where do you mount your Boyer?

Boyer Electronic Ignition that is.
Bike is 1975, I'd sure like a picture of where you put it and how it is connected to the frame. My bike was purchased as a work in progress. PO had basically just zip tied it right behind the coil mount as a temporary mounting while wiring. I moved it so I could install the head steady piece that holds the spring that attaches to the main headsteady part on the head. Also does it need to have some sort of shock proofing? Like a piece of rubber inner tube wraped around it?
Thanks! Its been fun so far! The bike is somewhere in the 75% complete area, however I am back tracking to be sure the prior work was complete. I'm just not taking anything for granted. So far most everything has been first rate. My main items to finish are the wiring, stripped down to just a couple of wires, no signals or handlebar switches, idiot lights or any of the 1975 console lights, there is no console, the PO did it this way, I'm just leaving for now. then some re-constructive work on the rear brakes, there isn't one(!) and a few more odds and ends. then I will be ready to start the never before started brand new rebuilt engine, can hardy wait for that day!!!
Kurt

Well, I mounted the Boyer (from previous owner) in a trash can! However, he had it zip-tied to the underside of the top tube with a foam pad between it and the tube and it had been there for some years and around 20k miles. I have seen mounting brackets/plates for them; I think Old Britts sells one.

Wrap it in rubber, and leave it loose in the obvious position never had any problems many miles many years.

cheers

When my MkIII had a Boyer*, it was fitted to the underside of the coil bracket between the coils where the ballast resistor and 2CP condenser pack would normally be fitted. I don't believe the Boyer box needs to be rubber mounted, but I always like to isolate a box with a piece foam rubber.

*(My MkIII now has a Tri-Spark Classic Twin ignition, so there's no box)

mine was ziptied to the frame in the triangle where the brace meets the backbone...the tank keeps it dry

I also cut open a beer cozy/cooler foam thing and wrapped the box in it before zip tieing it to the top tube - a little shock absorption never hurts!

I also cut open a beer cozy/cooler foam thing and wrapped the box in it before zip tieing it to the top tube - a little shock absorption never hurts!

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A section of foam pipe insulation works great too. And then you don't have to drink your beer warm! :lol:

L.A.B. said:

When my MkIII had a Boyer*, it was fitted to the underside of the coil bracket between the coils where the ballast resistor and 2CP condenser pack would normally be fitted. I don't believe the Boyer box needs to be rubber mounted, but I always like to isolate a box with a piece foam rubber.

*(My MkIII now has a Tri-Spark Classic Twin ignition, so there's no box)

Click to expand...

I like that spot.
Thanks!

pelican said:

mine was ziptied to the frame in the triangle where the brace meets the backbone...the tank keeps it dry

Click to expand...

That's where mine was for 25 years too.

Originally mine was stuck to the front/top area of the battery tray area, where the old airfilter box was. Previous owner glued the Boyer box toa piece of foam rubebr, then that was glued to the top of the battery tray. It was ugly for sure.

Now that I've moved on to a Tri-Spark I don't heave to deal with a little black box any longer.

I wouldn't wrap the blax box fully, it needs ambient cooling.

The hollow area inside the coil mount is a good location to allow good cooling airflow.

grandpaul said:

I wouldn't wrap the blax box fully, it needs ambient cooling.

The hollow area inside the coil mount is a good location to allow good cooling airflow.

Click to expand...

Would you wrap it or put a piece of inner tube on one side? I figure if I just wrap in but still leave the front open some air will pass. Enough? I'm also wondering about vibration.

I unpotted my Boyer box of black plasticky goo and there really is nothing in there to vibrate as long as the potting material is present. The stuff is like the old "Turkish Taffy" but black. I wrapped mine a couple wraps in an old inner tube with the front and back open and put it under the main tube with a big ty-wrap and it is still that way. It is the potting shell you need to protect from vibration. It is brittle and thin and mine had a small piece missing from the side but it won't affect operation. Maybe some big stick-on rubber feet top and bottom would allow you to wedge it in there for better cooling.

Heat rising up from my engine while idling in traffic on a hot day made my early 1974 Boyer leak out a bit of goo so that's why I eventually re-did it (way too much work but it was fun). I refilled it with some modern 2-part hi tech flexible stuff that we use at work for potting high voltage modules. The new potting material is a reddish orange in color. Somewhere I read that Boyer is also using an improved material now.

O/k, it is filthy. Working on it now. Bloody wiring!

kwb210 said:

L.A.B. said:

When my MkIII had a Boyer*, it was fitted to the underside of the coil bracket between the coils where the ballast resistor and 2CP condenser pack would normally be fitted. I don't believe the Boyer box needs to be rubber mounted, but I always like to isolate a box with a piece foam rubber.

*(My MkIII now has a Tri-Spark Classic Twin ignition, so there's no box)

Click to expand...

I like that spot.
Thanks!

Click to expand...

I mounted mine there, too. Since the condenser and ballast resistor are gone, it fits nicely in there. A little Velcro on one side (I mounted it vertically) and a zip-tie through the old condenser mounting holes - done!

Not a Boyer though........

Keith1069 said:

Not a Boyer though........

Click to expand...

If you've never cruised through Keith Photobucket Album, you should. Very fascinating. And I so want to make a headsteady just like his.