Main fuse/Positive ground problems

rvich said:

Well the Boyer certainly wont care which color the wire is going to it, so if the WP is going to be used to power it then it needs to be hooked the white somewhere that doesn't include the ballast resistor!

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Yes, that's basically what I've been saying all along.

Lol, don't worry, I'm convinced about the WP - I'm no longer intending to connect the Boyer to the WP . I did think it might be fun to check how much voltage was going to it. I imagine it is probably still getting power through the ballast resistor. I'll disconnect the ballast resistor and I'll go directly to white, when I get to that stage. I guess I'm going to have to figure out this loose connection business first though eh.

And it sounds like the main switch is the best place to start on that eh... Is that a likely culprit for the main headlight too?

Thanks folks, this is all super helpful.

I think for the moment, I'm going to go for a bipass setup ride, and then get back to proper wiring work when I have more time tomorrow.

Just went for an awesome little ride . The Norton Commando is an amazing machine.

I'm definitely going to have lots to keep me busy over the winter months, with the wiring for sure, and I've still got a little carb adjusting to do. It's still getting a bit too much fuel according to the carbon on the plugs after each run. That should be pretty straightforward to sort out though. The wiring is the most challenging aspect for me, but the information you folks have already provided has gotten me a long way already, and I've got a pretty clear path forward.

I guess my next electronics step is to find the loose connection, and to start with the main switch. I think the manual has a good explanation for how to take that apart.

Supercat said:

I guess my next electronics step is to find the loose connection, and to start with the main switch. I think the manual has a good explanation for how to take that apart.

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http://www.nocnsw.org.au/technical/rebu ... terthannew

You be best to buy a whole new wiring harness and rip out all your old wiring and replace all connectors, myself perferr to do my own wiring from scratch, you be surprised in how mush wiring you can get rid of that is not needed by doing your own, its not a hard job and there are many simple wiring diagrams around that makes things simple but very reliable, I have done many British motorcycles wiring over the years, just make sure you have the right tools for the job and it also teaches you more to understand your own bike workings which helps if you plan on keeping your bike.

After 42 years of owning my Norton I know every nut and bolt although I built mine to the Featherbed frame in the early 80s it helped me to understand the workings and don't be affraid as I had no experiance at all before I rebuilt mind when I was a young bugger with only basic tools, I now have a fully equip workshop with lathe and milling machine and all the tools needed to work on any British motorcycles or any motorcycle as well if I wanted to, just think things through, take lots of pics as you go and walk away when things don't go right and think about it, that the best advise I can give, after 45 years playing and working on bikes I am still learning.

Good luck with it, its a great life playing with old motorcycles as well new ones.

Ashley

Thanks L.A.B. and Ashman - great link on the ignition switch, and sound advice on the wiring in general. I'd love to do the wiring myself from scratch. That would certainly force me to learn something about electricity, and by the end of it I should know everything there is to know about that aspect of the bike. Would you recommend doing this over buying a new harness? And if so, where is the best place to get wiring? Can I just get it anywhere, or should I order from one of the companies that supplied Norton parts? I believe L.A.B. supplied me with a good link for connectors. And what are the main tools I should be looking to get to do a proper wiring job? Wire cutters/strippers I'm guessing. I've got a multimeter and a test light, but that's about it at the moment.

I'm traveling now and will be away for the next few weeks, so I've got the machine put away in my shed until I get back. It's a decent work space, though it isn't heated, and it gets mighty cold in the winter here. I'm in a city at the moment and can buy tools etc. here.

Thanks again for all the help fellas. I really appreciate it.

J

Buy a new Norton harness. The next guy who buys your bike will appreciate it.

Buy a new Norton harness. The next guy who buys your bike will appreciate it.

Agreed 100%. And get a headlamp harness, if not included. Also dump those old rubber connectors. Brittle rubbish.

Hey folks,

It's been a while so I thought I'd post a progress report . When I last wrote I was about to leave town for about 2 months, and part of that time was spent in the area that I bought the bike. I had been in touch with the PO who had found a few more parts that he was interested in selling. I stopped by his place when I had a chance and was able to get the original seat, instruments, rear wheel hub and spokes, ignition coils and points, exhaust pipe nuts, clamps and other hardware, camshaft, two ignition switches, another set of keys, speedo part that goes onto the wheel, and a few other things, for what I think was an excellent price. While I was there I rebuilt the main switch, as per the detailed instructions that L.A.B. sent the link for, and I think I did a darn fine job of that, if I do say so myself . I also spent time here and there while I was away polishing up the rest of the stuff that I got from the PO that I plan to use - the wheel hub and spokes, the seat, instruments, the speedo part I mentioned. I have no intention of using the points/original coils at this point, but the PO wanted to throw them in with the purchase, which was really nice of him. I shipped these parts at the same time that I was leaving for home, and they just arrived a few days ago .

I've been back home for a few weeks now and the new Podtronics regulator/rectifier is here, but I haven't had a chance to install it yet. I've ordered a few more parts as well, including a wiring harness, so I'll probably wait untill that's here before I try doing anything with the new regulator. I've asked Santa to bring peashooter pipes and a rim for the rear wheel . I hope to build the wheel over the winter, and try to put on the new pipes as well. The wiring may need to wait until spring since I have the bike in my shed and the temperature is getting very low now. Not the best conditions for electrical work. Any suggestions for other things besides wheel building that I can do in the house, that don't involve bringing the whole bike in/getting divorced ?

Anyway, I thought I would send a note to let you know where I am with this, to say thanks again for all the help before, and to let you know that I'll be back with lots more questions in the coming months . Talk soon,

J

Not sure about the Boyer or other EI systems, to check for spark at the removed plugs on a Pazon, if the red kill button is connected at the handlebar control , just press the kill button once or twice and this will trigger the ignition system and give you spark at the plugs. Make sure your ignition system is in the ON (live ) position and both HT leads are connected to the plugs and the plugs are grounded to the head.
This is instead of having to kick the bike over with the plugs out.

Once you get the positive ground thing sorted out, the red wire goes to the positive side of the battery.
Check the rear brake light switch, it might have touched the exhaust pipe and shorted out. Don't ask how I know this!
John in Texas