Thinking of going backwards brake-wise

A while back I added the CNW Brembo Mastercylinder to my Commando and I have posted on how impressive the stopping power and feedback are with that unit, an SS line, and Ferodo Platinum pads. The M cylinder change required different switching/levers, of course, all from CNW. The Brembo replaced my sleeved oem MCylinder (all other mods were in place with the oem cylinder). The sleeved oem MC was a big improvement over standard but the Brembo was dramatically better.

But now, as I look at my Fastback I find myself thinking I would rather have the look of the oem switchgear/MCylinder. The problem is that it's a big step backwards in brake performance and I'm wondering if there is anything further that can be done to a sleeved oem MC that will allow it to match the Brembo. Frankly (I'm no brake/hydraulic engineer), I don't really understand what makes the Brembo so much more effective. Is there any way to accomplish this?

Re-sleeve the re-sleeved m/c to closer match the Brembo and
get RGM's race lever with better pivot and longer lever, then
be careful working up its grip.

SS hose of course, but also might consider some grooves in rotor
similar to Gafier Wave rotors, for the extra edges encountered
which is where most friction developed. This not drilled
mass and cooling holes, though that can be done as well.

Fit a size less tire spinning mass to restrain.

hobot

I've read about an RGM brake lever for the oem master cylinder that is supposed to improve the action/feel of the brakes over the oem lever. Has anyone used this lever? Does it actually make any improvement?

With the master cylinder tiny restriction hole removed in rubber
valve plus the RGM lever - I find no other modification needed
to lock up front tire on good surface at will to almost hwy speeds
without excessive grip strength, yet ABS like action going
faster. I think I like it better than the sleeved m/c on Peel
as requires a bit less lever travel to get whoa you desire.

I highly recommend the RGM lever as first improvement to try.
Then remove factory drum brake mimicking restriction.
Then see if you care to spend a lot more for lesser further
gains in brake effort.

869 APCP2233 LOCKHEED RACING BRAKE LEVER, FITS NORTON, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED £ 40.70

hobot

hobot said:

Re-sleeve the re-sleeved m/c to closer match the Brembo and
get RGM's race lever with better pivot and longer lever, then
be careful working up its grip.

SS hose of course, but also might consider some grooves in rotor
similar to Gafier Wave rotors, for the extra edges encountered
which is where most friction developed. This not drilled
mass and cooling holes, though that can be done as well.

Fit a size less tire spinning mass to restrain.

hobot

Click to expand...

+1 re-sleeve to the same diameter as the Brembo.
I have a Magura 13mm that with the stock caliper, SBS pads, and SS lines was enough to send the front wheel sideways in the forks. Really needed a fork brace.

I have the racing lever fitted and it does add leverage.

Well, as I said originally, I have the brembo MC, SS lines, Ferodo platinum pads and the bike will match the braking of any modern bike with the same size front tire. But I want the oem MC to do the same thing so I can go back to the stock look. My sleeved oem MC with the same SS lines/pads is not even close to that sort of performance. I'll get one of those RGM levers, put the oem MC back on, and give that a try. Thanks

MexicoMike wrote:

I've read about an RGM brake lever for the oem master cylinder that is supposed to improve the action/feel of the brakes over the oem lever. Has anyone used this lever? Does it actually make any improvement?

Click to expand...

Contrary to the opinions expressed up to now, I had what I understand to be an RGM racing lever which came with the bike and did not like it. I found that on my master cylinder that the reach was too long for my fingers, and that as my fingers were almost straight when applying the brake, that I could not get the leverage. I put on an original MK3 brake lever (onto my sleeved RGM master) which has a much more curved profile and is not as straight and has brought the lever closer to the handlebar, and I can now easily get my fingers around the lever at 90* and I now just use two fingers to brake and can lock / make the front tyre squeal with ease.

Maybe I have womens hands :?: No offence intended for women...........as I quite like ........... :!:

Heck, maybe I should just leave the incredibly effective Brembo in place and quit worrying about that aspect of looking completely original. Heck, CNW bikes don't look completely original and nobody's complaining!

I'm not a fan of the CNW look (painted fenders, Corbin seat) at all but I do like hidden improved functionalility.

MexicoMike said:

Heck, maybe I should just leave the incredibly effective Brembo in place and quit worrying about that aspect of looking completely original. Heck, CNW bikes don't look completely original and nobody's complaining!

Click to expand...

Atta' boy. Better stop than stock, I say.

Hey Hobot, could you provide a bit more detail on your "remove the rubber thingy" advice? Please, at a "for dummies" level, so I can follow and hopefully implement. Thanks! - BrianK