what's the best electronic ignition, '70 norton

Status
Not open for further replies.

goo

Joined
Oct 6, 2011
Messages
186
what's the best electronic ignition to get for the '70 norton commando?
thx
goo
 
depends upon the type of oil you use or sparkplugs (i think if you do a search it's been covered repeatedly)
 
The new Pazon Altair is a very very nice unit. All the benefits of idle stabilization (Tri-Spark) but with a remote mounted black box.


JD
 
If money is no object, then a Joe Hunt mag would be cool. I believe it could be mounted on the mag boss.
Tri Spark is well renound.
Pazon Sure fire is also well liked and is their base unit. The cost is a fraction of the others mentioned. At the price they go for, you could keep a spare under the seat. That's $125 shipped to the US from Pazon direct.
 
I've been happy with my base Pazon, but you will have to buy a couple of 6V coils if you still have the 12V ones. I think no matter what EI you get you'll need the 6V coils.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
I've been happy with my base Pazon

I couldn't agree more....my originally installed Sparx unit went bad in June...got the Pazon unit from Andy and have been very pleased ever since. Easy to install...static timing is a cinch...and it's been 1st kick ever since.
 
lets not forget tires, alloy v steel rims, 18" v 19" wheels, stainless v std fasteners, stock v modified and just what is the best color to paint it. I will say ANY EI AS LONG IT IS NOT SPARKS.

mikegray660 said:
depends upon the type of oil you use or sparkplugs (i think if you do a search it's been covered repeatedly)
 
Anglophile said:
Power Arc EI (from Old Britts) works well for me.

I've been considering a Power Arc myself. I'd like to hear more about your experience installing and using it. I just installed a Tri-Spark on a friend's Norton and he's completely satisfied with it, but my wallet is thinner these days so I'm looking to save a dollar or two without compromising on quality.
 
cyclegeezer said:
Anglophile said:
Power Arc EI (from Old Britts) works well for me.

I've been considering a Power Arc myself. I'd like to hear more about your experience installing and using it.


I'm sure Kenny Cummings could tell you lots more but from a layman's perspective it's priced right because of the included coil, etc. and it's dead simple to time. I've only got 500 miles on it so far but it hasn't missed a beat. I can't personally compare it with any other Electronic Ignitions since I've only run points in the Triumphs I used to own but even with Amals you'd be hard-pressed to tell she wasn't a new bike (well, maybe with your eyes closed!).
 
Anglophile said:
cyclegeezer said:
Anglophile said:
Power Arc EI (from Old Britts) works well for me.

I've been considering a Power Arc myself. I'd like to hear more about your experience installing and using it.


I'm sure Kenny Cummings could tell you lots more but from a layman's perspective it's priced right because of the included coil, etc. and it's dead simple to time. I've only got 500 miles on it so far but it hasn't missed a beat.

Honestly, that's exactly what I would say about it. Nothing lay about your description, Anglophile.

The unit comes programmed with standard and performance curves that can be wired to toggle between the two, even while on the fly. I'm working with Old Britts to dial in my own custom curves for racing and "spirited" street riding, and hopefully make them available in the near future, but until then I'm running a bone-stock, off the shelf, Old Britts unit, and am not sure all that I would change. Having run a Boyer MK3 for so many years, this is a delight to install and time (especially while at the track), and the whole package is priced right considering all that is included.
 
Holmeslice said:
Honestly, that's exactly what I would say about it. Nothing lay about your description, Anglophile.

The unit comes programmed with standard and performance curves that can be wired to toggle between the two, even while on the fly. I'm working with Old Britts to dial in my own custom curves for racing and "spirited" street riding, and hopefully make them available in the near future, but until then I'm running a bone-stock, off the shelf, Old Britts unit, and am not sure all that I would change. Having run a Boyer MK3 for so many years, this is a delight to install and time (especially while at the track), and the whole package is priced right considering all that is included.
Hi Kenny,
What happened with the heating/lost spark issues you had at Grattan with this unit?
 
pvisseriii said:
Holmeslice said:
Honestly, that's exactly what I would say about it. Nothing lay about your description, Anglophile.

The unit comes programmed with standard and performance curves that can be wired to toggle between the two, even while on the fly. I'm working with Old Britts to dial in my own custom curves for racing and "spirited" street riding, and hopefully make them available in the near future, but until then I'm running a bone-stock, off the shelf, Old Britts unit, and am not sure all that I would change. Having run a Boyer MK3 for so many years, this is a delight to install and time (especially while at the track), and the whole package is priced right considering all that is included.
Hi Kenny,
What happened with the heating/lost spark issues you had at Grattan with this unit?

Oh yes. That turned out to be a bad battery.

One upside to the old, tired Boyer was the ability to check batteries by "load testing" them by repeatedly hitting the kill switch, thus firing the ignition, and watching the voltage. We all know by now that even when a battery sitting unloaded reads a strong 12+ volts, that doesn't necessarily mean that's what it will read when under a load. The Power Arc doesn't fire by trigger pulses like the Boyer, so my "poor man's load test" didn't work at the track, and I chased my tail all weekend. Only after putting the Boyer back in (and crapping out!), did I realize the battery was bad.

In fact, the Power Arc will run at much lower voltages than the Boyer, so safe to say my battery was really bad. I now carry a genuine load tester with me to the races.
 
You know Kenny, if you are going to stay with a battery ignition you should re-install the alternator. You can make up the difference in weight by using a tiny battery then and you will no longer have to deal with total lost ignition problems. I lost one of the biggest races of the year-tied for 1st in sportsman- when my battery charger failed and left me with a half charged battery. Just enough for all but the last lap. Jim
 
this thread, like many, reminds me of typical thinking and or reasoning (which i have falling victim to too)

"i spent my $ on it, it runs good - it is the best" (otherwise i made a bad purchase and a not a smart person)

not that your (insert name of electronic ignition here) isn't good - but for your average commando rider there will be little streetable difference between any of the quality EI devices for a bike with everything else up to snuff - :roll: except maybe price! ( having had boyers, pazon, and trisparks)
 
I just got the Tri-Spark the other day. Went deep into debt doing so too.
Now If I can just sell my soul I'll be able to afford one of those FullAuto heads.
What's a soul worth these days?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top