The P11 thread

[p400]

Hi All,New to this forum as I have just purchased a P11.Need a few parts and was wondering the best place in the UK to get them from?Need the following:
Fork Internals - Front and Rear mudguards - Handlebars - Silencers - Clutch Plates - Coil Holder - Damper complete - ThrottleAny information would be helpful as I am finding it difficult to find out information on this bike!Many Thanks Ade

Hi Ade, Please post some photos of your project now, no matter if it is in boxes. Cheers Craig

 

[p400]

Pulled P11 head off, cylinders off, pistons out. Found engine had not been apart before, low hours/miles. Standard piston set cleaned up easily.
Part numbers stamped in piston tops (24282/24283), manufacture date B67, RH/LH, EX marked,
7 piece ring set on each piston - top, mid, 5 piece oil ring.

 

[Rohan]

Don't suppose you had a chance to weigh those pistons while they were out ?
Jist curious....

 

[p400]

I will report all weights later (piston, pin, rings, clips, etc), but if I remember, the initial weight of the alloy piston alone was 220gms.

 

[p400]

P11 engine out , more to come

 

[texasSlick]

@P400

Hang onto those dished pistons.....there are no more to be found!

Slick

 

[p400]

removing engine sprocket required a lot of fast heat . First try was propane shop torch with 3 jaw puller already tightened. no move!
Oxyacetylene rose bud tip applied fast heat and sprocket popped off.
This puller use required the small ends of the 3 puller jaws be ground off to provide clearance between sprocket and primary inner.
Is there a better puller tool for this app?

 

[Bernhard]

Yes, there is a kind of Norton heavy duty sprocket puller similar to your photo, but you may still need heat and a sharp hammer blow to break the taper.
See;
primary-side-engine-sprocket-removal-t5105.html

 

[p400]

Yes, there is a kind of Norton heavy duty sprocket puller similar to your photo, but you may still need heat and a sharp hammer blow to break the taper.
See; primary-side-engine-sprocket-removal-t5105.html

interesting, but having been faced with this before, if you don't have oxyacetylene you are wasting your time and ruining pieces with hammers.
It takes 5 seconds of fast high heat with moderate pressure on the puller.
Discussions of penetrating oil, hammers, and cranking up puller pressure.....wrong procedure.
Where is the primary sprocket puller tool pictured or listed ? Thank you
Further engine tear down requires an impact wrench 24732 LHD mainshaft driving worm & nut.
impact required on RHD thread cam nut 17211.
drive the roll pin out of the ignition sprocket.
I found the cam sprocket required use of a slide hammer to encourage it off.

 

[p400]

What tool is required or what procedure is needed to remove half time pinion?

 

[texasSlick]

What tool is required or what procedure is needed to remove half time pinion?

There is a special 3 jaw puller available, but I have had success using a 3 or 4 inch gear puller which had the jaw tips ground to a thin edge.

Slick

 

[p400]

What tool is required or what procedure is needed to remove half time pinion?

There is a special 3 jaw puller available, but I have had success using a 3 or 4 inch gear puller which had the jaw tips ground to a thin edge.Slick

Yes, I see a three jaw on ebay , quite a few.
I have a local Norton specialist with a tool, should be able to remove tomorrow.

 

[ADE SYM]

Hi All,New to this forum as I have just purchased a P11.Need a few parts and was wondering the best place in the UK to get them from?Need the following:
Fork Internals - Front and Rear mudguards - Handlebars - Silencers - Clutch Plates - Coil Holder - Damper complete - ThrottleAny information would be helpful as I am finding it difficult to find out information on this bike!Many Thanks Ade

Hi Ade, Please post some photos of your project now, no matter if it is in boxes. Cheers Craig

Hi

I will upload a few pictures in the next few days

The frame number is:

P111211119

I am led to believe that it is an early P11 but am unsure?

Can anyone tell me if this is the case as I would like to restore I back to how it should be and would like to know if this bike was the road version or off road?

Thanks Ade

 

[p400]

Hi All,New to this forum as I have just purchased a P11.Need a few parts and was wondering the best place in the UK to get them from?Need the following:
Fork Internals - Front and Rear mudguards - Handlebars - Silencers - Clutch Plates - Coil Holder - Damper complete - ThrottleAny information would be helpful as I am finding it difficult to find out information on this bike!Many Thanks Ade

Hi Ade, Please post some photos of your project now, no matter if it is in boxes. Cheers Craig

Hi I will upload a few pictures in the next few daysThe frame number is: P111211119 I am led to believe that it is an early P11 but am unsure? Can anyone tell me if this is the case as I would like to restore I back to how it should be and would like to know if this bike was the road version or off road?Thanks Ade

You would want to restore to early 67 cosmetics P11, all P11 were street equipped - lights/horn/battery. Early P11 had high pipes, alloy skid plate, alloy oil tank, delicate Lucas taillite/plate, polished alloy fenders, etc.

 

[p400]

Engine totally down, cases split, crank out, valves out, thanks To Chris Greenbacker expertise and tools.
Clutch centre not looking too good, lever slightly difficult to pull, neutral hard to find at times.
Thinking about complete new clutch, clutch balance issues. anyone balance a clutch assembly?

 

[Bernhard]

This clearly shows it has worn groves from the clutch plates, this will not help with the "smoothness of the clutch at all. I’ll bet the outer clutch wheel is not much better.
These can be carefully filed down back on both components with a file. I’ve done that before, if done carefully making them all the same, it just leave the clutch plates more room to give a more “backlash effect”
Also, if they are still serviceable file off any of the blurs on the clutch plates. HTH

 

[Bernhard]

Engine totally down, cases split, crank out, valves out, thanks To Chris Greenbacker expertise and tools.
Clutch centre not looking too good, lever slightly difficult to pull, neutral hard to find at times.
Thinking about complete new clutch, clutch balance issues. anyone balance a clutch assembly?

Very difficult to get the Norton clutch running concentric considering the rubber shock absorbers in the centre. You might get it running a little truer if you mount it on a mandrel in a lathe and use the tool post to try and “push” the inner clutch centre where it runs out.
Also check that the clutch pushrod is not bent, and the ball bearing has not worn oval.

Re "neutral hard to find at times."
When you have done all the above, adjust the freeplay on the clutch pushrod as per manual along with freeplay in clutch cable last .

 

[norton bob]

Hi The puller you show is of the type sold for Triumphs /Nortons, They don't usually fit the Norton easily without work, best get one from a Norton man, I would say that the clutch center has had it. Yes they can be improved with a lot of work. You could well need a clutch center puller (15$) , and an engine sprocket puller, (a proper 2 leg Norton puller is a great tool ,i have one) but are hens teeth now, Drill and tap the sprocket for a Commando puller or modify something , the sprockets can be very hard on the taper. Clutch drums wear better ,Steel plain plates need to be perfectly flat, When adjusting the clutch to lift evenly ignore the drum wobble and aim for even lift from pressure plate to drum.

 

[p400]

has anyone replaced the entire clutch assembly? Norvill 040478, I think it is about $525 right now.

Maybe even balanced this assembly?

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I see a similar clutch 04-0478 at Andover for $1050

Anyone use either?

 

[texasSlick]

has anyone replaced the entire clutch assembly? Norvill 040478, I think it is about $525 right now.

Maybe even balanced this assembly?

--------------------------------------------------------\

I see a similar clutch 04-0478 at Andover for $1050

Anyone use either?

For individual clutch part numbers see....http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/SI%20Clutch.htm

If your basket does not have worn sprocket teeth, the clutch center (040366), shock absorber center 040343 (spyder),and shock absorber rubbers (040386/7) may be all you need. I have found AMC Classsic Spares in the UK to have best prices. See http://www.amcclassicspares.com.

Barnett has friction plates for about $65

Slick