What's wrong with this (Clutch) picture? (2012)

It sounds as if the spacer 06.0747 is the wrong way around.

L.A.B. said:

Just a thought, but one possible reason for the apparent lack of thread length could be the clutch location spacer '15' fitted the wrong way so the recess is not on the circlip side (which would also put the primary sprockets out of alignment). Again, just a possibility, that's all, unless you know that it was fitted correctly.

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OK. I don't know. I've only been as far as the bearing circlip. I'll have to check. Thanks.

IIRC I have the full complement of washers/locking tabs etc.... (I know... me bad!) and had to give the seal a couple of passes over emery cloth to ensure it didn't bottom out prematurely on my Mk3. But it wasn't major surgery....

Thanks.
To remove that spacer, do I need to undo the front end (rotor, etc.) and take off the chain?

Mart UK said:

Thanks.
To remove that spacer, do I need to undo the front end (rotor, etc.) and take off the chain?

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Been a while since I've pulled the clutch but I'm sure it all has to come off.... And if it is AAF then chainwheel alignment will need addressing too...

That's what puzzles me. The chainwheel looks aligned currently.

"3. You may reduce the depth of the clutch seal down to .120” by grinding or filing.
Typically .140” is actually exactly two threads of engagement.

4. Last, you can grind down the thickness of the clutch center nut 060895 (04373) which is .375/.383” thick. Thinner than .350" would not be typical."

Yes, thanks. Step 4, I don't think 0.033" will be enough. The end of the nut currently sits at the end of the thread, with nothing to engage the seal. So, I would gain just 0.033" (0.383 - 0.350), or about 1/2 a thread (from step 3., 0.140" = 2 threads, so 0.033" = almost half a thread). Something must be incorrect.

I just re-read the manual section C34. I guess it is possible the spacer is in wrong. I don't recall removing these parts, but it was about 10 months ago. I removed at least as far as the clutch chainwheel, to replace the primary chain. I wouldn't have gone further than I needed to, to get to that stage, unless i also removed the bearing to clean it. That's possible, but I can't remember. But I was really careful with reassembly. Double and triple checking against the manual, which is clear on which way round it goes. So, for now, I can't see I erred. Not unheard of though!

I don't know the depth of the spacer's machined recess. I guess it could be 1/8" / c.0.140". How obvious would 1/8" run out be on the chainwheel. I would have thought I'd pick that up. I recall using a steel ruler across the 2 faces, double and triple checking and being OK with it. The chain looked central on the wheel / front sprocket, when I checked at the weekend.

It's back together right now. I plan to go a short ride to warm it up and test the clutch slip with new plates. I'll see how I go. If not happy, I'll dismantle to the spacer and check.

If you can’t get the seal to fit, use Bel Ray Sport transmission fluid in the gearbox. It’s a really good gear oil and is wet clutch compatible so won’t matter a jot if dribbles into the primary.

I will try that. Thanks.

Just did 30 miles. The new and initially oil free clutch was perfect. Goes like the clappers over 5,000 revs. Not my usual territory, but for test purposes

Thanks. Not supposed to use ATF in the mk3 primary, due to the chain tensioner system. But a little weeping from the gearbox into the 20w50 in the primary, ought to be OK? Might give that a try.


A lot of motor cars use engine oil in there gearboxes.

ludwig said:

Or make this:


25 mm long, from an old valve stem.
O-ring from Amal set screw.
Shorten the push rod and place a 6mm bearing ball between the 2 parts.

Cheaper, neater, less clutter and a perfect seal:

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Thanks Ludwig, that's a neat idea.

I've ordered the Bel Ray for the gearbox (compatible with wet clutches). I use Castrol Classic 20w50 in the primary. I'm coming up to a service, so will swap from Castrol Classic, which I read yesterday is not compatible with wet clutches, to <<drum roll>> Royal Purple, which claims it is.

Mart UK said:

I've ordered the Bel Ray for the gearbox (compatible with wet clutches). I use Castrol Classic 20w50 in the primary. I'm coming up to a service, so will swap from Castrol Classic, which I read yesterday is not compatible with wet clutches, to <<drum roll>> Royal Purple, which claims it is.

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The Bel Ray Sport is good in the gearbox and primary …

It’s wot it was designed for.

Mk3 primary?

Mart UK said:

Mk3 primary?

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Dunno but I don’t see why not.

Folk put all sorts of oil in em. It’s just ATF that’s no good as I understand it.

Bel Ray Sport isn’t ATF.

Yep, just wondering about the viscosity being sufficient for the hydraulic arrangement in the tensioners. It arrives Saturday, so I can see.

Mart UK said:

Yep, just wondering about the viscosity being sufficient for the hydraulic arrangement in the tensioners.

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"SAE 110W"

Is that the same weighting system as 20w50, I.e. 50 vs. 110? Seems a bit thick.

Mart UK said:

Is that the same weighting system as 20w50, I.e. 50 vs. 110? Seems a bit thick.

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I don't know. I'd guess it's gear oil viscosity.