it and decide if I can live with it’s limitations, or... if I don’t break anything.
 
I went through a whole period of time wanting to improve the tire dimensions to a more modern profile. Part of that was improving the entire wheel since the early hub has no cush drive mechanism. The sprocket is just bolted to the hub. I couldn't see only doing half the job right and leaving any of the rear wheel "low tech".

So,... The improved later model norton hub has a tiny cush rubber drive to it, but in comparison to a modern cush drive hub, it's still a joke. The stock rim widths on all norton commandos reduce the effective shape of modern tires. Lastly, the 2 piece norton axle is a marginal design. My advise is to either keep the rear "bolt up" hub with it's rim/axle/tire, OR change the whole thing at a later date when your rear tire is worn out and you have to buy a new tire anyway...

...And here's the logic there. You buy the Madass cush drive hub, one piece axl kit, wide alloy rims, and new spokes. Then you buy a modern tire to go on it and you've covered ALL the bases, not just one or two.

Other than doing the entire rear wheel upgrade, I would just keep the current "bolt up" hub and rear wheel because the late model norton cush drive is not much of an improvement. If you lighten the wheel significantly, get a real cush drive assembly, install wider, lighter aluminum rims, and mount modern tires then you've made a huge improvement. Just adding a late model norton cush drive hub alone is a waste of money...

*I know the total upgrade is expensive. I did my upgrade by adapting yamaha cast wheels with a cush drive hub to my commando, thinking it would be much cheaper to do than the madass route. It turned out to cost about the same and took a lot of time...


Super post. Just what I was getting at.

If everyone was replacing the old setup, I would be more apt to just replace the lot. But if it’s not as obsolete as a ‘widowmaker’ frame, I’ll live with it a while.

Besides, I didn’t buy a 1970 Commando to compete with race bikes.

Thanks
 
This is my thinking as well. I certainly don't plan to push my bike to the limits of it's engineering. If I want to act like a wild man I'll just ride another bike.

Call me old fashioned, maybe stupid, but quaint engineering gives me fuzzy feelings.
 
Smarter commando enthusiasts than I have said that they haven't detected any higher levels of gearbox damage due to early bolt up hubs not having a cush drive mechanism to ease the gnashing of gear teeth. I believe that too, having had both style wheels mounted on my commando.

The complete upgrade is more significant in a few ways, and should not be discounted if you have the money to spend. IMO, the modern cush drive upgrade is a nice improvement, but not as significant as the lightening of the unsprung weight of the wheels and the changing of the rim width to maximize the performance of a more modern tire. Obviously your bike is still a 48 HP parallel twin, so you aren't accelerating any faster, but handling is noticeably improved.

Torquey engine + good handling = Fun
 
This is my thinking as well. I certainly don't plan to push my bike to the limits of it's engineering. If I want to act like a wild man I'll just ride another bike.

Call me old fashioned, maybe stupid, but quaint engineering gives me fuzzy feelings.

Working on the oil lines now. Noticed the AN site shows solid rocker feed lines for the 68-70. I will hang on to mine in case they become collectirs’ Items. The braid is obviously a good upgrade.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/sho...-exhaust-brackets-headsteady-battery-platform

Can you remember if the right side oil lines into the oil tank had crush washers on either side of banjos? I’m referring to the large and small banjos (with the chain oiler). Can’t find a diagram for the ‘70. Will check other models too.
Thanks
 
Smarter commando enthusiasts than I have said that they haven't detected any higher levels of gearbox damage due to early bolt up hubs not having a cush drive mechanism to ease the gnashing of gear teeth. I believe that too, having had both style wheels mounted on my commando.

The complete upgrade is more significant in a few ways, and should not be discounted if you have the money to spend. IMO, the modern cush drive upgrade is a nice improvement, but not as significant as the lightening of the unsprung weight of the wheels and the changing of the rim width to maximize the performance of a more modern tire. Obviously your bike is still a 48 HP parallel twin, so you aren't accelerating any faster, but handling is noticeably improved.

Torquey engine + good handling = Fun
Smarter commando enthusiasts than I have said that they haven't detected any higher levels of gearbox damage due to early bolt up hubs not having a cush drive mechanism to ease the gnashing of gear teeth. I believe that too, having had both style wheels mounted on my commando.

The complete upgrade is more significant in a few ways, and should not be discounted if you have the money to spend. IMO, the modern cush drive upgrade is a nice improvement, but not as significant as the lightening of the unsprung weight of the wheels and the changing of the rim width to maximize the performance of a more modern tire. Obviously your bike is still a 48 HP parallel twin, so you aren't accelerating any faster, but handling is noticeably improved.

Torquey engine + good handling = Fun


“FUN = Torquey engine + good handling”

Good axiom to live by.
 
‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


Top has copper.
Bottom no, just regular washer if I remember correctly.
 
Working on the oil lines now. Can’t find a diagram for the ‘70. Will check other models too.
Thanks

The isn't really any proper drawings available for models with central oil tanks. There was a thread here previously where it was mentioned that the UK NOC was in possesion of a huge cache of original drawings which they somehow acquired that may have those drawings among the batch, but legalities, politics, and money are all involved in the claim of legal possession. It's too bad because having those mechanical drawings is helpful in visualizing "what goes where" and seeing how the system works.

I just got back from a one hour ride up in the hills on my newly transformed '70 interstate model. I believe it's a one of a kind... Pffffffffffft, of course it is. I'm much happier without the old triangular side covers banging up against the bottom edge of the interstate tank, and having the stupid key on the face of the sidecover sticking out in the wind... Once I get the decals for the side covers I'll post pictures of my '70 in interstate clothing.

On this page of AN's website: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/489/oil-tank-battery-tray-air-filter-1969-70-r-s- , You can see the parts list with the picture of all the parts and glean the information about the oil tank washer requirments. Both banjo fittings have 2 washers, one washer against the tank, and one washer against it's bolt to sandwich the banjo between them.
 
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The isn't really any proper drawings available for models with central oil tanks. There was a thread here previously where it was mentioned that the UK NOC was in possesion of a huge cache of original drawings which they somehow acquired that may have those drawings among the batch, but legalities, politics, and money are all involved in the claim of legal possession. It's too bad because having those mechanical drawings is helpful in visualizing "what goes where" and seeing how the system works.

I just got back from a one hour ride up in the hills on my newly transformed '70 interstate model. I believe it's a one of a kind... Pffffffffffft, of course it is. I'm much happier without the old triangular side covers banging up against the bottom edge of the interstate tank, and having the stupid key on the face of the sidecover sticking out in the wind... Once I get the decals for the side covers I'll post pictures of my '70 in interstate clothing.

On this page of AN's website: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/489/oil-tank-battery-tray-air-filter-1969-70-r-s- , You can see the parts list and picture of the parts and glean the information about the oil tank washer requirments. Both banjo fittings have 2 washers, one washer against the tank, and one washer against it's bolt.

Yep. Finally found it. Thanks

And that legal beef needs to end soon, if it hasn’t already. It’s tough enough these days.
 
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Brilliant. Thanks for the link. I am certainly not inundated with ‘all the volumes of information’ needed to make sense of this 12/69 build and matching up the parts list.

I had the low mile engine rebuilt with new hardware, Pazon ignition, and a ‘breather’. The frame mods escaped my initial study, damn it.

I anxiously look forward to reading through Pete’s build.
Huh my recent acquisition is also Dec1969, but a 750S.
‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA
 
Cheers All,
For decades I have admired the history of Brit bikes, even made a pilgrimage to the the museum and what’s left of Brooklands.

Last fall I was lucky enough to find a few specimens for rebuild and chose a 1970 Commando 750 Roadster. Mileage in the 4 digits, mostly complete numbers matching 12/69 build. A Canadian import, I believe.

Although my first Brit bike build, I have resurrected a few Japanese bikes, still working a 1971 Yamaha 250 Enduro, a 1966 Dream 305 and also build 600/1000 Kawi race bikes. A little experience, but not much Brit experience! And the Brit way has already bitten me a few times.

That said, I have an appreciation for the expertice I’m reading about and and appreciation for those taking on the same task I have embarked on.

Hopefully I can gain more insight from the knowledge bank here without making too many mistakes. Thanks in advance for patience thrown my way, a 61yr old Brit beginner.

Photos to follow (if I learn how).
For all it's worth, I have a 1970, daily capable rider that I have owned since 1973. Purchased it for $400 CDN. Starts first or second kick after winter storage.
 
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