Biting the bullet on charging system
- Thread starter Ted Lang
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http://sparkbright.co.uk/sparkbright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php
These fit right into the charge indicator hole on the MK3 or small indicator light holes in the headlight shell with other bikes. If those are in use, it's easy to drill an extra hole for the Sparkbright.
This gives a much better idea of what's happening with the charging system than a bouncy ammeter needle does. The Sparkbright runs in parallel to the system on two little wires, tie into a low draw hot wire anywhere in the system ( not headlight) Waterproof &Night time auto dimming.
Glen
These fit right into the charge indicator hole on the MK3 or small indicator light holes in the headlight shell with other bikes. If those are in use, it's easy to drill an extra hole for the Sparkbright.
This gives a much better idea of what's happening with the charging system than a bouncy ammeter needle does. The Sparkbright runs in parallel to the system on two little wires, tie into a low draw hot wire anywhere in the system ( not headlight) Waterproof &Night time auto dimming.
Glen
@worntorn or you can use one of these:
https://www.improvingclassicmotorcycles.com/products.htm
The ‘Standard Charge Warning light’ allows you to use the original lamp so that it matches the others on your headlight!
We fitted one to the MK3 and it works a treat.
They also do a ‘Deluxe’ version with an LED that fits into pre MK3 lens bezels.
https://www.improvingclassicmotorcycles.com/products.htm
The ‘Standard Charge Warning light’ allows you to use the original lamp so that it matches the others on your headlight!
We fitted one to the MK3 and it works a treat.
They also do a ‘Deluxe’ version with an LED that fits into pre MK3 lens bezels.
Looks neat, but I would still recommend the Eclipse as it's a voltmeter + charge warning light rather than a straight charge warning light.
You really get a good understanding of whats happening with the electrical system while under various loads and still have the idiot light effect, which I seem to need.
On edit-Reading the full ad I see the lower unit, the " Tricolour" , is very similar to the Eclipse, maybe not quite as fine on range.
Eclipse voltage monitor in the MK3 console- ( the red light)
In a headlight shell. Use an existing hole or drill a new hole, 3/8" for this version.
You really get a good understanding of whats happening with the electrical system while under various loads and still have the idiot light effect, which I seem to need.
On edit-Reading the full ad I see the lower unit, the " Tricolour" , is very similar to the Eclipse, maybe not quite as fine on range.
Eclipse voltage monitor in the MK3 console- ( the red light)
In a headlight shell. Use an existing hole or drill a new hole, 3/8" for this version.
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Tornado
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Yes, the size of these units was one reason I have gone with the Tympanium. Got it mounted yesterday in the stock rec location. Made up a 1/4" alu mounting plate so it can sit clear of the frame web while using one of the mudguard bracket bolts and the 2 MC mounting bolt. Now I just need a fresh uncooked battery.
texasSlick
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I have the Gammatronix 3 color LED charge indicator
The lower lamp is the charge indicator.
It has 3 colors plus a flash mode giving 6 discrete voltage levels as follows:
<11.2 V Flash Red
11.2 V Steady Red
11.5 V Flash Yellow
11.8 V Steady Yellow
13.2 V Steady Green
>15.2 V Flash Red/Green
Slick
The lower lamp is the charge indicator.
It has 3 colors plus a flash mode giving 6 discrete voltage levels as follows:
<11.2 V Flash Red
11.2 V Steady Red
11.5 V Flash Yellow
11.8 V Steady Yellow
13.2 V Steady Green
>15.2 V Flash Red/Green
Slick
Fast Eddie
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And another mounting idea. Note I also dispensed with the trip unit thingy and used a blade fuse instead...
Tornado
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My understanding is they both use the same single phase diode arrangement for rectifying. Both are shunt type regulators which, though not as technically superior as the sh775 type, are standard fitment in nearly all modern bikes and have long history of good performance. Main difference between pod and Tympanium is no cooling fins on the Tympanium. Mine is 200W rating. Pods can be had in different ratings with or without built in capacitor and either single or three phase. My capacitor is working fine so didn't need the added cost.
Here is my installation:
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Or they might be.
robs ss
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Ted
I have emailed Pazon and asked them if it is shunt or series.
I'll post their response here
Cheers
Rob
Better to have plugs on the bottom so they are not drinking water.
@JimC agreed - it would have been better to have the connectors on the bottom.
But the convenience of not having to stand on your head to take the connectors on and off made the decision.
But the convenience of not having to stand on your head to take the connectors on and off made the decision.
- It’s well protected from the elements in there.
- The connectors are waterproof.
- The battery and the spark plugs still seem to work, and they are the same way up.
Gadge
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I highly recommend not testing the other way up!
acadian
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A shunt regulator acts as a low resistance path to ground and this ensures that the stator will have the maximum current flowing in it that is a function of engine rpm. Higher rpm = higher watts. As rpm's increase, so too does the current and heat in the stator. Since stators fail by burning the insulation, anything we can do to lower the heat in the stator will help reduce the likelihood of failure. This is where the shindengen style series regulator is advantageous.
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I watched the video and I don't see what their standard charge warning light does that is any different than the OEM charge light. ???
@MexicoMike
It tells you four things:
Most importantly though, the assimilator according to Boyer Bransden ‘must be removed’ when you fit one of their Power Box Regulator/Rectifiers as they are ‘not compatible’
I wonder if they are also not compatible with Podtronics or Tympaniums too on the grounds that they use the same components?
It tells you four things:
- That the alternator is working
- That it is generating sufficient power to cope with demand and keep the battery charged
- They also warn of overcharging
- Warns of a flat battery when ignition is switched on
Most importantly though, the assimilator according to Boyer Bransden ‘must be removed’ when you fit one of their Power Box Regulator/Rectifiers as they are ‘not compatible’
I wonder if they are also not compatible with Podtronics or Tympaniums too on the grounds that they use the same components?
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Most MOSFET regulators for permanent magnet alternators appear to be shunt type.
Having now read more on the subject here and there on the wwweb, I’m no expert, but I feel equipped to ignore the advice to use series regulation.
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