Amal carbs

The fast idle makes it harder to slow down using engine braking though!

With MK1 carburetors....If you put One hand underneath the carbs...with your thumb a fore finger on each throttle screw...you will feel whats going on..while you raise and lower/shut the slides via the twist grip... its also a quick simple way to check and synchronize the carbs ...with out pulling off your filters off etc...my 2 cents

Alan L said:

In the photo of the Amal on the press, is a mandrill being pushed through the throat of the carby, it’s a bit hard to see from the picture.
id like to have a go at trueing mine up but am unsure how.
any explanations greatfully accepted
Alan

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If you are referring to the photos in post #20, the carb is not on a press. The base plate of the jig is secured to the table of a mini mill just as a means to hold it in place. The carb is mounted flange down on the base plate. A length of all-thread which has a nut on it below the plate is protruding up thru the intake of the carb. The all-thread goes thru the hole drilled in the metal cylinder which is placed in the slide chamber. This cylinder has a flat spot milled around the hole that the spacer rests on when it is slid onto the all-thread. There is another nut above the spacer. The outside diameter of the cylinder is just a hair smaller than the spec'ed size of the carb slide chamber inside diameter. The carb is rehabilitated by slowly tightening the top nut on the all-thread, then leaving it in that position for several hours. As I said earlier, both flange distortion and slide chamber warpage occur at the same time when the carb mounting nuts are over tightened. Both are removed at the same time with this process. This method is superior to metal removal for a lot of reasons, but requires some up front work to create the tool.

I suspect an airleak on my "75 850 so while were on the subject whats the current take on Carb Insulators? Is thicker better than thinner ? Lots to choose from so how thick or thin should you go? These used to be a couple of dollars but now you can buy Phenolic Tunfol (?) ones for $30 if you want.

speirmoor said:

I suspect an airleak on my "75 850 so while were on the subject whats the current take on Carb Insulators? Is thicker better than thinner ? Lots to choose from so how thick or thin should you go? These used to be a couple of dollars but now you can buy Phenolic Tunfol (?) ones for $30 if you want.

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I like thicker phenolic amal insulators. as best to get as much heat transfer reduction as possible. A tempting option is the all rubber carb to inlet port item sold by rgm that can be adapted slightly to fit our setups.

Tornado said:

A tempting option is the all rubber carb to inlet port item sold by rgm that can be adapted slightly to fit our setups.

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Can you post a link ?

Fast Eddie said:

Can you post a link ?

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Apparently Amal mk2 manifold and rgm rubber flanged mounts...Old posting linked here:

Tornado said:

Apparently Amal mk2 manifold and rgm rubber flanged mounts...Old posting linked here:

Tricks to mounting carbs with hex nuts

I've seen MANY slotted manifold inside holes, so the inside 2 allen head bolts only need to be loosened, not removed. I did that to my Blue monoshock bike. Saves a few minutes and possible busted knuckle...

www.accessnorton.com

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Seems RGM don’t sell that rubber flange mount anymore.

Fast Eddie said:

Seems RGM don’t sell that rubber flange mount anymore.

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Amal are out of stock waiting delivery

My carbs are rubber mounted because vibration can cause rich mixture which slows the motor. I bought the mounts from Mick Hemmings years ago, but I don't know if they can be fitted to a normal Commando.
I never worry about synchronising slides. If you wind the throttle open when the motor is not running and let go to drop the slides, you should only hear a single click. If you hear a double click, the slides are unequal. I do not use a cable with a junction box, I use a twin cable quick action twist grip. - .Junction boxes are unreliable.

acotrel said:

My carbs are rubber mounted because vibration can cause rich mixture which slows the motor. I bought the mounts from Mick Hemmings years ago, but I don't know if they can be fitted to a normal Commando.
I never worry about synchronising slides. If you wind the throttle open when the motor is not running and let go to drop the slides, you should only hear a single click. If you hear a double click, the slides are unequal. I do not use a cable with a junction box, I use a twin cable quick action twist grip. - .Junction boxes are unreliable.

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You obviously know nothing about synchrozing carb slides
Hearing a single click when the throttle is closed is as small part of synchronization
Junction boxes are reliable if fixed in position

Fast Eddie said:

Seems RGM don’t sell that rubber flange mount anymore.

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I received this slip with an order this week indicating something looming on the horizon....