More charging info

Break open a Britbike ammeter and you’ll see there’s nothing expensive about it.

More charging info
 
Last edited:
maylar said:
The expensive part is the installation. You need to run heavy gauge wire from the battery compartment up to the headlamp shell and back.
Click to expand...
You have to run heavy gauge wire between the alternator, the headlight and the battery anyway. It’s also wise to have a heavy gauge return wire from headlight to battery too, with or without an ammeter.
 
Trouble with the ammeter is it’s a built-in breakdown opportunity. The coil in it can fatigue and break with vibration. That isolates the battery.

If a voltmeter fails, it doesn’t do any harm.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Was wondrin’ that myself, maybe Glen knows?? If not I’ll have to look it up.
Click to expand...
Missed this.
It is geared up, I can't recall just how much. It's likely about 2 to 1.
Correction, nowhere near 2 to 1.
Engine sprocket 35 teeth, Alton drive 28 teeth, so 1.25 to one. Sometimes I wish it was 2 to 1!

Glen
 
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Triton Thrasher said:
Trouble with the ammeter is it’s a built-in breakdown opportunity. The coil in it can fatigue and break with vibration. That isolates the battery.

If a voltmeter fails, it doesn’t do any harm.
Click to expand...

To test the charging of the battery a cheap DIY multimeter is enough, the range must be up to 20 A,
wire the meter between the battery and the R/R (in serial), rev the engine up and observe the ampere to or from the battery.
There is no need for a permanet installation of an Amp-Meter. There is a point where the system is balanced.
In my case it is 1100 RPM with the podtronics and Led headlight on.
With the trispark it is even at less RPM, but not yet measured, but the Voltage is no always above 14.2 V when the bike
is switch off.

That means the power of my old RM23 is enough at idle, even with all lights on. Even the light pattern of the Led is good


There is no need to change the wiring since they are also positive earth.

Marcel
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The presence of the ammeter on the bikes was probably a legacy of the pre-War three brush dynamo and associated high/low charge switch.
 
Marcelx said:
To test the charging of the battery a cheap DIY multimeter is enough, the range must be up to 20 A,
wire the meter between the battery and the R/R (in serial), rev the engine up and observe the ampere to or from the battery.
There is no need for a permanet installation of an Amp-Meter. There is a point where the system is balanced.
In my case it is 1100 RPM with the podtronics and Led headlight on.
With the trispark it is even at less RPM, but not yet measured, but the Voltage is no always above 14.2 V when the bike
is switch off.

That means the power of my old RM23 is enough at idle, even with all lights on. Even the light pattern of the Led is good


There is no need to change the wiring since they are also positive earth.

Marcel
Click to expand...
The cheap multimeters can give false readings with the engine running. The analog type seem ok, digital not so much, in my experience.
My RM23 needs some revs to get the voltage high enough to charge a lead acid battery, more yet to hit Lithium charging range.

Glen
 
Last edited by a moderator:
worntorn said:
The cheap multimeters can give false readings with the engine running. The analog type seem ok, digital not so much, in my experience.
My RM23 needs some revs to get the voltage high enough to charge a lead acid battery, more yet to hit Lithium charging range.

Glen
Click to expand...
I've had the same experience with cheap multimeters
I'm guessing you've got to spend out on one to be any good?
I have a couple of analogue meters that I find dependable
One of them is from an old BMW boxer ,it's fitted permanently to my commando
 

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I only have a cheap, and now quite old, digital multi meter.

Perhaps it’s age is a good thing vs crap new ones?

Any sound advice on choices and suppliers of good quality (but not crazily so) analogue meters ?
 
I have 4-5 older Fluke meters and they don't seem to be affected by RF. They are the industry standard.
 
Fast Eddie said:
I only have a cheap, and now quite old, digital multi meter.

Perhaps it’s age is a good thing vs crap new ones?

Any sound advice on choices and suppliers of good quality (but not crazily so) analogue meters ?
Click to expand...
eBay? Avometers show up quite regularly.

www.ebay.co.uk

Vintage Universal Avometer No.1 Multimeter UNTESTED | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vintage Universal Avometer No.1 Multimeter UNTESTED at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
 
The Simpson 260 is the gold standard for a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter). My dad had one from before I was born. I have one that my son will inherit when I'm gone.
 
I use either a Simpson 260 and a Fluke 179 for most "standard" electrical stuff, depending on what I'm doing. I use an old restored VTVM for vintage tube gear repair.

Until I bought the Simpson and Fluke some years back, I went through multimeters like candy - the cheap ones failed so often that I considered them just as a frequent 'throw-away' replacement! I recommend that folks just pony up the bucks for a Fluke and if you want analog, a Simpson. You'll be done screwing around with multimeters after that. ;)
 
I have an USA made Fluke , bought second hand and working fine ..........and a cheap one, just as an ohmeter to check continuity !!
 
Marcelx said:
To test the charging of the battery a cheap DIY multimeter is enough, the range must be up to 20 A,
Click to expand...
Something would have to be seriously wrong before the charge into my bike’s battery got near to 10 A, never mind 20 A.

The cheap multimeters I see don’t range up to 20 A anyway.
 

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