Pazon yes or no???

Status
Not open for further replies.
The white wire from the Boyer is connected to the white and yellow wire that originates from the RUN/ CUT switch, in the diagram thatI posted it gives the locations of the wires, I know your wiring is all different colours but if you were to run wires from scratch when wiring the Boyer everything would fall into place. Then main thing is keeping note of each wire colour and the location of each terminal as you take it off.
Electrics can be very frustrating, unlike an engine where you can see moving parts and what is broken, in most electrics there are no moving parts
You'll get there .... honest!
 
Okay that all makes sense now as I have stripped the tape off the harness from the front to the back. I also removed the primary cover and it's good I did as the primary chain was super slacked along with the drive chain. But both are tight per the manual. The primary chain even slapped against the bosses that hold the stator and grooved it up. Tomorrow I will get the wiring taken care of and all should be good.
 
chopped850 said:
Okay that all makes sense now as I have stripped the tape off the harness from the front to the back. I also removed the primary cover and it's good I did as the primary chain was super slacked along with the drive chain. But both are tight per the manual. The primary chain even slapped against the bosses that hold the stator and grooved it up. Tomorrow I will get the wiring taken care of and all should be good.
Click to expand...

It WILL be fine in the end, sometimes the end does seem a long way off but you will get there!
Keep notes of all the changes you make to the wiring and sketch it down as you go, if it doesn't work you can then go back a step, at the end you can draw what you finally have for future reference.
 
Do you have a handlebar mounted kill button wired into the circuit? I highly recommend one.
 
If it's NOT fine, it's not the END![/quote]

Exactly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You don't finish it until it is fine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Ron's kill button might be a good idea. My early Commando may not have had one since I have a memory of chasing it around in a circle on the ground after I hit some gravel in a corner.
 
Nope no kill switch or anything on the bar's but grip's and levers. I'm also going to wire the bike back to the normal way with Neg. as ground and positive and hot from the battery. I found a link on Britcycle that explains what wires are switched to make it normal. It's what I know and the bass ackward way is confussing. :lol:
 
The Boyer is for positive ground. I do not think you can just swap over and stay Boyered.
 
aceaceca said:
The Boyer is for positive ground. I do not think you can just swap over and stay Boyered.
Click to expand...
Boyer can be wired either positive or negative , arrange wiring to suit
 
Electrical devices, Boyer included, care not which side is ground. Some do need to be polarity correct, such as a Boyer ignition. Diodes are also polarity sensitive. Lights (except L.E.D.), horn, and most relays will work either way.
 
I have the light's and bike wired. I wired it per the instructions from Britcycle. Everything worked at first. Then while installing the tank the battery drianed out cause when I turned the key it was dead. So there has to be a way to eliminate the rectifier as we think that the battery drained through it. If you wire it with neg on bat and pos on bat like the link claims there has to be something that takes the place of the rectifier and zener is also eliminated. Something like a voltage regulator. I'm gonna call Britcycle tomorrow and ask them.
 
I may have missed some things in your previous posts. If so, please excuse me.

I gather you have changed polarity of electrical system. If you want to use a negative ground you can not use the stock charging system. The rectifier and zener need to go. Replace both with Podtronics or similar system. This is no doubt the reason for the dead battery, considering all else is correct. Do you not have the battery fused? If so, what amperage fuse?
 
JimC said:
I may have missed some things in your previous posts. If so, please excuse me.

I gather you have changed polarity of electrical system. If you want to use a negative ground you can not use the stock charging system. The rectifier and zener need to go. Replace both with Podtronics or similar system. This is no doubt the reason for the dead battery, considering all else is correct. Do you not have the battery fused? If so, what amperage fuse?
Click to expand...

It had a 14amp 32 volt main fuse that has been beefed up to a 30amp 32 volt main fuse. I put the 14amp in the lights. For today I'm gonna change it back to the pos earth ground for now and when I can purchase the podtronics I will get rid of the zener and rectifier. The link from britcycle is misleading and doesn't give enough information to complete the transition.
 
chopped850 wrote:
Where does the yellow and white wire come from on the bike? I know that the WHITE boyer wire is changed from the igniton switch to the battery's negative post.


Hi Chopped850,
Here is a drawing in colour of the Boyer wired for negative earth, it may help; it gives the positions of all wires as per instructions, as you said your wires are different but as long as you wire it as per dia your ignition will work.

http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp19 ... ingNEG.jpg

As L.A.B. says yu will need to put in a regulator & rectifier or a modern control box, the boxes are good as they can be wired + or - and do away with a lot of wiring, they are also neater and fit and forget.

Have a good New Year!!!
Robert
 
Nothing at all wrong with a positive ground. In fact, if everything is working it's very cost effective. I doubt I would buy a new rectifier/regulator just to change polarity. If you want to run some gadgets that use positive D.C., a GPS comes to mind, then a polarity switch is justifiable. Most L.E.D.s require + D.C. Although an outlet can be configured for + D.C. Just keep in mind, ground is functioning as a conductor or a wire.
 
Wired it back to the pos ground and so far so good. Rode it for about 10 miles around the house in case it quit on me. I looked through my box of extra's and found the small switch for the front brake and installed it in the new harness. So now when I hit the front brake people will know.

The next thing to do is buy the protronic's regulator, new coil or coils haven't decided which, wires and set the ignition straight. The boyer box looks pretty tattered and I might just replace it also.

The primary band was replaced but it's still leaking blood on the ground. I'm guessing the seal on the inner primary for the drive/clutch shaft is wasted and needs to be changed. How much of a pain in the arse is it to change that seal out?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
  • Locked
Special Break In Oil, Yes or No
Replies
12
Views
2,119
Onder
Onder
Norcoastal
  • Locked
Paint The Frame; Yes or No
2 3 4
Replies
61
Views
7,177
Bernhard
B
P
Low pressure Atlas head, valve guide seal yes or no?
Replies
3
Views
926
Peavey Jeltz
P
RoadScholar
  • Locked
Gasket sealer: yes or no?
Replies
8
Views
1,859
Stillreel
Stillreel
B
Brexit or no Brexit
10 11 12 13 14 15
Replies
283
Views
28,054
o0norton0o
o0norton0o
Back
Top