1975 Commando 850 restoration

It's a Mk3 no? If using OEM plates I'd stay dry........
(I've just pulled my clutch after a good few years of inattention.. New cable, plates washed and dry install, and the first change was frighteningly silent, neutral has reappeared at standstill too :-) )
 
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Larry S said:
I’m planning on installing my clutch plates tomorrow and would like to know if I should install them dry or soak them in 20/50 oil?
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The original bronze friction plates shouldn't need soaking in oil if they're what you are installing now one plate has been used to make a holding tool.
 
L.A.B. said:
The original bronze friction plates shouldn't need soaking in oil if they're what you are installing now one plate has been used to make a holding tool.
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I’m going to install new Barnett plates. Soak or no soak? My ignorance knows no bounds.
 
Larry S said:
I’m going to install new Barnett plates. Soak or no soak? My ignorance knows no bounds.
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Yes, I believe Barnett recommends soaking their friction plates in ATF, however, that would be for when ATF is used in the primary case as that is now the generally preferred lubricant for primary chaincases (although it wasn't originally) with the possible exception of the 850 Mk3 because owners have found that the Mk3's hydraulic primary chain tensioner doesn't work well with ATF (too thin?) so I suggest you soak them in 20W/50 if that is the oil you intend to use in the primary chaincase.
 
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Thanks for the fast reply. My dad called me and said basically the same. Love this forum.
L.A.B. said:
Yes, I believe Barnett recommends soaking their friction plates in ATF, however, that would be for when ATF is used in the primary case as that is now the generally preferred lubricant for primary chaincases (although it wasn't originally) with the possible exception of the 850 Mk3 because owners have found that the Mk3's hydraulic primary chain tensioner doesn't work well with ATF (too thin?) so I suggest you soak them in 20W/50 if that is the oil you intend to use in the primary chaincase.
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Progress. Got all the innards tucked away in the inner primary. Soaked my clutch plates in 20/50 Castrol GTX, drained and semi dried. All installed nicely. Adjusted my clutch rod as per specs. Rod just touching actuator and then backed off one turn and locked in. I'm loving working on this bike!
 

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Thanks for sharing the enthusiasm. We did our teardown of the clutch a couple years ago. Followed the same reccommendations of seasoned norton vets. The clutch has performed flawlessly for two summers now. Keep going!
 
Installing my head steady the manual says to use the forward hook for the spring. When I disassembled the head steady it was on the rear hook. My concern is that the spring is almost touching the frame tube and I am wondering if I should use the rear hook to gain more clearance. I'm pretty sure I've got the spring oriented the correct way, at least that is the way the parts breakdown shows. Thoughts, comments?
 

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Larry S said:
Installing my head steady the manual says to use the forward hook for the spring. When I disassembled the head steady it was on the rear hook. My concern is that the spring is almost touching the frame tube and I am wondering if I should use the rear hook to gain more clearance. I'm pretty sure I've got the spring oriented the correct way, at least that is the way the parts breakdown shows. Thoughts, comments?
Click to expand...
Go with Glen's [worntorn] method described in the first post linked below.

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/isolastic-ptfe-washer-wear.29252/
 
Larry S said:
Installing my head steady the manual says to use the forward hook for the spring. When I disassembled the head steady it was on the rear hook. My concern is that the spring is almost touching the frame tube and I am wondering if I should use the rear hook to gain more clearance. I'm pretty sure I've got the spring oriented the correct way, at least that is the way the parts breakdown shows. Thoughts, comments?
Click to expand...

I think perhaps you are jumping the gun attempting to set the spring at this stage before the bike is on its wheels and almost fully built.
One thing I would suggest is to move the head steady as far forward on the head as possible.
 
L.A.B. said:
I think perhaps you are jumping the gun attempting to set the spring at this stage before the bike is on its wheels and almost fully built.
One thing I would suggest is to move the head steady as far forward on the head as possible.
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Point taken on jumping the gun. Other than moving the head steady as far forward as possible, is everything else correct?
 
L.A.B. said:
Yes, and the front hook position is the one I use to get correct spring adjustment (although it's a Tayor head steady).
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Thank you. I’ll move the head steady forward and leave the final adjustments for a proper time.
 
Moved the head steady as far forward as possible and now the gap between the spring and frame looks acceptable. Thanks L.A.B.
 

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