New Brake Pads!

It's not realistic to expect the average rider to have a lathe.
I agree, That is where you are looking for people/companys that can do the job for you. I wonder sometimes if our NOC breatheren are worse off over the pond than we are here, due to the distances involved between where the people/facilitys are and yourself.
 
Even less realistic for the average machine shop to have a Blanchard grinder.
....and THAT was my point, back in post #44.

Inexpensive, effective modifications to improve performance.
Who remembers those days?
Who here has layed out the pattern , and then drilled their own discs on a simple drill press?


🏁😎
 
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It was interesting to find out how much Greg pays to get his discs ground.
I listed the prices on the TrueDisk web site. I have discount shipping and I normally send 2-3 disks at a time, so I pay quite a lot less than I posted. If there were a decent machine shop in my area, I am positive that they would charge WAY more and that would be turned, not ground. The last pair I sent was less than $120 total including shipping both ways for the grinding - I didn't have them drilled.
 
....and THAT was my point, back in post #44.

Inexpensive, effective modifications to improve performance.
Who remembers those days?
Who here has layed out the pattern , and then drilled their own discs on a simple drill press?


🏁😎
I have - used the mill on my Smithy but it is really a glorified drill press .
 
....and THAT was my point, back in post #44.

Inexpensive, effective modifications to improve performance.
Who remembers those days?
Who here has layed out the pattern , and then drilled their own discs on a simple drill press?


🏁😎
In the car world, drilled discs have fallen out of favour, they cause stress and cracking of the disc, so they are seen as a cosmetic alteration that reduces performance. Slots are the fashion now
 
In the car world, drilled discs have fallen out of favour, they cause stress and cracking of the disc, so they are seen as a cosmetic alteration that reduces performance. Slots are the fashion now
I understand the value of weight reduction but do holes or slots improve stopping power, fade, pad life, cooling, or anything else? Just asking, I have no clue
 
I listed the prices on the TrueDisk web site. I have discount shipping and I normally send 2-3 disks at a time, so I pay quite a lot less than I posted. If there were a decent machine shop in my area, I am positive that they would charge WAY more and that would be turned, not ground. The last pair I sent was less than $120 total including shipping both ways for the grinding - I didn't have them drilled.
Its a shame you don't live next door to me, the money you would save and the money i would make would be a great arrangement!
 
I understand the value of weight reduction but do holes or slots improve stopping power, fade, pad life, cooling, or anything else? Just asking, I have no clue
Hard to say for me - the braking is definitely improved but that is likely a combination of the grinding , sleeved MC, etc. I believe it to be marginally better in the wet but again this is subjective.
 
Its a shame you don't live next door to me, the money you would save and the money i would make would be a great arrangement!
It's a shame I live in the hellhole 8 miles from Washington DC :D

For instance, a clean frame and swingarm power coated 30 miles away - $600. Two filthy, greasy, grimy frames and swingarms powder coated 135 miles away - $250.

Local "machine shop", big lathe, big mill, et. Al. Install thread repair kits I provided for the three head studs - $80 - nice. Of course, all were crooked, head would not go on, and I had to beg Jim Comstock to save me since I didn't have a spare 850 head and I had a customer waiting.
 
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I understand the value of weight reduction but do holes or slots improve stopping power, fade, pad life, cooling, or anything else? Just asking, I have no clue
The intent of cross drilled rotors is to help the gases coming off the pads at high temp to escape, thus keep pad material in better contact with rotor surface. Advantage likely only going to be perceived at racing level operation. Some added cooling, some minor weight reduction. Stress cracks were a thing when drilling first appeared, but essentially eliminated by chamfering the holes a wee bit.
Slotting is similar effect, though likely helps clear contact area of dirt/water better.
Many performance shops sell slotted & drilled rotors for cars.
 
I understand the value of weight reduction but do holes or slots improve stopping power, fade, pad life, cooling, or anything else? Just asking, I have no clue
Tornado above has covered the main points, but modern pads don't give off the same gasses that earlier pads did, so the drilling has lost much of its original purpose. Performance shops sell drilled rotors because people want to buy them, they look good, but you won't find them on many seriously fast machines, slots are a much better option.
 
You mentioned a kitted re-sleeved master cylinder. I had two such MCs fail on my Commando. One occurred overnight in the garage - one day the brake worked fine, next morning, when I went to ride, the brake lever went to the bar. No leakage/MC had proper amount of fluid. The other occurred on the road. Worked fine at the first stoplight, but failed at the next stoplight - lever went to the bar/NO front brake. Same thing, MC was full/no leaks. In both cases the MC was re-sleeved by known suppliers of re-sleeved MCs. Based on my experience, I would never install/use a re-sleeved MC on any vehicle.

After that second experience (...Fool me twice, shame on ME!) I went with the CNW Brembo MC and the CNW adapter that allows fitment of the original switchgear. With Ferodo Platinum pads, rebuilt OEM caliper, new braided SS brake lines and DOT 4 fluid, the front brake stops/feels like a modern motorcycle (absent ABS, of course).
Your failed, resleeved M/C's were done by who? or whos resleeve kit was used? I've fitted loads of the RGM kits and never had a failure
 
There was in the UK and Europe a brake fluid called 'DOT 4 Compatible' we had complaints about it swelling seals to monstrous proportions. When I managed to get a container it was not actually DOT anything by specification, only claiming it was DOT 4 compatible.
Brake pad material, only this week we have had one manufacturer say they only test a certain pad material on cast iron as that is what it was developed for, personally I think the modern friction material seems to be a compromise over the old stuff with the nasties in it.
As for making the front wheel lighter, out of curiosity I weighed a TT100 against a Roadrider MK2 and the TT100 is 1Kg lighter - who'd thought that.
 
There was in the UK and Europe a brake fluid called 'DOT 4 Compatible' we had complaints about it swelling seals to monstrous proportions. When I managed to get a container it was not actually DOT anything by specification, only claiming it was DOT 4 compatible.
Brake pad material, only this week we have had one manufacturer say they only test a certain pad material on cast iron as that is what it was developed for, personally I think the modern friction material seems to be a compromise over the old stuff with the nasties in it.
As for making the front wheel lighter, out of curiosity I weighed a TT100 against a Roadrider MK2 and the TT100 is 1Kg lighter - who'd thought that.
That's interesting and thanks for doing that.
Add in different weights for tubes from standard duty to Extra Heavy Duty, it can get out there.
 
I replaced my front master cylinder , went with a braided SS hose and rebuilt the caliper when I upgraded to Foerodo Platinum pads. To me, going to DOT 5 brake fluid was a no brainer.
 
Ah, mystery solved about the C and F. That's a relief, I was a little worried that I'd have to send them back!
Funny about the actual part number too, I wanted to post a picture of the package, but every one I found said FDB88P which I thought was wrong, ha ha ha!

And what is this removing of the rotor's chrome? I have never heard of that, but I've seen it mentioned on this forum. Do you mean turning the rotor on a lathe? Mine do look "glassy" smooth. I would prefer a rough surface. If the "chrome" is removed, do they rust?

I have considered buying drilled rotors, but they seem way over priced! Is there an affordable source? I keep spending money in order to set this bike up right, but I'm not made of it, just another working guy!
Just solved the chrome rotor weakness on my T160.
Cheap as chips.
1288371E-D340-43FE-B6BF-37FA773BA4B2.jpeg


Masked & painted the centers/edges last eve, curing on the furnace overnight.
 
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Just solved the chrome rotor weakness on my T160.
Cheap as chips.View attachment 113742
I went for the drilled & lightened version on mine - still cheap as.
Did it make any difference? I seriously doubt it!
I can't say I noticed the change in the all-important un-sprung weight either.


On the subject of drilled/slotted discs, the latest motorsport trend is C-Hook grooves.
I fitted a pair to my previously plain disc equipped car and when braking from speed it sounded like a Lancaster Bomber on final approach :rolleyes:

 
I went for the drilled & lightened version on mine - still cheap as.
Did it make any difference? I seriously doubt it!
I can't say I noticed the change in the all-important un-sprung weight either.


On the subject of drilled/slotted discs, the latest motorsport trend is C-Hook grooves.
I fitted a pair to my previously plain disc equipped car and when braking from speed it sounded like a Lancaster Bomber on final approach :rolleyes:

New Brake Pads!
New Brake Pads!
 
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