Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

All of these are really great suggestions, but not what I made it for. Keep trying!!
 
Cliffa, I don't think it's right having to make everyone guess what it's for, unless you're offering a $500 prize or something. Hey maybe a forum member needs one of these to help with the job they have planned this weekend. Maybe you should patent it and sell it to Andover? Anyway my reply was all in jest, I have too many other things to bust my brain about.:) But I gave it my best shot. I'm done thinking. When I work, I work hard, when I sit, I sit loose, when I think, I fall asleep. I remember one or your tools for cleaning out a fork slider, but never used it. When someone has figured it out, let me know you can send me the prize money.:)
 
No prize money won here:(

My Interstate had a slightly sunken petrol filler. It's a common malady on Interstates I think, probably caused by being over zealous when pushing the cap closed. Anyway mine has always bugged me so I came up with the tool pictured. Here you can see it demonstrated on another tank (which incidentally is for sale in the classified section)

The steel hooks are springy enough to be squeezed together, and then inserted into the tank. It worked perfectly!
20240908_121125.jpg
 
Last edited:
cliffa said:
No prize money won here.

My Interstate had a slightly sunken petrol filler. I think it's a common malady on Interstates I think, probably caused by being over zealous when pushing the cap closed. Anyway mine has always bugged me so I came up with the tool pictured. Here you can see it demonstrated on another tank (which incidentally is for sale in the classified section)

The steel hooks are springy enough to be squeezed together, and then inserted into the tank. It worked perfectly!View attachment 116162
Click to expand...
You crafty old bastard!!!! ...and here was me thinking it was for your proctology lessons.
 
cliffa said:
No prize money won here:(

My Interstate had a slightly sunken petrol filler. It's a common malady on Interstates I think, probably caused by being over zealous when pushing the cap closed. Anyway mine has always bugged me so I came up with the tool pictured. Here you can see it demonstrated on another tank (which incidentally is for sale in the classified section)

The steel hooks are springy enough to be squeezed together, and then inserted into the tank. It worked perfectly!View attachment 116162
Click to expand...
Wow this couldn't have come at a better time
I'm looking at ways of pulling a filler neck up on a tank I'm working on
It's not a Norton tank but the same method could be applied 👍👍👍
 
cliffa said:
No prize money won here:(

My Interstate had a slightly sunken petrol filler. It's a common malady on Interstates I think, probably caused by being over zealous when pushing the cap closed. Anyway mine has always bugged me so I came up with the tool pictured. Here you can see it demonstrated on another tank (which incidentally is for sale in the classified section)

The steel hooks are springy enough to be squeezed together, and then inserted into the tank. It worked perfectly!View attachment 116162
Click to expand...
Well done!!.
I think I can speak with confidence, NO ONE would have guessed that.
 
Nice one Cliffa !

I’m new to interstate-ness and recently thought the exact same thing… I need to be careful closing the fuel cap !

As and when I do over do it, I’ll be making me one of these bad boyz !!
 
cliffa said:
No prize money won here:(

My Interstate had a slightly sunken petrol filler. It's a common malady on Interstates I think, probably caused by being over zealous when pushing the cap closed. Anyway mine has always bugged me so I came up with the tool pictured. Here you can see it demonstrated on another tank (which incidentally is for sale in the classified section)

The steel hooks are springy enough to be squeezed together, and then inserted into the tank. It worked perfectly!View attachment 116162
Click to expand...
Cliff,

Do you think I am going to need one?☺️
 
A couple of points to note for anyone replicating it.

The cup on the end of the centre rod is normally larger and has a nut on the end which protrudes. I cut off the outer flange, leaving just the tapered section, and then glued on the black plastic piece, which I think is a cabinet foot. Two flats were filed opposite each other to enable it to enter the tank.

If you want the plunger to act on the bottom of the tank and not the tunnel, as mine does, cut the legs shorter.

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 
cliffa said:
A couple of points to note for anyone replicating it.

The cup on the end of the centre rod is normally larger and has a nut on the end which protrudes. I cut off the outer flange, leaving just the tapered section, and then glued on the black plastic piece, which I think is a cabinet foot. Two flats were filed opposite each other to enable it to enter the tank.

If you want the plunger to act on the bottom of the tank and not the tunnel, as mine does, cut the legs shorter.

View attachment 116182
Click to expand...
So - what are the dimensions that tell you that there is a problem?
If you stick a tape measure down to the tunnel, what reading should you get at the top of the filler spout?
Cheers
Rob
 
robs ss said:
So - what are the dimensions that tell you that there is a problem?
If you stick a tape measure down to the tunnel, what reading should you get at the top of the filler spout?
Cheers
Rob
Click to expand...
Just look at the tank Rob, you will be able to see if the neck has sunk.
 
I’ve mentioned this before but now I have a photo.
To remove the carb manifold Allen screws is always a frustrating job, there’s no space to get access even with a cut down key.
I find that a normal key and a suitable size spanner ( I use a 5.5mm) allows you to remove both carbs in about 2 min!
Hold the end of the key in place with one hand and use the spanner to tighten or loosen the bolt. Easy peazy!!!
 

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SteveBorland said:
I’ve mentioned this before but now I have a photo.
To remove the carb manifold Allen screws is always a frustrating job, there’s no space to get access even with a cut down key.
I find that a normal key and a suitable size spanner ( I use a 5.5mm) allows you to remove both carbs in about 2 min!
Hold the end of the key in place with one hand and use the spanner to tighten or loosen the bolt. Easy peazy!!!
Click to expand...
While I had may carbs off, I filed a notch in the top of each manifold so you can get a straight run on the socket screws. I also removed the unused inner tickler casting on each carb to improve access to the nuts. (it is solid ;) )


cliffa

Post in thread 'general (amal) carb question'

Here you go Charlie. You can also see circled where I notched the manifold so you can get a straight run on the socket screws.

general (amal) carb question
general (amal) carb question



Actually looking at them now I don't know why I didn't just cut it all off with a saw. It is all solid. Mmm, I may revisit that :eek:


Cheers,

cliffa.
  • Like
 
SteveBorland said:
I’ve mentioned this before but now I have a photo.
To remove the carb manifold Allen screws is always a frustrating job, there’s no space to get access even with a cut down key.
I find that a normal key and a suitable size spanner ( I use a 5.5mm) allows you to remove both carbs in about 2 min!
Hold the end of the key in place with one hand and use the spanner to tighten or loosen the bolt. Easy peazy!!!
Click to expand...
Many years ago I drilled a hole in the end of an 8mm bolt slightly undersize of the allen key
Then I cut a section of allen key and hammered it into the bolt
I ground a ball on the key to give some flexibility
I use a 13 mm or 1/2" spanner on the end
This works for me way better than the original cut down allen key
 

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