New (to me) Dominator

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Well, an evening sorting out a very reluctant to return throttle. Turns out the main culprit was the grip sticking on the bar end mirror assembly. I decided to take both bar ends off..and what a challenge that was!

This really did need the services of the puller
View attachment 78758


and the other side was pretty similar, but used a different method of holding the bar end into the bar. Both were badly rusted in place, different size bolts were used, but was finally able to get all the pieces out.
The puller in this instanced allowed me to get better purchase on getting this out.

View attachment 78759

All the stuff that came out of my bars..
View attachment 78760
but glad both my bars look like this!

View attachment 78761
One final discovery..no air filter. Not great, so at the very least I need to find one!
Good Work . BMC make a good replacement air filter.
 
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Nice one on The Domi, I've had my Naked for a year now, I went though the whole bike when I got it as I'm like that. Learned my way around it and put everything together properly and have had zero issues, it runs flawless and a beast to ride. Nothing like it once dialed in. Enjoy the journey! Adrian
 

cliffa

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Vernon240

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Nice one on The Domi, I've had my Naked for a year now, I went though the whole bike when I got it as I'm like that. Learned my way around it and put everything together properly and have had zero issues, it runs flawless and a beast to ride. Nothing like it once dialed in. Enjoy the journey! Adrian
Thanks Adrian, saw yours on the you tube video. Yep, going through the bike. Quite a few issues coming out of the woodwork, but I quite like sorting all this stuff out. It is indeed a journey!
 

Vernon240

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Vernon240

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Made more progress. The replacement caps came fr the SCS ECU, so while I'm not planning on using it, I think a good attempt to repair would be worth the effort for a spare, especially as the components were only a few pounds from ebay.
20210325_180310.jpg
Everything ready, but I need to clean up the pads. Whats left of the original caps are still on the board, plus some mounting adhesive
20210325_180334.jpg 20210325_180338.jpg
these are the replacements
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Not the neatest job, but a tricky one with the rudimentary soldering iron I had. If it all seems to work, I'll support the caps with something injected underneath them/around them.

In the mean time, my 36mm socket arrived and time to look at the cush driver rubbers as Ren showed some scary pictures of his. Mine were not much better. The bike has done around 5k miles:
20210327_132303.jpg 20210327_132326.jpg 20210327_132539.jpg
I have new ones from Talon and they feel appreciably more robust. Not sure if that is because they are new and these have been pounded into submission!
 

Vernon240

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well, at least I was able to give the rear wheel a clean. I'll post some close ups, but the failed cush rubbers have allowed the sprocket bolt heads that engage with these to start to eat into the hub.
oVTPbmHl.jpg


These alerted my OCD, so I had to do something about the rust:
bE2jr3El.jpg


so cleaned them right back and repainted:

U0s54Hhl.jpg


GF2QLv9l.jpg


Better
qHYgMbhl.jpg


Does any one know what was intended/could be bolted here? Maybe some form of hugger?
qcA0tcOl.jpg


But of course that doesn't escape..
7T7jVE9l.jpg


I have to be careful near this, as it appears I have created my very own black hole!
hcG4VSjl.jpg


and lastly, the correct cable has arrived from SCS

ccU3QTLl.jpg
 
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Here is the damage caused by the failing cush drives:

vtf8SVwl.jpg

VUu0aghl.jpg
Good Work . I believe the New Euro 4 bikes use those threaded holes for a EVAP cannister . Not certain though , but they could come in handy for you to mount something . The Norton cush drive rubbers are softer then the TALON TCDR-1 . Norton also shortened the cush drive pegs/bolt heads so they miss the hub inner hole. But maybe that will help maybe not .
 

Voodooo

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Good Work . I believe the New Euro 4 bikes use those threaded holes for a EVAP cannister . Not certain though , but they could come in handy for you to mount something . The Norton cush drive rubbers are softer then the TALON TCDR-1 . Norton also shortened the cush drive pegs/bolt heads so they miss the hub inner hole. But maybe that will help maybe not .
I forget, when are euro 3 and euro 4 bikes? My 2016 commando has those same frame holes under the mudguard.
 

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Here is the damage caused by the failing cush drives:

vtf8SVwl.jpg

VUu0aghl.jpg
Is there a way to check for bad crush rubbers without pulling the wheel / hub part?
my commando looks like this.....
I don’t feel any play when I grab the sprocket at 12 and 6 o’clock or 3 and 9 o’clock.
there’s no gap between the hug and sprocket holder.
My dominator on the other hand has a slight gap but still no play between the hub and sprocket holder.
 

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Voodooo

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My dominator hub gap.
 

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I forget, when are euro 3 and euro 4 bikes? My 2016 commando has those same frame holes under the mudguard.
Sometime in 2017 started Euro 4 .. My bike 2014 has the the threaded holes too . I was just saying I think the Euro 4 bikes are using those holes for the EVAP cannister . I wonder if those threaded holes were used for frame construction/welding during manufacturing ?
Is there a way to check for bad crush rubbers without pulling the wheel / hub part?
my commando looks like this.....
I don’t feel any play when I grab the sprocket at 12 and 6 o’clock or 3 and 9 o’clock.
there’s no gap between the hug and sprocket holder.
My dominator on the other hand has a slight gap but still no play between the hub and sprocket holder.
Hi Scott , I have never been able to tell if my cush drive rubbers were worn without disassembly . Mine have been replaced multiple times in over 17 K Miles. You saw Vernon's cush drive after 5000 miles , I wouldn't wait too long to take a look.
 

Voodooo

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Sometime in 2017 started Euro 4 .. My bike 2014 has the the threaded holes too . I was just saying I think the Euro 4 bikes are using those holes for the EVAP cannister . I wonder if those threaded holes were used for frame construction/welding during manufacturing ?

Hi Scott , I have never been able to tell if my cush drive rubbers were worn without disassembly . Mine have been replaced multiple times in over 17 K Miles. You saw Vernon's cush drive after 5000 miles , I wouldn't wait too long to take a look.
I’m a car mechanic not a bike mechanic. What is the point of the rubber crush drives? To help take up drivetrain shock?
 

Vernon240

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Good Work . I believe the New Euro 4 bikes use those threaded holes for a EVAP cannister . Not certain though , but they could come in handy for you to mount something . The Norton cush drive rubbers are softer then the TALON TCDR-1 . Norton also shortened the cush drive pegs/bolt heads so they miss the hub inner hole. But maybe that will help maybe not .
That might. I may look at getting the drive bolts machined down a little!
 

Vernon240

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I’m a car mechanic not a bike mechanic. What is the point of the rubber crush drives? To help take up drivetrain shock?
Same here...a few resto’s done and work on my daily driver when I get sticker shock at a repair quote! My understanding is the Cush drive cushions drive take up when changing gear, rolling on and off, where there could momentarily be far higher shock loads on the drive train components. I’ll post up pictures of my hub before I disassembled. There was no indication of their demise, but I’m not an expert! I checked mine, as it’s a simple thing to do (once my 36mm socket arrived), Especially when I saw Rens drive rubbers after 2500 miles. His looked shredded! (I think secretly he’s a speed demon/ wheelie merchant!).
 
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Vernon240

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Good Work . I believe the New Euro 4 bikes use those threaded holes for a EVAP cannister . Not certain though , but they could come in handy for you to mount something . The Norton cush drive rubbers are softer then the TALON TCDR-1 . Norton also shortened the cush drive pegs/bolt heads so they miss the hub inner hole. But maybe that will help maybe not .
I’ve just heard from one of the ex factory guys on FB. He said this was the spot for the charcoal canister....which I ‘think’ is the evap canister.....right?
 
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