Gasket sealer: yes or no?

I have been a multi decade fan of Permatex Hi-Tack, I began using sealers (of various Brands) back in the early 60s on a 216 CI Chevy 6 that I put in a fishing boat when I lived on the eastern shore of Maryland, where the sealer solved a multitude of leaks. I'm beginning to think that its' use benefits some level of peace-of-mind and may not actually provide any real value added. I have never seen a gasket come with a recommendation to use a sealer; most English motorcycle manuals suggest covering some of the gaskets with a layer grease, if anything. I do spend time insuring that my gasket surfaces fit flush; typically place the surfaces on a flat plate and measure around to insure that a .002 feeler gauge is the maximum clearance off the flat plate and work the part until such is achieved, then a trial assembly to see if I find any .002+ gaps.

I'd appreciate your opinions/experiences about sealers for gaskets; I haven't sold my stock in Permatex yet...

Clean mating faces, and a smear of grease has always worked for me.

I have used Loctite flange sealer in the past, now using a similar Permatex product "Motoseal"

RoadScholar said:

...I began using sealers (of various Brands) back in the early 60s on a 216 CI Chevy 6...where the sealer solved a multitude of leaks. I'm beginning to think that its' use benefits some level of peace-of-mind and may not actually provide any real value added.

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I'm confused; it solved a multitude of leaks, yet you're questioning its value. Am I reading that incorrectly?

I've been a bit fan of YamaBond #4 since the early 80's, except against antifreeze. I used it on the '74 850's base with no gasket, and around the pushrod holes on the composite head gasket. A full Summer of riding, and nary a weep.

Nathan

RoadScholar said:

I have been a multi decade fan of Permatex Hi-Tack, I began using sealers (of various Brands) back in the early 60s on a 216 CI Chevy 6 that I put in a fishing boat when I lived on the eastern shore of Maryland, where the sealer solved a multitude of leaks. I'm beginning to think that its' use benefits some level of peace-of-mind and may not actually provide any real value added. I have never seen a gasket come with a recommendation to use a sealer; most English motorcycle manuals suggest covering some of the gaskets with a layer grease, if anything. I do spend time insuring that my gasket surfaces fit flush; typically place the surfaces on a flat plate and measure around to insure that a .002 feeler gauge is the maximum clearance off the flat plate and work the part until such is achieved, then a trial assembly to see if I find any .002+ gaps.

I'd appreciate your opinions/experiences about sealers for gaskets; I haven't sold my stock in Permatex yet...

Click to expand...

If there is a gasket then I use no sealant.

I use a thin film of grease if I want the gasket to come off without sticking.

The only exception to this is a paper cylinder base gasket. They can blow out too easily so I use a thin coating of anaerobic sealant to make sure it stays in place.

When I first built my motor, I used Wellseal on every gasket surface, as well as gaskets. I also used it on the base to case interface without a paper gasket.

About the only place I did not use it was the head gasket, I used bone dry and totally clean faces and a composite gasket.

Yes, it was oil tight. But, even though Wellseal is none hardening, it still made some things, like timing cover, difficult to remove. It also made setting tappets a longer chore by having to clean off old Wellseal and apply new etc.

So, this time, I went more in the direction of Jim and relied on paper gaskets doing their job. And, they did! I also used grease on one face of most to aid disassembly and maintenance.

I still used Wellseal, and no gasket, on the base flange though.

The motor is still as oil tight as before.

Of course, I do use a Comnoz reed valve breather, and these are well recognised as assisting in achieving leak from motors, so must be a factor here to.

But on my next build, using Maney 920 barrels, I will have to get into the world of copper head gaskets, .005" wire, contact adhesive, etc. Sounds like a barrel of laughs... I can't wait!

Nater_Potater said:

RoadScholar said:

...I began using sealers (of various Brands) back in the early 60s on a 216 CI Chevy 6...where the sealer solved a multitude of leaks. I'm beginning to think that its' use benefits some level of peace-of-mind and may not actually provide any real value added.

Click to expand...

I'm confused; it solved a multitude of leaks, yet you're questioning its value. Am I reading that incorrectly?

I've been a bit fan of YamaBond #4 since the early 80's, except against antifreeze. I used it on the '74 850's base with no gasket, and around the pushrod holes on the composite head gasket. A full Summer of riding, and nary a weep.

Nathan

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You may not be old enough to remember what it looked like under the hood of pre-PVC automobiles after as little as 15K miles. My father's Packard was parked over a "liter" box, as was my mother's Ford. I use a sealing agent between case half's Yamabond is readily available locally as is 3-Bond.

Thanks to all for the insight and experience shared!

comnoz said:

The only exception to this is a paper cylinder base gasket. They can blow out too easily so I use a thin coating of anaerobic sealant to make sure it stays in place.

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Excellent factor to consider when deciding whether or not you want to install a reed valve crankcase breather.

RoadScholar said:

You may not be old enough to remember what it looked like under the hood of pre-PVC automobiles after as little as 15K miles. My father's Packard was parked over a "liter" box, as was my mother's Ford.

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Just barely, but I do remember rolling around underneath my dad's pickup. It had a "road draft" tube to vent the garf from the crankcase. I remember marveling at just how thick the tar was downstream, and that there's no worries about anything rusting on the chassis! Yes, kitty litter was the choice of floor covering at the time.

Nathan

I've used thin shmeer of Permatex for years; no,leaks. Neither Norton nor Triumph have lost a drop of oil from crank, primary or gearbox. 1/16" bead flattened with a straight edge.