Amal carbs and spark plugs issues and concerns

When I first got the bike it shifted like butter. Was so effortless. Surely because the gearbox/transmission was rebuilt. Then I recently put a new kick starter on the bike and may have made my first big blunder. I gently tapped it on with a rubber mallet. Only later did I read not to do this. Afterward, I had a few times when it didn't want to go into first when starting up the bike. Had to kick into second then down to first. It has gotten better but still seems less effortless than before. What I want to hear is that this will continue to work itself out and return to buttery perfection. What I don't want to hear is I damaged the gearbox and the only perfect fix is to take it apart. As always, I welcome any input.
 
arcpoint said:
Thanks, think I understand it now. There's an aluminum caterpillar looking section that spans an inch and a half or two on the feed line. That must be it. I assumed that might be it but have long learned it's best not to assume anything. And for some reason I was expecting something more complicated.
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Here is one example on the Bonneville shop web site...sold for Commando and other bikes:

Amal carbs and spark plugs issues and concerns
 
Get rid of that anti wet sump device, lots of motors been destroyed with that device, lucky my Norton only wet sumps if left sitting for 4 months but if I do that I just drain the sump before I do a startup takes 5 minutes out of my life to do so and I check everything else while its draining.
Putting anything on the oil line is never a good idea.
Best thing is ride the bike regularly, was all good when my Norton was an everyday rider for most of its life with me, but now retired I spend too much time at home.
 
arcpoint said:
When I first got the bike it shifted like butter. Was so effortless. Surely because the gearbox/transmission was rebuilt. Then I recently put a new kick starter on the bike and may have made my first big blunder. I gently tapped it on with a rubber mallet. Only later did I read not to do this. Afterward, I had a few times when it didn't want to go into first when starting up the bike. Had to kick into second then down to first. It has gotten better but still seems less effortless than before. What I want to hear is that this will continue to work itself out and return to buttery perfection. What I don't want to hear is I damaged the gearbox and the only perfect fix is to take it apart. As always, I welcome any input.
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Unlikely. Sounds a bit more like clutch could be dragging a touch.
 
johnm said:
Unlikely. Sounds a bit more like clutch could be dragging a touch.
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That's a real possibility. Hope so. It's Barnett. Recently installed. Maybe a fairly reasonable fix or adjustment, or maybe I'm wanting too much perfection. In the meantime, I have no problem riding it as is and enjoying myself immensely. I may take off my kick start along with the wet sump device. Saw a guy who did that and thought, why not.
 
ashman said:
Get rid of that anti wet sump device, lots of motors been destroyed with that device, lucky my Norton only wet sumps if left sitting for 4 months but if I do that I just drain the sump before I do a startup takes 5 minutes out of my life to do so and I check everything else while its draining.
Putting anything on the oil line is never a good idea.
Best thing is ride the bike regularly, was all good when my Norton was an everyday rider for most of its life with me, but now retired I spend too much time at home.
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Going to order that Andover magnetic drain plug probably tonight.
 
arcpoint said:
That's a real possibility. Hope so. It's Barnett. Recently installed. Maybe a fairly reasonable fix or adjustment, or maybe I'm wanting too much perfection. In the meantime, I have no problem riding it as is and enjoying myself immensely. I may take off my kick start along with the wet sump device. Saw a guy who did that and thought, why not.
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with the Mk111 starter. I have a CNW aftermarket starter fitted to my Mk11 850. As I got into my 70s kick starting became more challenging.😢

Back to the Mk 111 starter and removing the kick-start. My understanding is the original factory starter left a lot to be desired and is best described as a starting assist. However there have been upgrades over the years including complete replacements. If you have one of these upgrades then removing the kick start may be viable.

But without the upgrades and a factory starter you would be taking a risk.
 
johnm said:
I'm not familiar with the Mk111 starter. I have a CNW aftermarket starter fitted to my Mk11 850. As I got into my 70s kick starting became more challenging.😢

Back to the Mk 111 starter and removing the kick-start. My understanding is the original factory starter left a lot to be desired and is best described as a starting assist. However there have been upgrades over the years including complete replacements. If you have one of these upgrades then removing the kick start may be viable.

But without the upgrades and a factory starter you would be taking a risk.
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Yeah, I have an upgrade and it works quite well. At least so far. Very strong, easy to turn over.
 
If it pops on the overrun, like during engine braking, the throttle is shut so it is running on the idle circuit. Try marking, then turning the air screws in a 1/4 turn and see if things improve. It will start doing the same thing if an idle jet fuel passageway starts to get blocked.
(Just my opinion - you don't need the gantry.)
Russ
 
batrider said:
If it pops on the overrun, like during engine braking, the throttle is shut so it is running on the idle circuit. Try marking, then turning the air screws in a 1/4 turn and see if things improve. It will start doing the same thing if an idle jet fuel passageway starts to get blocked.
(Just my opinion - you don't need the gantry.)
Russ
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Thanks, I'll try it. Once upon a time I was able to dial my Mikunis in to solve such issues. I'm sorta surprised it wasn't mentioned earlier.

If the idle jet fuel passageway is getting blocked, a simple clean out process should solve that, no?
 
acotrel said:
Did you modify those crankcases for rubber mounting ? My mate did that for several people. The bikes always seem to be slower when the motor is rubber mounted. It might be just perception.
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Yes, with reduced power, hopefully it won't throw me down the road.
 
Want to throw out a big thank you to all of you who shared so many insights. I put many of them to good use. Such as bought a sump plug with drain and dumped that anti sump device before I blew the motor to high heaven. Also, straightened and tightened the exhaust pipes at the headers and at the muffler connections and changed out the float bowl and on and on. So we are running really well, solid. Only thing is I still have a little gurgle pop in deceleration but not nearly as bad as it was.

After trying different plug and gap combinations, I returned to what was on the bike when I got it. It's odd and I haven't seen another Norton with Champion RN9YC gapped at 30. Can anyone tell me why this is?
 
arcpoint said:
Want to throw out a big thank you to all of you who shared so many insights. I put many of them to good use. Such as bought a sump plug with drain and dumped that anti sump device before I blew the motor to high heaven. Also, straightened and tightened the exhaust pipes at the headers and at the muffler connections and changed out the float bowl and on and on. So we are running really well, solid. Only thing is I still have a little gurgle pop in deceleration but not nearly as bad as it was.

After trying different plug and gap combinations, I returned to what was on the bike when I got it. It's odd and I haven't seen another Norton with Champion RN9YC gapped at 30. Can anyone tell me why this is?
Click to expand...

If it pops when you release the throttle, many times that's an exhaust leak at the header pipe connection. You close the throttle and the rapid decrease in pressure causes the exhaust pipe to pull air into the exhaust pipe at the leak, which ignites the leftover fuel in the exhaust gas....

.... And nobody uses that plug because they don't want to burn a hole in their pistons...:rolleyes:
 
o0norton0o said:
If it pops when you release the throttle, many times that's an exhaust leak at the header pipe connection. You close the throttle and the rapid decrease in pressure causes the exhaust pipe to pull air into the exhaust pipe at the leak, which ignites the leftover fuel in the exhaust gas....

.... And nobody uses that plug because they don't want to burn a hole in their pistons...:rolleyes:
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I just got some new pipe header gaskets, copper, to install tomorrow. I'll try the suggested 7s and NGK again, but couldn't get a good result before. Still can't figure why he put these in. The guy really knew his stuff and did really good work otherwise.
 
I checked a few heat range charts and some have the champion RN9YC in the same heat range, and some charts have it as one range hotter than recommended, so I doubt it will damage your piston, especially if it's been working fine previously. I use NGK myself and carry a pair of plugs in my tool kit which is one heat range hotter than my standard plug, figuring if my plug is fouling for some reason, maybe I could get home on the slightly hotter plug... (probably wishful thinking there)
 
Was installing the new header pipe crush washers and discovered a broken split collar collet. So now I wait for the part. Can someone tell me if my plugs and valves are getting black am I running rich or lean? Pretty sure I need to try hotter plugs, but what about the timing?
 
arcpoint said:
Was installing the new header pipe crush washers and discovered a broken split collar collet. So now I wait for the part. Can someone tell me if my plugs and valves are getting black am I running rich or lean? Pretty sure I need to try hotter plugs, but what about the timing?
Click to expand...
Broken collar? If your bike has the "Y" type headers with a connecting section then the collars are supposed to be split to allow assemble around the header pipe flanged ends...there would be no way to put an unsplit collet over the flanged ends. THe unsplit type collars are for the bikes with no balance pipes, unbranched headers (typically pre-74-75).
 

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