My First Commando...

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As posted earlier, SAE and metric fittings will not be the same. They may screw in but the threads are slightly different. You need to locate a British car or bike shop to get what you need. I believe I have seen them sold as “ British Girling”.
Pete

http://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirling.aspx
 
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Deets55 said:
As posted earlier, SAE and metric fittings will not be the same. They may screw in but the threads are slightly different. You need to locate a British car or bike shop to get what you need. I believe I have seen them sold as “ British Girling”.
Pete

http://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirling.aspx
Click to expand...


"SAE" isn't exactly British. :) The brake line thread is 3/8" UNF, original seats/flares are 45 degree, not 37.
 
Les,
Yes, I see what your saying about the threads:). Even though they are SAE when I went to NAPA to buy them they looked at me like I was speaking the Queens English. Gave up and ordered from Fedhill.
Those guys list them as British Girling, it’s their fault:mad:
Pete
 
I'm 60-70 percent sure the pipe got tossed out while on end of original hose. After pulling off bike and taking all apart, realized I need to release the seized pistons by hooking everything back up and using MC and hydraulic force. It worked, but got distracted with caliper piston removal clean up etc. I'm usually pretty paranoid of dripping brake fluid so likely put hose with line still attached in to a bag...later just seeing the old hose in bag and took to trash.
Will take the new caliper end fitting and new bulkhead mount fitting to the shops to identify the correct pipe ends/fittings. Can anyone post a shot of the bends in the hard line, lengths etc?
 
I'm not generous enough to remove it for measuring, but putting a tape measure on the installed part, I get (starting at the top of the female nut):
@ 1" to the first bend, @ 1.75" more to the next bend, another 2.25" to the male nut at the bottom where it disappears into the caliper.
Hope you plan to double flare the tube?
 
Thx for measurements and the image link. I hope to buy a pre assembled 5-6" length of pipe with correct fittings. Ready to bend. I know these are sold in parts stores, just need to find compatible ends...otherwise try for separate pieces and get a double flaring hand tool...or surrender to online Norton supplier and wait it out....
 
LAB revealed what ya will run into if not sticking to ordinary Norton factory hose or more expensive SS CNW kit. *Flair angle* - not thread matching as SAE and UNF will mate/seal like made for each other.
< brake line thread is 3/8" UNF, original seats/flares are 45 degree, not 37>

It took me weeks to hunt down rare adapter to mate Commando stand pipe 45' fitting with any after market modern 37' brake hose form supply/custom fabricators. Let us know how ya make out on ordinary parts stores solution.
 
Getting back to that brake line.
I just remembered why I had a problem getting parts locally. The flare on the ends are bubble flares and they use a different type of flaring tool and different type of fitting. The only fitting that was avalible locally for bubble flares were all metric.
In a pinch you can use a double flaring tool and not use the second die.
Here’s a picture of the line.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16743/hydraulic-pipe-bundy-

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16742/hydraulic-pipe-bundy-

Jeez, only took three days to remember this information (or was it longer.....or shorter....)
Pete
 
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Tornado said:
snipped Tail lamp is not Lucas and is smaller than the metal back plate. I picked up a '74 tail light cowl...can someone show me how this is supposed to interface with the lamp back plate?...does not seem to fit over the edges as I'd expect....

View attachment 3728snipped
Click to expand...

That looks like a 1970s Honda tail light to me. Leave it on, till you can find the correct tail lamp assembly at a good price.

Turn signals which are slow are most often due to someone installing a flasher unit which is not correct for the bulb wattage installed. Most automotive units are designed for 1156 bulbs, which draw more current than the stock Lucas bulbs. You can verify or eliminate a bad ground wire very easily. Remove the 4 lens. Clip a long jumper wire to the battery ground [+ red]. Turn on the left flasher. Connect the other end of the jumper wire first to the steel bulb housing of the left/front turn signal lamp. If the flashing speeds up, you have a bad ground there. Repeat for the left/rear. Switch to indicate right signal and repeat for the right/front & right/rear. If no improvement, you don't have a bad ground.
 
Deets55 said:
Getting back to that brake line.
I just remembered why I had a problem getting parts locally. The flare on the ends are bubble flares and they use a different type of flaring tool and different type of fitting. The only fitting that was avalible locally for bubble flares were all metric.
In a pinch you can use a double flaring tool and not use the second die.
Here’s a picture of the line.
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16743/hydraulic-pipe-bundy-

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16742/hydraulic-pipe-bundy-

Jeez, only took three days to remember this information (or was it longer.....or shorter....)
Pete
Click to expand...

If I understand this correctly (a long shot), the bubble flare is a one-time use concept. If you take it off, you toss it for safety's sake.
And to get a double flare, you must use the die for step one, then remove it for step two? Pretty sure that's right.
 
Mr. Rick said:
If I understand this correctly (a long shot), the bubble flare is a one-time use concept. If you take it off, you toss it for safety's sake.
And to get a double flare, you must use the die for step one, then remove it for step two? Pretty sure that's right.
Click to expand...

No, bubble flares are reusable just like double flares. The bubble will sit in seat that is basically the same shape as the flare itself. They do appear in American made cars. I had them in a 1989 Buick LeSabre “T” type and in a 1996 Ford Expedition. You basically have to use an adapter when replacing the brake line w/ a generic auto parts store pre-made line. I make my own lines so I try and save the old fittings when I can and install them on the new line.
Pete
 
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Les,
Somehow I missed that post. Might have been typing a response and did not catch it. For some reason I thought we were talking about the rear anyway. Probably because that was where my issue was.
Well at least we got a lot of nice pictures and links to various brake lines now.
Pete
 
Replacement rim just arrived...no close drilled holes like previous rim.
Gave up trying to source parts to make the brake hard line...ordered from MotoParts Inc one province over...$17 CDN plus shipping.
 
You getting smart now ! , plus one of the only inexpensive decisions you will make on this project .... glad to see Don got you fixed up , have fun wheel building, it is a dying form of art ....
Craig
 
New wheel is now built and fresh K70 slapped on. Got the run outs to within 20-30 thou for axial & radial. Read that usually within 60 is satisfactory for a road bike...although my Triumph Bonneville shop manual states 20 thou (actually it states 0.5mm). Rim looks pretty sweet, although the mirror finish looks like it will be a tough one to keep that way as it does not appear to be coated. Also seems to take a scratch at the slightest touch with tools. Will be fitting to bike after giving sprocket hub a good clean up. Any tips for rear fitting, like order of spacers/washers on the hub axle bolt and those cush rubbers?

I want to replace the OEM horn while the area is accessible...it just makes a click when triggered. Already pulled it off (weighs 1/4 lbs?!?) and have modern replacement, Fiamm Freeway Blaster, which I've also used on my Bonneville for great output improvement. It's also a feather weight and smaller dimensions.

Also got the new front brake hard line and fitted it. Had a hard time trying to retract the caliper pistons to fit the pads and fit over the disc. Pistons/seals all brand new and I had not set them into the bores when I first installed them a few weeks ago. Had to use a long tire iron between the pistons to leverage on them with caliper held in vice. All worked. Last expected challenge on front brake will be fitting the funky vinyl boot over the stop switch & hose fitting...any net wisdom to share?
 
I must of missed some miracle step. Did you just get a long enough factory brake hose to screw to stand pipe's female nut or made an adapter as discussed? Commandos are a thinking man's hobby causing extra work if not thinking through ahead of time, the first time. Always a next time if live long enough.

If ya don't stress/swear/strain to get the boot on well - tends to work off soon pulling flimsy attached terminals out. Tends to work down to soon even after fitted best ya can. Commandos are a non-thinker's hobby too as must blank out on facing repeat maintenance quirks proving ya not up to actually solving them. One of the very many uses of a hair dryer.
 
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