Did you modify those crankcases for rubber mounting ? My mate did that for several people. The bikes always seem to be slower when the motor is rubber mounted. It might be just perception.
Is there a way to do this without taking out the entire carbs?
Thanks for the chart. I'm a visual person and much easier seeing it than just hearing or reading it.
Yes
Yep, this one has the balance pipe. The connections are tight. I will open it up and check out the measurements as you said and try the double gaskets if that seems to be the solution. Don't plan on replacing these pipes anytime soon or at all as the PO purchased these and put them on right before I made the purchase. They seem a good aftermarket solution and they sound great.I mentioned leaking header pipes as a very common source for backfiring in the third post on the thread. In fact in 50 years plus of playing with these bikes it's the issue 90 % of the time.
Your bike us a Mk 111. Which, should if it is original, have a different slightly different mounting system in the head. The same system is found on latter MK11 and Mk11 A models.
Originally it would have had a balance pipe between the headers. Many people take them off and install pipes without the balance tube but if you still have the balance pipe the joints are a very common place for leaks.
With a Mk 111 type fitting there are collets that secure the pipe into the head because the balance pipe joint does not allow the clamping ring to slide on from the other end of the header pipe.
If you do have the original collet system you should clean everything carefully and without the pipe installed screw in the clamping ring with the collets and measure where it ends up when fully screwed in. It should screw in by hand. No force required. Often you find the gap is wider than can be taken up by the header pipe flange and a single ring gasket. If it is you can try two gaskets or even longer collets if you can find them.
You will understand the explanation better if you just trial assemble the pieces.
When you get the space out right assemble with the pipes and use high temperature RTV to seal and hold the clamping ring in place. After your first few rides when the bike is still hot retighten the clamping ring. You may need to do this several times. There are proper spanners available to tighten them without butchering the clamp.
Last issue is that the threads into the head can be ruined by careless owners. If the threads are ruined they can be repaired. Your in the US so Ill leave to the local guys to suggest a suitable repair place.
I had the backfire issue with mine just last year. The header pipes were tight but I found evidence of exhaust leaks at the slot in the connector tube where the pinch bolts tighten. I sealed them with RTV.
On my mk2, the balance pipe header cracked at the Y branch....was very hard to actully see crack. Perhaps check for blowig gases while idling, or give if all a good push/pull when cold by hand and inspecting with a magnifing lens?
I'm assuming he means these crush washer/spacers/gaskets. I have also used copper crush seal washer/ gaskets there.
Yes I presume those. Thanks for the clarification. My vintage motorcycle vocabulary leaves a lot to be desired. But I'll catch on.I'm assuming he means these crush washer/spacers/gaskets. I have also used copper crush seal washer/ gaskets there.
Andover Norton - EX. PIPE SPHERICAL SEATING - 06.5259
EX. PIPE SPHERICAL SEATINGandover-norton.co.uk
Andover Norton - SEAL WASHER (06.3253) (NMT2166) - 06.3995
SEAL WASHER (06.3253) (NMT2166)andover-norton.co.uk
Thanks for the pic although it's hard to make out much, but makes for a nice abstract.
That's probably because I get the watermark on the photo until I upgrade my account to a premium one.
If it came with an on off toggle in the oil feed line and if it is not wired into the ignition feed then you better have the best memory in the world to always turn it on. Or else take it out.
Yes the photos not the best.
