What year/model? What am I missing?

You're joking, right?


View attachment 118619

If you're NOT joking, (with no disrespect intended) you are way in over your head.
First Norton. Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it was a but the shell is smooth. Just minor discoloration from the crank sitting in the same position for 20 years. If you could provide a helpful comment that would be appreciated.
 
First Norton. Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it was a but the shell is smooth. Just minor discoloration from the crank sitting in the same position for 20 years. If you could provide a helpful comment that would be appreciated.
If your journals have a good surface and are round replacement of the shells is a good idea - they are not that expensive. Forgive me if I am telling you what you may know but if your crank journals need to be ground then that will influence the size of the new shells .
 
First Norton. Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it was a but the shell is smooth. Just minor discoloration from the crank sitting in the same position for 20 years. If you could provide a helpful comment that would be appreciated.
I have nothing helpful.


Other than, if you can see three layers of bearing material, you may want to replace them.

2E3F8157-45CD-460A-B861-A1DC06335FE3.jpeg


"I have rebuilt many motorcycles, Harley’s and triumphs, but this is my first Norton."


"Rod bearings look ok? What do you think."

"Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it was a but the shell is smooth. Just minor discoloration from the crank sitting in the same position for 20 years."


This is not Norton specific.

Triumph
Chevy
Mopar
Ford
Yamaha
Toyota
Suzuki
MG
Jaguar
Mack
Cummins
Detroit
Kawasaki
BSA
Etc
 
Last edited:
The best thing you can do is post pictures of stuff and ask, "What should I do?" or "Is this junk or can I reuse it?" The main group here knows their shit. In the long run they will save you time and money because you'll do shit right the first time....

Essentially, You don't worry about getting a new haircut before you get that heart transplant that you desperately need...

So, start with the bottom end. That's the heart of the machine. The bottom is the crankshaft, the camshaft, the connecting rods, the main bearings and the crankcase halves... Concentrate on getting that correct and together...

Connecting rods are machined with their dedicated end caps. Don't mix them up or spin them around...

If the journals are scored, then you need machine work to get the crank right. At the very least you would polish the journals if they are fine and buy new big end shells because they are cheap. (as Greg said) You need to get the journals good, clean out the sludge trap inside the cheeks of the crankshaft in case there is dirt or metal swarf in there that could ruin your new crank journals and big end shells within minutes of start up.. essentially get the heart of your engine taken care of first....

So, now you have the heart of your engine taken care of. Now you move to the camshaft since it's the next most important thing in the bottom end. You said it's trashed. Did you post a picture? I didn't see it.. A Norton is a "solid lifter" engine. Camshafts and followers are a weak points of these kind of engines in all brands of solid lifter vehicles, so both of those need to be checked before you assemble the bottom end. post pictures of both...

Once your camshaft and crankshaft are good, you are on your way to assembling a good bottom end.

Next you'll be inspecting the small end of the rods.. Are the wrist pins a tight sliding fit? hopefully so, because your connecting rods look pretty good (as Greg said) If your rods are both good, get your renewed bottom end together,... and you've just passed a major hurdle, The bottom end is solid...

Next you look at the barrels and pistons. Do the pistons have "+.020" or "+.040" etched into the top of them?? Do you have a bore gauge and a 3" micrometer to measure the bore for diameter and taper? how's the bore look visually? Post some pictures.... Your next goal after an assembled correct bottom end is pistons and barrels.... It's actually not very hard to get right....

Next you are on to the head which has to mate with the barrels, so you have to check them both for flatness before you assemble the barrels...

If your head is good to go, then your job is easy. If your head needs work, then you really have to know what you are doing to do it yourself....

Rather than continue on with more instruction that can be overwhelming for first timers.... just focus on getting the bottom end checked and assembled, then carry on.... HTH
 
Last edited:
Back
Top