My First Commando...

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Tornado said:
What is expected behaviour if fuse is in blown state or battery dead? Bike will still start, by way of the 2MC capacitor correct?
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If the bike has points ignition then it will probably start.
If it has electronic ignition then it probably won't.
 
Not sure the proper fuse rate as it relates to moderns from original 35A tube type to mini .... pretty sure I read how to here somewhere a while back ..... I use a single 15A mini fuse and have had no issues .... however not running much .... ignition , brake light , horn and halogen headlight ....
 
The original 35A blow rated fuse is equivalent to 17A (17.5A) continuous.

My First Commando...


http://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/fuses.pdf
 
Plugs & cables are fresh. Points original...need to check gaps/timing/Auto Advance. Hoping to swap it all out with the VapeWassell EI unit I just got....but wanted to get it running reasonably well first to reduce number of variables to troubleshoot...
 
prob shot ..but never know, if pitted, a touch up might make a yuuge diff, for a bit..

point gap could be off.. good time to check advancer also, might be sticky,

16" in the back aint necessarily popular here, but you'd be in good company, even within nortons
 
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L.A.B. said:
If the bike has points ignition then it will probably start.
If it has electronic ignition then it probably won't.
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You can start with a good capacitor and a Boyer, although it might kick back.

A downside of a good capacitor is that it will let the bike run with a blown fuse, which can burn up your wiring harness.
 
ewgoforth said:
You can start with a good capacitor and a Boyer, although it might kick back.

A downside of a good capacitor is that it will let the bike run with a blown fuse, which can burn up your wiring harness.
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Yes, it seems that if your fuse has blown, the capacitor should no longer provide power...as whatever caused the blow is still there and shorting merrily away. The 2MC either needs to run thru same fuse or have its own fuse.
 
84ok said:
16" in the back aint necessarily popular here, but you'd be in good company, even within nortons
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FYI the 16" rear is no longer on bike.

Here's a shot of her in the wild yesterday:
My First Commando...
 
Just fitted a new in line mini fuse holder with nice LED light that comes on when fuse is blown...I can see it with seat off. 20A fuse in place. Flashers now working with ignition switch in both run modes but parking lamp does not come on with switch in parking lamp position...it is on in run positions. Headlamp not coming on in run please with toggle switch in on position nor with flash to pass or high beam switches. Suspected failed bulb, removed and tested direct to batt...comes on fine. Checked power at lamp shell connections...nothing there.
So a bit of a mystery to figure out...
 
I think there is a ground circuit connection in the headlamp shell, cd be corroded like mine was before I cleaned it up.
And if I'm not mistaken, the ground path is through the headlamp mounting "ears" to the forks and then across the stem bearings to reach the frame. If that's correct, a big improvement wd be to run a red ground wire from the head steady (or even direct from the battery) into the back of the shell and on to that connection.
Some guys get smart and put a relay in the shell so all the current doesn't have to run through the switches.
 
After reviewing the schematic for the lighting, I see that a headlamp toggle switch fault could explain why the headlamp bulb will not come on. I've also confirmed the highbeam lamp comes on with the flash to pass button...as it should b/c it does not go through the toggle switch. Needed to replace that toggle anyways as the plastic lever was broken off by the DPO.

Next up are the points/AA/Timing checks....got a homemade TDC piston stop made up from hollowed out spark plug and a length of old spoke of the old 16" rim. Any heads-up advice on how to affix the timing disk wheel to the crank? I seem to recall reading on these forums even a wad of bubble gum can work ;-)
 
And just b/c I could, here is a quick video of the conversion so far, with some engine running footage:

 
Hmm
It was idling ok around 1200 before, what happens if you adjust it down to that now?

Looks great.

Glen
 
Tornado said:
Just fitted a new in line mini fuse holder with nice LED light that comes on when fuse is blown...I can see it with seat off. 20A fuse in place. Flashers now working with ignition switch in both run modes but parking lamp does not come on with switch in parking lamp position...it is on in run positions. Headlamp not coming on in run please with toggle switch in on position nor with flash to pass or high beam switches. Suspected failed bulb, removed and tested direct to batt...comes on fine. Checked power at lamp shell connections...nothing there.
So a bit of a mystery to figure out...
Click to expand...

Back in post 282, you mentioned that you had the fuel tank off. I would suggest you remove it again. Look for wires which have come out of the black Lucas female bullet connectors. Also check for cracked/broken female connectors. This is a common issue and often the cause of a poor connection.

Charlie
 
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