Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

Okay - here's a tool I haven't made, but will if I have to repair another Mk3 anti-backfire device.
The difficulty is how to apply 50ft.lb to the shaft whilst clamping the gear.
So far I have used a pair of modified (1/2" tool steel welded each side) automatic visa-grips with a piece of 1mm ally sheet to protect the spline. I works (just) but is a PITA.

Next time I would buy the splined thrust washer (see below) and weld it to a 1/2" drive 1" socket. Gives direct, solid connection for the torque wrench.
Cheers

I’m sure that if it was suggested to A.N., and there was enough interest they would have them made. Maybe P.M. @Madnorton ?
 
This one is a general mod to sockets where there is not much hex to bite onto.
Typical examples are the large sump plug and the head of the bolt on the sidestand (they're the ones in the photo)
The nose of most sockets are useless, with various flares/roundings. For critical locations, such as those above, I use a bench sander to create a flat end on the socket to ensure it gets maximum bite on the short hex.
Most of you may already do this, but anyway...
Cheers
Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 
This one is a general mod to sockets where there is not much hex to bite onto.
Typical examples are the large sump plug and the head of the bolt on the sidestand (they're the ones in the photo)
The nose of most sockets are useless, with various flares/roundings. For critical locations, such as those above, I use a bench sander to create a flat end on the socket to ensure it gets maximum bite on the short hex.
Most of you may already do this, but anyway...
Cheers
View attachment 115306
I also do this
It's also good for fork top bolts 👍
 
This one is a general mod to sockets where there is not much hex to bite onto.
Typical examples are the large sump plug and the head of the bolt on the sidestand (they're the ones in the photo)
The nose of most sockets are useless, with various flares/roundings. For critical locations, such as those above, I use a bench sander to create a flat end on the socket to ensure it gets maximum bite on the short hex.
Most of you may already do this, but anyway...
Cheers
View attachment 115306
Hi Rob,

Yes I have a few sockets that have had the lathe treatment 👍

Dave
 
Baz - I bought one of these about 15 years ago. They are for Harley fork nuts and have an o-ring to protect the top of the nut with appropriately rounded corners. They fit Nortons and are still available but a bit spendier now.
Cheers
View attachment 115322
I've never seen those👍👍👍
I also have a flat spanner that fits
 
Here is what I found works to remove the inner piston from the Norton-Lockheed callipers .
It is a 1/2" drive stud remover.
Use the knurled part , tap gently into the piston (I bevelled the leading edge slightly ) it is a snug fit although works good.
I then used a heat gun to heat up the back side of the calliper body (same side as the inner piston) get it smoking hot, twist both the knurled part and piston using the 1/2" drive extension bar lifting at the same time .
I then used a copper hammer to remove the piston form the knurled part. Job done!
Pics to come
 

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If the ends of the thing were turned inwards (to catch the underside of the top yoke), I could imagine it being a tool to compress the fork springs down the stanchion when re-filling the fork oil. If thats not the purpose of the thing, I think I have just come up with an idea for a new tool....

edit, or maybe the idea of the turned out ends is that they can be clamped to the fork with a jubilee clip?
 
I guess it could be used to help split the cases, so you don’t have to pry them apart with a screwdriver.
 
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