What year/model? What am I missing?

Roadholder Forks | Norton Owners Club

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fiatfan

Thread 'Long and short roadholders?'

Since I´m tryin´ to put a fork together from nothing, I´m searchin´ the net for parts. And I´ve realized that I´m not up to date with the terminology here :? . What is the long/short roadholder about? Was any of them on a Commando? I mean that fork was called roadholder.
Tommy

B

Thread 'IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT NORTON FORKS:'

IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT NORTON FORKS:
1. Featherbed frames used 3 types of yokes for solos;
(a) 7" stanchion centres, all 26 tpi
(b) 7.3/8" stanchion centres, 26 tpi, introduced in 1964
(c) 7.3/8" stanchion centres, 28 tpi, introduced in 1968
As all the above can be interchanged the year of manufacture can only be used as a guide.

2. Norton/Matchless hybrids of the mid '60's used longer 'Short Roadholder' forks. The main
difference is the fork seal holder, our part no.
3.1968-70 Commando models use featherbed type (c) yokes. These have the column nuts
above the headstock, the later models...


 
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macvittiemotorcycles said:
Good to know. Thank you. Let me know if you find the drawing, ill do some searching.

My early cradle doesn't have oil filter holes as the early models did not have an oil filter (at least thats my understanding, this is my first Norton)
Click to expand...
Is this the drawing you're referring to for the center stand hole? SO I would reference this for drilling

B+Bogus

Post in thread 'Centre Stand I don't have holes?'

When I completed my Engineering Apprenticeship I worked in a machine shop manufacturing truck & bus components - the machines were imperial and the drawings were metric.
As all the components had originally been designed in Imperial the conversions were generally straightforward....

Anyway, I couldn't help noticing that no-one has really answered the question...
I measured up a cradle and got this:
Note that the drawing originally showed where to drill the holes for the oil filter housing - something else to consider?
I know I would :wink:

Centre Stand I don't have holes?


The datum is taken perpendicular...
 

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Not a good drawing. There should be one datum point, ideally center of S/A pivot. Neither second bolt hole for the filter nor center stand mounting have defined X coordinates. This should be added.
X and Y coordinates from datum point to the tube for the Isolastic mounting needs to be specified as it defines the coordinate axes. Engine bolt holes at cradle should not be used for referencing as they may become oval.

- Knut
 
It's just a collar with the with the ID the same as the OD on the spindle shaft. I ordered the one with the flat, as I thought it was easier to drill the set screw. I got them from Mcmastercarr , sorry I don't remember the part number.
 

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side loading on the rear wheel and thus the swingarm causes the swingarm pivot to "wiggle" in the tube containing it which leads to wear and poor handling. The clamps are the common fix to prevent the swingarm pivot from movement.
rvich

Post in thread 'Kegler Clamps Fitment'

The bushings are sintered bronze. New ones should be soaked to permeate them with oil. The discussion about what oil to use is endless. Judging by the average ages here, most of us won't live long enough to find out if we were right! I personally think the felt pads and welch plugs were a big advancement as to holding the oil.

To answer jbruney, side loading on the rear wheel and thus the swingarm causes the swingarm pivot to "wiggle" in the tube containing it which leads to wear and poor handling. The clamps are the common fix to prevent the swingarm pivot from movement.



images
 
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The essence of the need for the Kegler clamps for early bikes (like my '70) comes from the early design only having a single center bolt holding the swingarm axle in the tube of the cradle. It doesn't take long for the lateral forces on the wheel to deform the cradle tube, so even though the bushings where the swingarm pivots is tight, the play develops in the axle tube and the bike feels like a snake going down the road. I had this handling issue and chased it for probably a decade. When a certain Norton devotee used to tell me how a commando out handled bikes of it's era easily, I just thought he was full of shit. He had no clue about how the early model swingarm tube deformed and no clue about the repair solution and so I remained in the dark and rode my "snake bike" and just lived with the wiggle.

Eventually, I found this website and saw the diagnosis and the cure. My bike handles great now. LIke Nortster, I made my Kegler clamps by modifying a set of clamps from the Mcmaster-Carr supply company, but you can buy them ready to go from NYC norton now. You still have to drill the swingarm tube for the set screw and I also dimpled the axle ever so slightly to cradle the set screw,... but don't drill it too deep. (OR you can get the late model swingarm axle which has a flat machined on them and line the clamp installation with the 2 flats on the axle...
 
napanorton

Post in thread 'Heinz Kegler's Swingarm Rings'

I used these from McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#2380k28/=9h0kj0

They are 1 1/8" Shaft collars. I then drilled and tapped 1/4 - 28 holes and milled a flat.

nycnorton.com

Swingarm Spindle Kit

Over the years of riding our silky smooth Commandos the torsional loads transmitted to the Isolastic-mounted engine cradle from the swingarm creates a worn sloppy spindle bore, resulting in vague, imprecise handing. Infamous Berliner staffer Heinz Kegler came up with a very simple yet elegant...
nycnorton.com nycnorton.com
 
Finally had time to crack the cases.

Camshaft is shot as another member mentioned earlier. Are all camshafts the same for 750s and 850s or does my year engine require a “combat” camshaft?
 
L.A.B. said:
No, your 1970 model would not have had a Combat camshaft originally. The 1970 camshaft would have been the end breather type.
Click to expand...
Thanks. The breather type has the spring in one end and the spacer in the other correct?

www.ebay.com

1971 VINTAGE NORTON COMMANDO 750 MOTOR CAMSHAFT | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1971 VINTAGE NORTON COMMANDO 750 MOTOR CAMSHAFT at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
 
crank has also seen better days but I think a balancing at a machine shop would clean it up
 

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macvittiemotorcycles said:
crank has also seen better days but I think a balancing at a machine shop would clean it up
Click to expand...
If the journals are good, then a cleaning is all you need. Of course, you can have it balanced but there's not a lot of reason to do so for a street bike. You do need to separate and clean it out since you probably have no oil filter and therefore have sludge inside. To do that you need a new stud/nut set.
 
marshg246 said:
If the journals are good, then a cleaning is all you need. Of course, you can have it balanced but there's not a lot of reason to do so for a street bike. You do need to separate and clean it out since you probably have no oil filter and therefore have sludge inside. To do that you need a new stud/nut set.
Click to expand...
Forgot to mention - be sure to mark it so it goes back together the same way - if the flywheel (center) is reversed the balance will be wrong.

Also, incase you don't know, you can reuse the conrod bolts but must use new nuts.
 
At this point I’m trying to consider what I can get away with reusing and what to replace.

As I look for a cam replacement- Any experience with Hepolite cams?
www.classicbritishspares.com

Norton Commando Replacement Camshafts (1) - Choose Camshaft Type

Replace your old and worn camshaft with this new part manufactured by Andover Norton. Replaces part number 06-1084 for 750 and 850 Norton Commandos from 1969-75.
www.classicbritishspares.com www.classicbritishspares.com

Inspecting the crank and rods. Crank journals look good. Rod bearings look ok? What do you think.

The rods themselves are ok with slight surface scratching throughout. Ok to use?

Oil feed and return piece. Is this pipe supposed to be able to come out of the body?

Might as well change the cam bushings while it’s apart? Tricks to getting this removed? I had heated up the cases in the BBQ to quite hot for 40 minutes and the outer bearing races fell out but the bushings didn’t budge.
 

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macvittiemotorcycles said:
At this point I’m trying to consider what I can get away with reusing and what to replace.

As I look for a cam replacement- Any experience with Hepolite cams?
www.classicbritishspares.com

Norton Commando Replacement Camshafts (1) - Choose Camshaft Type

Replace your old and worn camshaft with this new part manufactured by Andover Norton. Replaces part number 06-1084 for 750 and 850 Norton Commandos from 1969-75.
www.classicbritishspares.com www.classicbritishspares.com

Inspecting the crank and rods. Crank journals look good. Rod bearings look ok? What do you think.

The rods themselves are ok with slight surface scratching throughout. Ok to use?

Oil feed and return piece. Is this pipe supposed to be able to come out of the body?

Might as well change the cam bushings while it’s apart? Tricks to getting this removed? I had heated up the cases in the BBQ to quite hot for 40 minutes and the outer bearing races fell out but the bushings didn’t budge.
Click to expand...
macvittiemotorcycles said:
At this point I’m trying to consider what I can get away with reusing and what to replace.

As I look for a cam replacement- Any experience with Hepolite cams?
www.classicbritishspares.com

Norton Commando Replacement Camshafts (1) - Choose Camshaft Type

Replace your old and worn camshaft with this new part manufactured by Andover Norton. Replaces part number 06-1084 for 750 and 850 Norton Commandos from 1969-75.
www.classicbritishspares.com www.classicbritishspares.com

Inspecting the crank and rods. Crank journals look good. Rod bearings look ok? What do you think.

The rods themselves are ok with slight surface scratching throughout. Ok to use?

Oil feed and return piece. Is this pipe supposed to be able to come out of the body?

Might as well change the cam bushings while it’s apart? Tricks to getting this removed? I had heated up the cases in the BBQ to quite hot for 40 minutes and the outer bearing races fell out but the bushings didn’t budge.
Click to expand...
You're joking, right?


What year/model? What am I missing?


If you're NOT joking, (with no disrespect intended) you are way in over your head.
 
macvittiemotorcycles said:
At this point I’m trying to consider what I can get away with reusing and what to replace.

As I look for a cam replacement- Any experience with Hepolite cams?
www.classicbritishspares.com

Norton Commando Replacement Camshafts (1) - Choose Camshaft Type

Replace your old and worn camshaft with this new part manufactured by Andover Norton. Replaces part number 06-1084 for 750 and 850 Norton Commandos from 1969-75.
www.classicbritishspares.com www.classicbritishspares.com

Inspecting the crank and rods. Crank journals look good. Rod bearings look ok? What do you think.

The rods themselves are ok with slight surface scratching throughout. Ok to use?

Oil feed and return piece. Is this pipe supposed to be able to come out of the body?

Might as well change the cam bushings while it’s apart? Tricks to getting this removed? I had heated up the cases in the BBQ to quite hot for 40 minutes and the outer bearing races fell out but the bushings didn’t budge.
Click to expand...
I always change the big end shell - they are not expensive.

The conrads are fine - polish out the scratches.

Only change the drive side cam bushing if is definitely bad - not easy to do! If you change the timing side, use the MKIII type 06.5428 (two required). Be prepared to hone them. They come as the right size but installing can slightly mushroom them and they don't always align perfectly and bind the cam.

Unless someone asks for something else. I always use Hepolite chilled cast iron cams. IMHO, the price you found is over $100 too much.
 
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