My First Commando...

L.A.B. said:

A faded red then, as it's in the correct place. Presumably, it does go out when the revs are increased.

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Afraid I didn't think to look at it once she fired up...was fussing with the idle & pilot jet settings...so much so that I completely forgot to take the air/choke lever back to off...so my fiddling didn't make too much diff in idle. Will have another go soon...need some more fuel in it.

Had to reset chain slack after putting bike on sidestand, loading the rear suspension a bit, chain was too tight. Though I'd had the f/r wheels pretty decently aligned using string method etc, I took precise measurements using vernier calipers off the wheel nut to adjuster flange surface on both sides before loosening axles...and then got that difference (0.4mm less on left side) restored following chain adjust. Distances sure do move around 1-2mm during axle torquing, so had to take that into account.

I think she's ready for first shake down test...off to insurance to pay my pound of flesh.

BTW, is it required protocol to ride a Commando a la "commando"

Tornado said:

Had to reset chain slack after putting bike on sidestand, loading the rear suspension a bit, chain was too tight. Though I'd had the f/r wheels pretty decently aligned using string method etc, I took precise measurements using vernier calipers off the wheel nut to adjuster flange surface on both sides before loosening axles...and then got that difference (0.4mm less on left side) restored following chain adjust. Distances sure do move around 1-2mm during axle torquing, so had to take that into account.

I think she's ready for first shake down test...off to insurance to pay my pound of flesh.

BTW, is it required protocol to ride a Commando a la "commando"

Click to expand...

Tornado said:

Had to reset chain slack after putting bike on sidestand, loading the rear suspension a bit, chain was too tight. Though I'd had the f/r wheels pretty decently aligned using string method etc, I took precise measurements using vernier calipers off the wheel nut to adjuster flange surface on both sides before loosening axles...and then got that difference (0.4mm less on left side) restored following chain adjust. Distances sure do move around 1-2mm during axle torquing, so had to take that into account.

I think she's ready for first shake down test...off to insurance to pay my pound of flesh.

BTW, is it required protocol to ride a Commando a la "commando"

Click to expand...

Don't measure the wheel spindle to wheel adjuster to get the rear wheel in alignment, either use your string method or a straight edge or sight the wheels to get them in alignment , cheers

baz said:

Don't measure the wheel spindle to wheel adjuster to get the rear wheel in alignment, either use your string method or a straight edge or sight the wheels to get them in alignment , cheers

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Generally, you are right. But once set, taking a measurement to fixed points and noting the left side to right side difference should be close enough for regaining that original alignment. It is a pain setting up my string system just now. I do plan to eventually get a length of alu angle for routine aligning.

Tornado said:

Generally, you are right. But once set, taking a measurement to fixed points and noting the left side to right side difference should be close enough for regaining that original alignment. It is a pain setting up my string system just now. I do plan to eventually get a length of alu angle for routine aligning.

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Yes if you set the wheels first with a straight edge then measure the wheel spindle to wheel adjuster and make a note of it that would be fine that's actually what I do on my commando , cheers

So now she doesn't want to start. Before trying, checking all lights etc, flasher going well. Went to kick a few times, then noted no lights anywhere. Tried all switch positions...dead. Pulled out test meter and found batt good, fuse good, power to ign switch all good. Started testing switch with ohm meter and suddenly all came back on. Mystery. Bad connection or short some place?
Anyway, another 15-20 min of kicking with red ign light lit whole time and no joy. Resting now. Will check for spark again at next attempt.

OK...tried fresh new & gapped plugs...started within only a few tries. WooHoo! But, it's idling near 2000 and nothing I do with the idle adjustment screw or pilot screw seems to make much difference, other than increasing idle if idle screw is too far in. Choke lever pulling cable fully tight (opens the slider).What is the recommended throttle cable adjustment? What should I be trying to set it at?

Tornado said:

But, it's idling near 2000 and nothing I do with the idle adjustment screw or pilot screw seems to make much difference, other than increasing idle if idle screw is too far in.

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Single Amal Mk1 isn't it?
You said earlier in the thread that you had changed the carb cables so check the throttle slide isn't hanging on its cable at 'idle'.
Check the carb top is fitted correctly with the small tab on the carb top facing to the rear.
Check for air leaks at the manifold joints.

It sounds like you have a cable problem as LAB pointed out,
Have a look to see if the slide comes all the way down,
You should also have some slack in the cable at the twist grip

Yup, throttle hangs on cable when bars turned full right, but when straight or full left, seems throttle is on the idle screw. This is with top hat adjuster on carb top at max slack position. Now this new cable came from Mike at Walridge. Based on my description of the top hat adjuster (sent him a pic I believe). He did say it would be a bit difficult to get right without it in front of him.
Tried taking the cable off from twist grip and rerouting so as to ensure no binding during bar throw...it is basically passing along underside of spine, through the reinforcing member opening to right side grip...not passing in front of headtube now. Didn't seem to make much diff...can still feel it off the idle screw when turned right. I can feel it bang on idle screw if I hold screwdriver to screw while releasing throttle...doesn't bang when turned right, does when straight/left. So I think I need to figure a way to mod cable or source new.

Did you replace the high bars that bike arrived with .... just wondering if you got cable for Euro spec bars ... sure you already have considered that but as I remember from first photo looked like the western style bars ....

Bars were from Walridge also...sold as Euro style but as others have stated they appear more like Western bar profile.
But how/why does that make a difference here when the cable hanging down from grip isn't being pulled tight...always floppy.

Is there a way to trim some out casing end off from grip or carb side without needing to remove/refit the soldered nipple? I'm thinking carefully cut/grind off metal outer casing end and just go with the plastic casing at the end. Not good?

Just shorten the outer cable a little,or take the lock nut off the cable adjuster on the carb top

Tornado said:

Bars were from Walridge also...sold as Euro style but as others have stated they appear more like Western bar profile.
But how/why does that make a difference here when the cable hanging down from grip isn't being pulled tight...always floppy.

Is there a way to trim some out casing end off from grip or carb side without needing to remove/refit the soldered nipple? I'm thinking carefully cut/grind off metal outer casing end and just go with the plastic casing at the end. Not good?

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Pull the ferrule off the end of cable then cut about 3 rings off with a grinder or unravel and cut with some decent wire cutters

Thx Baz, that sounds like how to proceed.

I think if you pass it front of the steering neck, it wd get worse. Mine goes down under the tank on the right side of the steering tube.

Yes, it was in front of headtube tube initally...
The single carb has the cable coming out top just off center to left side, so it's a cleaner run along left, through head steady bracket, then through support section opening to right side bar.

But, I'm not quite sure how routing effects the cable slack...as long as whole thing isn't being pulled tight during handlebar turn. Even at full right lock, cable still hangs down, is floppy beneath twist grip. What am I missing here?

It takes a global village to raise a fully fettered Commando Tornado. It took-takes me about 1000 miles after following instructions to a Tee, double/twice checking assembly crank to tires, which permenantly damaged my handyman esteem and confidence to ride alone beyond driveway or pastures.

Leather seat chaps junk or gets too sticky / gritty for ala commando to catch on. Fine if its nice gal on back. You're getting a proper initiation, brain pains failure dead ends repeating unexpected traditional worship postures/rituals I now call it Commando cascades. Often attended by a reverent stunned interval of silence blank staring impossible new finding. Soon after some swearing turning air blue may be heard to echo back.

After following common advice to use strings, long straight edges, (even fragile florescent tubes), chalk on floor marks to lasers I got similar chain sprocket alignment by just running a finger between front of tire and swingarm gap to get similar then nip up. Please double check this lazy hobot habit after other methods and let me know if detectable difference.

Btw if using common methods don't forget to compensate for the rear tire offset to LH varying ~3/16-3/8" off spine/front patch center line. I added correct spacer tab for Ms Peel for the front tire contact of alu straight edge to simplify - ugh till I learned better fixing many flats traveling with others rather far from home. Strings would fit in tool kit of course.

Your throttle cable/bars/idle issue leaves me queasy to face as your data points and length suggestions do not compute to me. The outer cable is rigid to compression or expansion so if cable comfortably reaches carbs then almost would not matter how low it was as the movement of grip on cable would remain the same just more friction. I'd first suspect cover issues, likely in the y spliter gizmo. Remove cable from grip to shove tug cable/cover w/o fork motion, with pliers holding cable in tension instead of throttle. Maybe also, an inside carb slide attachment issue.

Btw once cable solved, if carbs fail to respond to pilot air screw adj, then suspect first crust in jet then float level, diddle to get pilot best idle about 1.5 turns out for base line the rest of carb works off of.

Fyi...I'm running single Amal carb, no cable splitter, just a straight run single cable. Did this decision to help limit complexity until I'm more capable on these matters.

I do still have old HiRider cable...also for single carb, no splitter...that's what was on bike back in Jan when Worntorn came over the help first start...didn't appear to have this high idle issue. Could toss it back on to confirm...go for first ride.

I suspect you are just in need of a touch more slack in the setup. Is there an adjuster at throttle end or just the one at carb end?

Glen