What's wrong with this (Clutch) picture? (2012)

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Thanks. Having experienced a failure in the tensioner plungers and what that did to the starter sprag, I'll play safe and stick with 20w50.
 
Which Royal Purple are you using?

The one that Jim recommended (HPS) is not suitable for wet clutches…

IIRC the best clutch friendly oil according to his tests was Bel Ray V Twin Synthetic.
 
API 20w50 synthetic. But just in the primary. I couldn't find HPS in the UK, only supply from US with high delivery and customs. Going to stick with Castrol GTX 20w50 Classic in the engine.
 
Mart UK said:
API 20w50 synthetic. But just in the primary. I couldn't find HPS in the UK, only supply from US with high delivery and customs. Going to stick with Castrol GTX 20w50 Classic in the engine.
Click to expand...
I’m not familiar with API 20w50. Are you quite sure it is wet clutch friendly? Highly likely that you’ll be enjoying clutch slip if not…
 
API could be anything, the latest specs are low Zinc and as Car not Motorcycle focused can have low friction additives that will ruin a clutch.

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The American Petroleum Institute (API) is the only national trade association that represents all aspects of America’s oil and natural gas industry. Our more than 600 corporate members, from the largest major oil company to the smallest of independents, come from all segments of the industry.
www.api.org www.api.org
 
Fast Eddie said:
Which Royal Purple are you using?

The one that Jim recommended (HPS) is not suitable for wet clutches…

IIRC the best clutch friendly oil according to his tests was Bel Ray V Twin Synthetic.
Click to expand...
Why would you want the same oil in your primary and the engine?
Totally different requirements.
One of the advantages (IMHO) of non-unit construction is having oils to suit their purpose.
  • Engine needs certain additive to save cams/followers
  • Gearbox has different requirements for loaded/sliding gears
  • Primary has to consider friction clutch (& hydraulic tensioner (MkIII) - or go belt & dry!
Can't understand any push to use same oil - just buy a triumph!
Cheers
 
robs ss said:
Why would you want the same oil in your primary and the engine?
Totally different requirements.
One of the advantages (IMHO) of non-unit construction is having oils to suit their purpose.
  • Engine needs certain additive to save cams/followers
  • Gearbox has different requirements for loaded/sliding gears
  • Primary has to consider friction clutch (& hydraulic tensioner (MkIII) - or go belt & dry!
Can't understand any push to use same oil - just buy a triumph!
Cheers
Click to expand...

Well I tend to agree, which is why I’d use something like the Bel Ray Sport as that is designed for gearboxes AND primary drives with wet clutches.

The main reason for suggesting it in this thread is the topic of the pushrod seal… if the gearbox and primary use the same oil, and if that oil is wet clutch friendly, then there is no need to worry about dribbles of ‘contamination’.

However, if you want to really be specific about it, Bel Ray (and others) do sell specific gear oil and specific primary drive oil.
 
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