Main fuse/Positive ground problems

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I think the left cylinder is getting way more fuel by the looks of it. One of the plug wires is dodgy, but both plugs are sparking. It's the dodgy wire side that has the dry plug.
 
Replace the dodgy spark wire, rip one off your car to make sure it is that problem, remember these bikes are over 40 years old now and wiring gets brittle over time and even worst in cold climets.
You will get there in the long run I am sure, just be smart about it and think it through.

Ashley
 
Thanks Ashman, I'll be careful and will try to think each step through. I'm getting ready to head out to spend a bit of time with the machine shortly. Does disconnecting the alternator wires have to involve going into the primary chain case? Or are the connectors under the airbox? I want to avoid the smoke test situation that Slick issued a warning about :).
 
The stator has bullet connectors just outside the inner primary cover. Note the color code, but it really does not matter how you reconnect the two wires.

Slick
 
Hey folks,

I went out and spent more time improving on my bipass wiring setup, disconnected the alternator, and then I kicked her over 20 or so times, producing no joy, and then checked the plugs again. They were both pretty dry, though there seemed to be a bit of oil on the left one. After sniffing both plugs I started to suspect that maybe I wasn't actually getting any fuel at all. After a few more kick sessions and plug inspections I checked the fuel lines and the taps and discovered that the left tap does nothing. The right one flows good and was getting fuel to the carb. So I pulled the carb out and the intake was completely dry, so I took the carb apart, and look what I found:


Main fuse/Positive ground problems



Main fuse/Positive ground problems

The fact that it ran for 3-4 seconds yesterday with the likes of that attached to it makes me respect the bike that much more. I spent the next couple of hours cleaning the carb up. I reinstalled it a half an hour ago, and I'm waiting for my high temp silicone instant gasket stuff to dry now. So I'm having a beer, and being as patient as I can before I go out and try a few more kicks :).
 
Lol, don't worry, no silicone goop touched the carb at any time. I used it only between the rubber gooseneck and the intake - not on the carb side.

And guess what ... she's alive!!! A couple of kicks after putting the carb back on and she roared to life :). She wasn't getting fuel until now. Both cylinders are firing nicely. I've got to do a better job with the throttle cable though before I can go for a ride. When I hooked it all up the cable came up a bit short and is not letting the throttle close completely. So she starts rather loudly. That should be pretty easy to sort out though (knock on wood), compared with what I've been dealing with so far. My plan is to get her running properly and go for a least one joy ride, and then get serious about finding the short.

Thanks again!!! I'll keep you posted,

J
 
Good work, you be a happy chappy now, go for a short ride but I would sort the wiring out first if it was me, I am a patient person and like to have things worked out and sorted before any riding is done as if you go out you want to keep going and the other problems will be still there, but I am glad you got it started.

Ashley
 
My notes say Amal throttle cables are shorter in length than the choke ones ,slightly. Is it possible you switched the two without knowing on reassembly? If not ,there are the cable adjuster screws on top of the carbs to lower the slides.
 
Torontonian said:
My notes say Amal throttle cables are shorter in length than the choke ones ,slightly. Is it possible you switched the two without knowing on reassembly? If not ,there are the cable adjuster screws on top of the carbs to lower the slides.
Click to expand...

It's a single Mikuni.
 
If you are going to ride this bike hot wired please fit some sort of cut out switch, those single mikunis are notorious for hanging up unless you fit an amal spring inside the mikuni spring to make sure the carb will close, cheers
 
Thanks :)!! I'm a happy chappy for sure. That is some sound advice on the cut out switch, and the insurance company, lol. And I hear ya Ashman, definitely wise to sort out the wiring before going any distance.

I just got off work and spent some time working on the throttle cable. What do you think - does this look fully closed to you guys? It's sideways, sorry.


Main fuse/Positive ground problems

It definitely feels like it did before I messed with it now. I think the way I was routing the cable was a big part of the issue.
 
Supercat said:
I just got off work and spent some time working on the throttle cable. What do you think - does this look fully closed to you guys? It's sideways, sorry.
Click to expand...

As long as the slide is resting on the throttle stop screw and there's a small amount of slack in the cable and the slide is not 'hanging' on the cable, then it's right.
 
Ok, I think I've got the throttle setup ok, but I think the carb might need more cleaning. I can get her to run, but only with the carb lever down, and only for about 2 seconds at a time, and then only after a bunch of kicks. It looks like she just runs out of fuel after a couple of seconds and cuts out. I might try adjusting the pilot screw a bit, and if that doesn't sort things out I'll try pulling the carb again tomorrow, cleaning it again, with some special pilot jet attention.
 
There's a fixed 'choke'/starter jet in the float bowl which could be blocked.
Main fuse/Positive ground problems
 
Wow!!! Thanks LAB! This is super helpful, and that's a jet I can get at without pulling the whole carb off :). Bonus,

J
 
Spent some more time at the carb today but still having trouble getting her to run right... She will only start with the carb lever down and will cut out immediately if I flip it up, and will cut out most of the time if I give it any throttle. She'll just run for a few seconds generally before cutting out. I took the carb apart and cleaned it again today, and made sure the pilot jet and bipass are clear. I made sure the choke/starter jet was clear using compressed air. After putting it back together and back on the bike and trying to run it I played with the throttle screw and air screw and could get it to run slightly longer and at higher and lower rpms, but it would basically behave the same, cutting out after a few seconds. But she is consistently starting with the lever down. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
 
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