Time for a Clutch

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installed the cNw "easy pull" clutch in my 74 - plug and play kit and it came with Barnett plates. very easy, 2-finger pull on the lever. cost a little extra, but IMO, well worth the money. no issues to date.
 
My clutch had always worked fine until I pulled primary cover to replace gasket. Put back together and filled with motorcycle oil and it slips pretty bad. Haven't taken back apart yet but assumed it may need plates. Think I'm using same oil but not sure. If plates are OK, what oil do you suggest?

That was the biggest problem with the Norton clutch, using motor oil even motorcycle oil is no good, ATF brand F is the best was designed for old Ford transmissions that had clutch plates inside, when I brought my Norton new GTX was the recommended oil to use and was no good for our clutch, so use ATF F as well never over fill with oil 7 FL OZ is all you need and don't overfill your gear box, if you do oil will migrate to your clutch.

Ashley
 
Regarding gearbox oil migrating to the clutch... if you use a gearbox oil that’s designed for use with a wet clutch, it shouldn’t matter.

Bel Ray V twin sport transmission fluid is such a product.

I got onto this when I had a 961, they have a Harley Sportster style set up whereby the primary and transmission share the oil. It seems to provide a nice smooth shift, so I use it as ‘standard’ in the shed these days even though I no longer have the 961.
 
I use RGMs Hi Torque bronze clutch plates from the UK. 9lbs pull on handlebar leaver = 1 finger to pull the clutch in and it does,nt slip. (perfect)

ELLIS
 
If the clutch worked fine before you did the work and now it doesn't, something was changed related to its operation. It didn't "wear out" during that maintenance! ;) As noted, most likely the oil you put in after the work does not agree with the clutch operation. So either put the same oil in that was there before if you can determine what it was or, as suggested, try ATF.
 
Regarding gearbox oil migrating to the clutch... if you use a gearbox oil that’s designed for use with a wet clutch, it shouldn’t matter.

Bel Ray V twin sport transmission fluid is such a product.

I got onto this when I had a 961, they have a Harley Sportster style set up whereby the primary and transmission share the oil. It seems to provide a nice smooth shift, so I use it as ‘standard’ in the shed these days even though I no longer have the 961.
Gl-4 safe? I couldn't really tell from the Bel-Ray site.
 
Gl-4 safe? I couldn't really tell from the Bel-Ray site.

I dunno.

What I do know is that with the Bel Ray I get leakage out of the clutch cable entry point, and I don’t with shockproof.

My hypothesis is that this shows better misting and searching properties of the Bel Ray, which are two good benefits.

It is also a noticeably smoother shift, which I assume is a good sign for lubricity.

All only a layman’s view and only circumstantial evidence. But I’m happy.
 
Yeah, but GL-4 is yellow metal safe, while GL5 isnt, which is why I asked.

Not arguing. Just saying I don’t know.

Do Harley’s have yellow metal in the gearbox or primary? That’s what the oil was designed for, so might be a good indicator.
 
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Gortniper, did you email their tech support line? If so please keep us posted if they respond.

I can’t see any info on this on their web either.

I do notice though that their “Gear Saver Hypoid Gear Oil” “meets or exceeds GL-4 and GL-5”... I thought this was an ‘either / or’ kind of thing and that it couldn’t be both?

Getting more confused the more I look...
 
Gortniper, did you email their tech support line? If so please keep us posted if they respond.

I can’t see any info on this on their web either.

I do notice though that their “Gear Saver Hypoid Gear Oil” “meets or exceeds GL-4 and GL-5”... I thought this was an ‘either / or’ kind of thing and that it couldn’t be both?

Getting more confused the more I look...
No I didn't. Just probing to see if you did! ;-)
 
I’ve asked them now, will see what they come back with.

However, I did notice they have an oil selector, and for ‘old‘ Commandos they actually recommend:

Will update if / when they reply...
 
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My clutch had always worked fine until I pulled primary cover to replace gasket. Put back together and filled with motorcycle oil and it slips pretty bad. Haven't taken back apart yet but assumed it may need plates. Think I'm using same oil but not sure. If plates are OK, what oil do you suggest?


If you use an engine oil in the primary it should have a JASO-MA designation on the container.
Ive been using Barnett plates and type F ATF. That works very well.

Glen
 
I hope this gets settled quickly because I'm always eager for something known to be proven better..... providing it doesn't entail a major overhaul.
 
Gl-4 safe? I couldn't really tell from the Bel-Ray site.

OK, short answer is yes, the Bel-Ray sport we are discussing is safe for yellow metals, as for the rest of the range, some are and some aren’t. Here’s the reply I got:

Good Morning Nigel,

Thank you for contacting us. The Bel-Ray V-Twin Sport Transmission Fluid is appropriate for use in transmissions that have soft yellow metals such as brass, bronze, or copper.

The Bel-Ray V-Twin Big Twin Transmission Oil and both of our Bel-Ray Gear Saver Hypoid Gear Oils (80W-90, 85W-140) are GL-5 gear oils.

The Bel-Ray V-Twin Sport Transmission Fluid, Gear Saver Transmission Oils (75W, 80W), and Thumper Gear Saver Transmission Oil 80W-85 are not GL-5 gear oils, and are suitable for use in motorcycle transmissions that have soft yellow metals.
 
I would have no problem with a squeaky belt drive, I just turn my hearing aid down:)

In cars you just turn the radio up and that fixes all engine noises, including exhaust. - You need to turn it down to speak to the cops.
 
Big turn around for the 80s. In those days it was “absolutely not” Barnett as they chew up the clutch center worse than the original plates eventually not wanting to release due to the notches.
 
Big turn around for the 80s. In those days it was “absolutely not” Barnett as they chew up the clutch center worse than the original plates eventually not wanting to release due to the notches.
In the 70's when my bike was new I inquired about Barnett plates at my dealer. The mechanic said they throw them into the woods like Frisbees. He blamed them for broken layshafts.
 
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