wet sumping

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Jim, where those CNW one way valves that you said failed and did they all result in major engine damage?

I have the CNW valve and now you got me thinking I should remove it.

thanks
 
If in doubt, keep it out. There are plenty of other things to worry over with a Norton.

BTW, I am not Jim Comstock. He's the other Jim C, the smart one .
 
Yes, Jim Commoz is the Jim my above one way CNW valve was directed to.

All Jims are very smart people, except the ones I disagree with of course!
 
1up3down said:
Jim, where those CNW one way valves that you said failed and did they all result in major engine damage?

I have the CNW valve and now you got me thinking I should remove it.

thanks

The valves sold by CNW and several others are the Al Miles valve.

It doesn't matter which spring loaded automatic anti-wet-sump valve you have. They all operate similar and have the same potential to cause problems.

I would like to add that at this is just speculation on my part. Once the engine is blown then there is little proof of what actually caused the failure. Jim
 
ashman said:
I have never had any problems with wet sumping at all with my 850, I have owned it since new 36 years now, still has the orginal oil pump, but mine you I ride it 6 days out of 7, but it did sit unridden for 6 weeks when I fractured my arm, but the oil stayed in the oil tank, I keep hearing about wet sumping, but haven't experanced it, as well I run my engine breather hose straight to a dump bottle, I did a 2,500 mile oil change today and it that time it hasn't used a drop of and there was only fraction of oil in the dump bottle, maybe I have just been lucky with my Norton.
Ashley

It appears thatit is a hit and miss as regards to the gear type pumps that are fitted to different type of machines, and not just motor cycles. When I was an a apprentice I worked on one of an old line of identical milling machines, all, except one required the coolant pump to be primed to make them work (The coolant tank was in the base) whenever the machine was turned off.
Whether this has to do with the accurately of assembly of the oil pump is hard to say.
 
cmessenk said:
bill said:
I have been around hydraulics all my life and one thing you learn is you DO NOT put ANY restriction in a suction line...

So, if not on the suction line, Windy, what's the fix??? OK, I already know the answer, but I'd like to hear it again! :wink:

Then, pray tell ,why did Velocette do this to their 350 and 500s then :?:
 
For what it is worth a Vintage Norton racer had completed a new build of a bike with an alloy oil tank a few years ago. The first time out after a proper break in and at least one or more practice session the engine dropped power and began to seize during a race.

The apparent cause was a restriction in the alloy oil tank feed spigot. If I recall correctly there was some sort of cut off saw flashing on the spigot on the inside of the tank that was only apparent if you removed the spigot from the tank. In early discussions he described it as an equivalent diameter reduction but when you do the math and see the reduction in cross sectional area it was dramatic. I seem to recall 1/6th the cross sectional area.

So under most conditions the flow through that orfice was adequate but under race conditions I suspect the oil was much closer to vapor point and the resultant drop in pressure due to the restriction tipped it over the edge.

Norton attempted to remedy the wet sumping but note that they placed the valve on the pressure side which is good practice.

I would not put an anti wet sump valve in the suction side unless I knew it had adequate flow capacity at idle and more important, at speed without a significant (friction) pressure loss.
 
Bernhard said:
cmessenk said:
bill said:
I have been around hydraulics all my life and one thing you learn is you DO NOT put ANY restriction in a suction line...

So, if not on the suction line, Windy, what's the fix??? OK, I already know the answer, but I'd like to hear it again! :wink:

Then, pray tell ,why did Velocette do this to their 350 and 500s then :?:

Correct me if I am wrong here but I recall the Velocettes (350 and 500) have roller bearing big ends which really do not need a pressure feed like a plain bearing rod journal requires. The roller bearings are very tolerant of interruptions in oil delivery.

You do make a good point here and now I wonder how most dry sump bikes handle this. What comes to mind is the HD V twin and a whole slew of others.
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
What comes to mind is the HD V twin and a whole slew of others.

The HD oil pump has a check valve in the pressure line which works apparently quite well. I've owned my Shovelhead about a year now and wet sumping simply was no issue.

I'm currently working on race car engine and have some stakes in the dry sump system of that thing as well (no, sorry, I can't get any more specific ATM). A few days ago we had a design group meeting with eight team members and the subject of wet sumping came up - the engine we used to do before didn't have this issue because it was filled with pre-conditioned oil immediateley before and drained after each event. I used the opportunity to mentioned what was common - and IMHO bad - practise on my beloved Nortons. The reactions were: 5x disbelieving looks followed by heartly laughs, 1x heartly laughs and commiserative nodding (the 1970 Bonnie owner on the team) and 1x "Okay guys, now that we know what we will definetly NOT do please back to the topic, time's running and we don't have time for such a nonsense" (team leader).

:mrgreen:

SCNR


Tim
 
Then, pray tell ,why did Velocette do this to their 350 and 500s then :?:[/quote]

Correct me if I am wrong here but I recall the Velocettes (350 and 500) have roller bearing big ends which really do not need a pressure feed like a plain bearing rod journal requires. The roller bearings are very tolerant of interruptions in oil delivery.

You do make a good point here and now I wonder how most dry sump bikes handle this. What comes to mind is the HD V twin and a whole slew of others.[/quote]

Technically, you are quite correct as regards to the needle roller big ends on Velos, however the oil pumps on these bikes are gear type, the same as on the Norton, and would, if fitted to a plain shell big end, produce a similar high oil pressure to a Norton, Triumph, BSA, e.t.c.
 
Tintin said:
Dances with Shrapnel said:
What comes to mind is the HD V twin and a whole slew of others.
The HD oil pump has a check valve in the pressure line which works apparently quite well. I've owned my Shovelhead about a year now and wet sumping simply was no issue.
I'm currently working on race car engine and have some stakes in the dry sump system of that thing as well (no, sorry, I can't get any more specific ATM). A few days ago we had a design group meeting with eight team members and the subject of wet sumping came up - the engine we used to do before didn't have this issue because it was filled with pre-conditioned oil immediateley before and drained after each event. I used the opportunity to mentioned what was common - and IMHO bad - practise on my beloved Nortons. The reactions were: 5x disbelieving looks followed by heartly laughs, 1x heartly laughs and commiserative nodding (the 1970 Bonnie owner on the team) and 1x "Okay guys, now that we know what we will definetly NOT do please back to the topic, time's running and we don't have time for such a nonsense" (team leader). :mrgreen:
SCNR Tim

The Velocette method is as follows;
A large diameter about 1 inch ball bearing is fitted into a housing held in place by a weak spring that only just holds the seal when oil pump is not working.
The size of the ball bearing is carefully calculated to allow the maximum amount of oil to flow, say the oil pump can pump x amount of gallons per hour then it must be able to flow slightly more than this amount.
The oil pipes to the oil pump are crimped and are air tight or it will fail to retain the oil in the tank. Also before fitting, this feed pipe has to be primed (filled with oil from the top) or it will fail to work.
Those of you who have had one of these will already know that there is a felt oil filter fitted inside a tube in the Velos oil tank.
I suspect that Velo obtained outside help when they designed this method of preventing wet stumping and spent a lot of time, money and effort on perfecting it.
(Velos were good, but not that good)
 
I would call a ball bearing held in place with a spring a 'check valve'. To me a 'ball valve' is a mechanically rotating ball with a hole in it and a handle to operate it.

Dave
69S
 
A ball valve has a handle a check ball valve have spring w/o handle.

This is a gas flow ball valve converted to anti-sump fail safe oil controller. Guess what the pre-filter 'canister' is...
wet sumping
 
hobot said:
Guess what the pre-filter 'canister' is...
Flux generator, but I can see you need Janeway to re-calibrate it.

Dave
69S
 
Bernhard said:
Technically, you are quite correct as regards to the needle roller big ends on Velos, however the oil pumps on these bikes are gear type, the same as on the Norton, and would, if fitted to a plain shell big end, produce a similar high oil pressure to a Norton, Triumph, BSA, e.t.c.

Gear or plunger does not matter. With roller element rod big end bearing engines like the Velocettes and HD V twins, there is likely a need to provide pressure to some components such as rocker shafts but I see it more as a metering system that assures X volume of oil per revolution at the rod journal, not a pressure delivery system to the rod journals.

With the HD FXB I have it does register some pressure, enough to trip a pressure light.

I have a hunch that if engines with roller end rod journals exhibit any significant pressure in the system it is due to a designed restriction so that select non roller element bearing surfaces may receive proper lubrication. The roller rod ends just need a steady supply.

In fact, for many roller bearings, as bearing speed applications increase you see the lubrication recommedations change to misting only; anything more gets inthe way and contributes to waste heat.

I digress. Yes even with a metering pump it should be able to actuate a non drain valve. The question is where do the various manufactureres place the valve.

I remeber one foray into a BSA 650 twin and seem to recall a little ball valve beneath the motor under the dry sump screen cover. Anybody know about how the BSA twins handled this?
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
I remeber one foray into a BSA 650 twin and seem to recall a little ball valve beneath the motor under the dry sump screen cover. Anybody know about how the BSA twins handled this?

There were two valves. A spring-loaded ball valve on the pump feed outlet, and another scavenge non-return ball valve which dropped under its own weight.
 
Tintin said:
Bernhard said:
The Velocette method is ...

... an additional obstruction in the oil feed line - and that IMHO is quite simply an absolute no-go. Tim


I get your point, but you obviously don’t understand the principle. :?
 
you OBVIOUSLY have a limited knowledge of hydraulics and an oil pump losing prime. you KEEP pushing how ONE manufacturer did this BODGE.

Bernhard said:
I suspect that Velo obtained outside help when they designed this method of preventing wet stumping and spent a lot of time, money and effort on perfecting it.

is this a joke or what!!!!!!!

Bernhard said:
I get your point, but you obviously don’t understand the principle. :?

you have been giving evidence that there has been engines lost and theory on this garbage from VERY knowledgeable people but you still don't get that it is not a good piece of engineering.
 
Why are some people on this thread talking about reed valves when the thread is about wet sumping? The read valve mod. is for breathing, it has bugger all to do with wet sumping!

Dave.
 
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